Notched Collars

Nancy Moore

I don't know that there is a "foolproof" method for sewing the collar area together but here are several tips to ensure success:

1. Careful marking is a MUST. Most of us (including me) like to just clip into a seam to mark the position of a dot but this is one instance where you need more. Use tailor tacks or marking paper or whatever will ensure an accurate marking.

2. Stay stitch the neckedge from dot to dot.

3. When joining the collar to the neckedge and/or undercollar to the facing begin stitching at the dot rather than stitching towards it. In other words, stitch one half towards the center, then stitch the other half towards the center. This works well because it is easier to control where you start (rather than where you stop) and reduces naccurates that may come from possible shifting.

4. Clip clip clip and press seam allowances open

5. When joining the collar and undercollar sections together, stitch across the top of the lapel to the dot, break stitching, then from dot to top of collar on each side. Leave just the tiniest "gap" at the dot where the collar/lapel meet. This allows for turn of fabric. The "gap" shouldn't be bigger than the tip of a pencil lead can fit through. This is an excellent time to turn your garment inside out and look at your work. If you're happy with the appearance, finish stitching.

5. Practice makes perfect. The more of these you do, the better you'll get.

If you're interested in other methods, Threads published an alternate method some issues back. Happy stitching.

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Does anyone have a sure-fire way of making notched collars like the ones

we have on blazers, either book references or e-mail addresses?

I always have trouble at the point where the collar and facing meet. I

have trouble making a nice flat "V" shape.

>>>>>>>>>

Are you attaching the upper collar to the facing and the under collar to the jacket, then trying to stitch around the point, to the "V" and then over the rest of the lower collar?

If so, AAAAAAAaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhh I hate pattern companies!!!

The way to accomplish this flat V area is to:

Stitch the upper and lower collars together along the three sides, trim close (grade the seams) and turn rightsides out.

Stitch the collar only to the jacket.

Stitch the back facing to the front facings.

Stitch from the lower jacket edge, along front, around point, then straight across the facing, sandwiching the collar which is already attached to the jacket) under the facing, and stitch right across the back neck area, then to the other point, down the front.

Trim close (grade the seams) and turn right sides out.

NOTE: This is not the flattest method to put on a collar. But it is the best MACHINE method to do so.

Hope this helps.

Colleen L. Jones
Fancy Threads
www.fancythreads.com
fancyth@tiac.net