Northern Presidential Traverse, White Mountains, NH

September, 1998

We don't have the Rockies but a Presidential traverse in the fall has to rival some of the best hikes out there. A unique experience but a streanous one. A very long day to say the least.

I started this hike from the Dolly Cop Campground, about 4,5 miles south of Gorham, NH. It was a magnificent summer day even though it was late September. Warm, sunny, and no wind. I followed the Daniel Webster trail all the way up to the sumit of Mt. Madison. The trail itself was nothing of spectacular until it reaches tree line. From that point on it's something else. The last third is very steep and full of boulders. At some points the hiking turns to a scramble on all fours but nothing too serious.

The views are simply spectacular. Once you come up over the shoulder where the Daniel Webster meets the Osgood trail the Great Gulf just opens up right at your feet. Not too far up to your right is the summit of Madison. A quick stop and I'm on my way down the steep boulder field that leads to the Madison Hut. There, I take a break for lunch. It's roughtly 12:30 and time is catching up to me. I started a bit late (9:30), and if I want to make it all the way to Washington I better get moving. Do I have time to summit Mt.Adams? Sure, mine as well do it.

Another hour of careful rock and boulder steping and I reach the summit of Mt.Adams. Now the wind is blowing hard. At times I wobble and strugle to keep my balance. Can't spend too much time here either.

A short distance down the cone is Thunderstorm junction. Twice last winter I was forced to turn around at this point. It ain't happening again. I'm starting to feel a couple of burn spots under my feet. Nothing that a little molesking won't take care of. From here the going gets easier, but I still had to maneuver around two fairly large groups from Quebec. I still can't understand where's the fun in hiking with a large group. Maybe it's just me.

I follow the wide ridge all the way down to the saddle that seperates Mt.Jefferson and Mt.Sam Adams. Whem I reach the saddle I take another break. Things are much quieter in these parts. This is too far for the less experienced day hikers. I reacess my location and time. I might just make it before dark but I better get moving. And I'll skip going to the summit of Jefferson this time. I go around it and shave about 20 minutes off the hike.

Next up, the Monticello Lawn. Here the wind is blowing furiously. Up until now it's been just strong but now it picked up a notch. I put on my storm jacket and open my chest and arm pit zippers. It's not all that warm up here. The views are still magnificent. The Great Gulf right below to my left. To my right I can see as far as Vermont. Not too far ahead the Cog Railway trains blowing dark smoke all over the place, and just above it the summit buildings of Mt. Washington.

I still have to go over Mt. Clay. Don't really know why this one was considered a seperate peak. It's no more than a pimple on the ridge connecting Mt. Jeffereson to Mt. Washington. I take one last break here while sitting on a rock overlooking the huge wall of the Ravine. From here it's a quick walk up to the summit of Washington. I reach it just before 5 as the Ranger is announcing that there are only two more hours of sunlight and those planning on hiking down should have a headlight.

Here, I take a long break regardless of what the ranger said and the fact that I don't have a headlight with me. I buy a cup of hot chocolate and take a little rest while looking over the window admiring the beauty of the landscape. Then I put on my long underwear and at roughly 5:30 start my descent.

Right away I meet up with another hiker who had just done the same traverse. We hike down together. We pass another group of tourists from Quebec and in no time we're at the Hermit Lakes shelter, at the bottom of the ravine. One more little break before heading out for the last streach. It's getting dark now and we hike out the last half hour in complete darkness. We reach the parking lot just before 8PM.

If it seems that I rushed this hike it's because I did. I started slightly later than I wanted and needed to get to Pinkham Notch before dark so I wouldn't have a lot of trouble hitching a ride back to where I left my car. But regardless, don't let that fool you, it wasn't a run by any means and it was one of the greatest trips in the Whites.