Colleen L. Jones  

Some one asked how to enlarge the bust area of a pattern.

I would be glad to discuss how to enlarge for a cup size on the list. If this is what you want. I will type it all out, and you can all follow along. what you will need is:

1. A pattern front which indicates where the bust point is (most patterns now have them it is a circle with a cross in it). This pattern should be a simple one -- not princess line, a simple shell would be great. Purchase the size by your bra band size, plus 2 inches.

2. Pencil.

3. Tape (repositionable if available),

4. Additional tissue paper (I like to use a color that way when I look at the
pattern I can see exactly what I have added where.

5. Ruler. (I like the clear plastic quilting rulers which are about 18 x 2 and
marked off in 1/8 inch increments.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

First lets look at the big picture here. Most pattern companies (V,B, Mc, S) design for a figure which is a "B" cup size. Burda usesa "C" cup size.

When enlarging for different cup size, two things change on the front bodice.

1. The width of the front bodice to accommodate the larger cup size, and

2. The length of the bodice to accommodate the larger cup size. Most people don't think of the length adjustment. To demonstrate this, look at a ready to wear (RTW) blouse while on your body. Does the center front of the blouse angle upward at the hemline, dragging the side seams forward with it? For most
blouses your answer will be yes. Your fuller bust has pulled the length it needs up from your hemline. You will see this in dresses, jackets, etc, too.

When we make a correction to a pattern, we will be adding fullness across the bust, and to the length of the garment as well. The length we will be adding
will be across the entire bodice front, and the excess we need to shape for the bust will be taken up in a dart from the side seam.

After you perfect the fit of this first bodice front with the dart on the side seam, It is a simple task to change the position of the dart to any other place on the front, such as from the shoulder, from the armhole, from the neckline, etc.

Remember perpendicular lines looks like this ____|____ and

parallel looks like this: ===========

OK, with that overview behind us, lets get started. First, trace a fresh copy of your pattern piece, marking the bust point, and indicating the seam lines
(aka stitching lines, usually 5/8 inch in from cutting line) on the armscye and the side seams. You need these seam lines to make accurate changes to the pattern.

1. Draw a horizontal line across the pattern which passes through the bust point, and is perpendicular to the center front. This line should go from center front, through the bust point, and out to the side seam. Mark the line as follows: Point "C" is where the center front and the line meet. Point "S" is where the Side seam and the line meet.

2. Draw a vertical line from the bust point down to the hem line. This line is perpendicular to the first drawn line and is actually parallel to the center front. Mark the place where the line meets the hem as Point "H."

3. The next point you will mark is subjective, and for a good fit, may take a few tries. you are going to be selecting a point on the armscye SEAM line
(very important--not the cutting line, the SEAM line) which is about where the dot (not the notch) usually is. This is referred to in the pattern drafting
trade as the midpoint on the armscye. I say this is subjective, because if you have a very full, prominent bust, you can choose a higher point closer to the
shoulder, and conversely, you can choose a lower point. Anyway, start with the mid point dot position, and mark this point "A."

4. Now, take your scissors and cut from point C (at center front), through the bust point, turn 90 degrees and follow the line down to point H at the hem
line. Take this piece away and hang onto it.

5. Cut from point "S" at the side seam TO BUT NOT THROUGH the bust point.   Leave a small tissue paper hinge about 1/16th of an inch wide here.

6. Cut from the bust point TO BUT NOT THROUGH point "A" which lies ON the armscye seam line.

7. Now you have this funny shaped cut up pattern. Take a deep breath, you are doing great so far. This is tough without pictures!!!!!

8. Take another full piece of paper the size of your pattern (larger actually) along with your graph paper and slip it under the pattern piece, the graph
paper should be centered at the bust point. Align one of the points of a square at the bust point. Tape the neckline and bodice front to the larger
paper. Do not tape the armscye below the dot, or the side seam at all.

9. Use this chart to calculate how much you need to add to the pattern: We will call this measurement "X" (This number will be explained later)

Measurement "X" Chart: (Updated 9/14/97)
From a B cup to a C cup is +3/8 of an inch.
From a B cup to a D cup is +3/4 of an inch.
From a B cup to a DD/E cup is +1 1/4 of an inch.
From a B cup to a F cup is 1 3/4 of an inch.
From a B cup to a G cup is 2 1/4 of an inch.
For each higher cup size, add approximately 3/8 to 1/2 inch for each size.

Now that you have the measurement, here is where you plug this in.

With the pattern flat in front of you, and the hemline closest to you, locate the lowest point on the side seam, (cutting line is fine) Mark this point M.
Now you will now draw a line from this point "M" (towards you) which parallel to the Center front and is the length of Measurement "X." After you draw this
line, you will draw another line which is perpendicular (90 degree angle) to this line. This second line is to be drawn in the direction away from the
center front, and is the length of Measurement "X." Mark the end of this line as Point "E."

9. You are now going to open up the pattern to give your bust more room. Take hold of the lower cut portion of the side seam, and sliding it out to the
side, and downward at the same time, dragging it to point E. Point "M" and point "E" are now ontop of each other. You will see the split from the armscye
to the bust point opening up, along with a dart forming at the side seam.

10. Now you will place the piece which was removed (H/C) back onto the pattern. Align the center front line, and the hem line. You will see that
there is now more room in the length of the garment front, and in the width of the front.

11. To draw in the darts. The dart at the side seam which has been created is referred to as a "sloper dart." A sloper dart points to and ends at the bust
point. In actuality, when we stitch clothing, bust darts end before the bust point. The distance is another variable. Draw a circle around the bust point.
Start with a 2" diameter (the distance across the circle) with the center falling at the bust point. (Larger busts require a larger circle -- I have
even used up to a 5" circle. (If you need circle templates, trace cups from your kitchen cubbards onto tracing paper, then fold them in half and in half
again to find the center)

12. Find the two lines from the side dart which intersect this circle. Find the point on the circle which is half way between the two dart legs. Mark a
Point "D" here. Now redraw the dart legs from the seamline (NOT CUTTING LINE) to point D. You can also create a waist dart at this point if you want to nip
in the waist. Repeat the procedure using the opening at the waist (points H) and the bust circle. Well, you are done. As you can see, when you stitch the
dart in, the side seam returns to it's original length, so the back of the garment will fit correctly.

This is not an exact science. If you find that there is too much fabric above the bust (from armscye to armscye). Re do the alteration moving Point "A"
lower (towards the sideseam) on the armscye. If you find the reverse is true, that it is pulling across the front still, move point "A" higher towards the
shoulder.

Any ???? let me know. If you want to know how to eliminate the waist dart and add it to the side seam, or moving both of them to a shoulder dart, or how to
turn this into a princess seam, let me know. I'll try to weave some words to accomplish this. Good luck!

Colleen L. Jones Fancy Threads

Please feel free to pass this on to friends (do not publish for profit or not
without permission), as long as credit is given to the author along with full
authors name, company name, e-mail address and website address.
Thanks! -CLJ