Cill ala (Gaelic), population 713, is 7.5 miles/13 km north of County Mayo's largest town, Ballina, which has a population of 6,500. Killala is a quiet seaside fishing village overlooking Killala Bay at the mouth of the River Moy. The River Moy is reputed to be the best salmon fishing in all of Europe. Killala enjoys a disproportionate importance in Irish history, as it was where the French first invaded Ireland in 1798.

A 12th. Century round stone tower (84 ft./25 m high) is all that remains of the monastery founded by Saint Muiredoch, the first bishop of Killala, who was appointed by Saint Patrick in the 5th. Century.

Nine pubs do well in Killala, and the food is usually good, as is the music on the weekends. The Anchor Bar has very good seafood chowder and mussels. I recommend either Lynn's or Gilvarry's for a pint of Guinness.

Fitzgerald, P. and Kennedy, O., The Great Famine in Killala, 12/96.

Flangan, T., The Year of the French, 1979.

Langan-Egan, M., Women in Mayo 1821-1851, A Historical Perspective, Thesis in partial fulfillment of requirements for a Master Degree in Education, University College, Galway, Ireland, 08/86.

Munnelly, J., The French Invasion of Connaught, 1998.

Bishop Stock's 'Narrative,' 1798 of the Year of the French, Irish Humanities Center, Ballina, IE., 1982. 

Ballintober Abbey, about 4 miles south of Castlebar, Mayo's County Town, on N84, has it's roots in a pagan festival honoring the Celtic god Lug. Ballintober was dedicated to the Irish patron saint, and Cathal Grovdearg, King of Connacht, had an abbey built there in 1216 for the Augustinians. This abbey was restored between 1964 and 1966. It is the only abbey in Ireland where Mass has been celebrated without interruption since its foundation in 1216.

Westport (pop. 4,500) is perhaps my favorite town in all of Ireland. Situated on Clew Bay, it is quite cosmopolitan and supports several nice shops, restaurants and pubs. You might try M. J. Hobins, at the Octagon, on Friday and Saturday nights for traditional Irish music. Please tell Tommy Lyons and Rita "the Yank" says "hello." As for local fair, The Urchin or O'Gradys are two of my favorites.

Westport is an ideal base to tour Mayo's many attractions.

Clare Island, the largest of Clew Bay's 365 islands, was the home of pirate queen Gracy O'Malley. She is thought to be buried in the ruined Carmelite abbey founded by her family in 1224. Her island fortress is a massive square tower, overlooked by Mt. Knockmore and protected to the northeast by high cliffs. If you are spending a night or two on the island, the Clare Island Lighthouse offers unique and very comfortable accommodations, as well as excellent food. Those interested in visiting Clare Island can take a ferry from either Roonagh, south of Louisburgh, or Achill Island. Suggested Reading: for more information on Grace O'Malley see: Fairburn, Eleanor, The White Seahorse, Wolfhound Press, Dublin 1985.

About 5 miles south of Westport on Clew Bay, lies Croagh Patrick, also known as The Reek, (2,512 ft./765 m) Ireland's tallest mountain. It is said that it is from this vantage point St. Patrick drove all the snakes from Ireland. Each year, on the last Sunday of July, pilgrims from all over climb the rough path to the small chapel at the summit where they pray, hear Mass and receive Holy Communion. Some even make the climb bare-footed! Better plan on 4 hours to complete the hike. On a clear day the view at the summit is said to be breathtaking as all of Clew Bay's 365 islands can be seen. At the foot of Croagh Patrick lies a beautiful work, titled "Famine Ship," which is the Irish National Famine Memorial.

A trip beyond Croagh Patrick is very worthwhile. Pass through Louisburgh and turn left on the Leenane road (R335), take advantage of some of Ireland's most beautiful scenery. It gets off to a slow start, but along this road you'll find a memorial commemorating those who died during the famine near Doo Lough. Continuing your journey, you'll see beautiful lakes, streams and countryside. Just before Leenane, you'll come to Aasleagh Falls, where the River Eriff tumbles into the waters of Killary Harbour, definitely worth a photo or two. At the next intersection, N59 is a very scenic route back to Westport. But those brave enough (and have all the requisite vaccinations) to venture on into County Galway, I recommend continuing on to your right into Leenane and make the left turn (heading east) on R336, through the Maum Valley, towards Cong. You'll see more beautiful lakes and scenery. At Cong, explore the ruins of the old Abby and make sure you leave time for a short walk or two. While in Cong, you might want to visit Ashford Castle, where President Clinton stayed during a recent visit to Ireland. 

On August 21, 1879, Mary, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist appeared at the south gable of the Church of Knock. To their right, in the center of the gable, was a large plain altar. A lamb stood on the altar facing the west and behind the lamb stood a large upright cross. Angels hovered around the lamb for the 2 hours of the duration of the Apparition. Fifteen people witnessed the Apparition. The Catholic Church commissioned two separate inquires. The first, just weeks after the Apparition, and a second in 1936 where a witness gave testimony under oath on her deathbed. At the end of her statement she added "I am quite clear about everything I have said, and I make this statement knowing I'm going before my God."

In 1979, Pope John Paul II came as a pilgrim to Knock Shrine to honor it in it's centenary year. The Holy Father said Mass in front of about 500,000 pilgrims who gathered to welcome His Holiness to Knock Shrine, County Mayo, Ireland.

Achill Island is a must for those interested in magnificent scenery, Irish ruins, good food, and bog lands. From Westport, take the Newport Road (N59) north to Mulranny, then left on R319 to Achill Island.

Just before the bridge you'll see Alice's Restaurant. It was recently rebuilt and in my opinion much was lost in terms of ambiance, charm and views of the Island and of Achill Sound. Indeed, it was at great compromise they expanded their lounge and restaurant area, and built a hotel. The good news is the food is still superb, as is the Guinness.

If you arrive too early in the day they may not yet have their day's supply of mussels. Sometimes during low tide, you can watch the lads gathering the mussels off the rocks in Achill Sound and take them to Alice's.

Just a couple suggestions for the first timers to the Island.

After crossing the bridge onto Achill Island, take the left option at the "Y" (not at the church, but the next left turn) and follow the road around the Island and enjoy the old ruins of churches, castles, cemeteries and the unique beauty of Achill Sound. Please mind the sheep, they seem to have the right-of-way!

You'll wind your way along the narrow road and finally come to the Atlantic Ocean and see beautiful rock formations, pounding surf, tidal formations, cliffs and the like. Eventually you'll drive through some "high" hills and come to a couple of wide spots in the road. Stop, take some time and enjoy the awesome beauty of Achill Island. If one looks up toward the top of the hills, occasionally a subtle "wash board" effect is noticed. This is where the Islanders attempted to grow potatoes during the potato famine of the mid 1800's. The theory was the potato destroying fungus could not travel to Achill Island. This theory was tried, without success, on several of the islands off the Mayo coast.

Finally, you might notice a bog or two where the islanders harvest "turf" for use as heat and fuel in their homes and cottages. Turf is a very important fuel in Ireland, and is even used to fire an electric power generating plant in County Mayo. The smell of burning turf adds much to the ambiance of Ireland.

After a day of sight seeing, find a seat close to a turf fire in a good pub, relax, and treat yourself to a pint of Guinness while reflecting on the events and sights of the day (knowing full well I'm very envious.)