General Tips & Instructions
1. Print all of the models out on cardboard. I have found that any card between 160gsm and 220gsm is adequate. I personally used 190gsm for the models pictured on the site.

2. I score all of the pieces before cutting them out. If you used a laser printer or copier I suggest using a knife very lightly on all of the fold lines. This will cut the ink and stop it from flaking off in big lumps when you fold the card. You can use the knife method on inkjet printers but I prefer to use a blunt object to score the card rather than cut it. Some common blunt objects are bread knives and empty ball point pens. If you use this method on inkjet prints you should not need to patch up the score lines.

3. Once all the folds are scored, cut out the individual pieces. If pieces have small sections or tabs to fold, I usually leave some excess card to make the folding easier. You can cut off the excess before gluing. An example of small folding is the Tank gun barrel and the D6 cubes. If some pieces need to be double thickness, I normally cut them roughly and glue them onto another piece of card. When the glue is dry, cut them out properly through both thicknesses of card.

4. Always test assembly before gluing the pieces together. I normally use a felt pen to color all of the cut edges with an appropriate color. This is also the time to do any patching to score lines. Make the fold flat so you expose the scored edge and color with a felt pen.

5. Curves are created by rolling the piece around something smaller. I use pencils paint brushes and wire.

6. Gluing the pieces together is where most people have problems. I personally use PVA glue. I have heard of Tacky Glue which is supposed to be PVA that is less runny. (So it’s “Tacky” duh!)

7. I tend to use less glue. This means the models don’t warp from getting wet and drying. It also means the models dry faster. The downside is that quite often you don’t get a second chance to reposition the two pieces you are gluing together.

8. My friend uses more glue. He usually has to hold the pieces in position for longer. This is to stop warping as much as waiting for the glue to dry. He takes longer to build a model (not that much longer) but he has never had to throw one out because the pieces were glued incorrectly. (I have!)

9. If you get glue on a model, where it shouldn’t be, wipe it off quickly. Surprisingly, a damp cloth can be used on paper to wipe the glue off, if you are careful. The glue does dry clear so it may not be worth the effort.

Building Dice
1. Most of the dice or markers are one-piece models. This means you need to think about the order you glue the tabs together. I usually find a section that has no tabs. This will be the last piece to glue. Try to organize it so that you are only gluing one tab at a time. The D10 is an exception to the rule. I usually build both halves first and then glue them together.

Building Tanks
1. The Tanks are the most complex model at the moment. The gun and chassis are the difficult parts. The chassis because of the curves. The gun because of the size of the folds

2. For those of you who just want to get in and play you need only put together parts A, B and C. This will give you a complete tank. For those who want to add a bit more detail I suggest adding parts D and E to the construction. I normally make them double thickness to give them more dimensions.

3. I use black felt pens on all the cut edges and folds of the tanks. This gives them a dark look and hides any errors fairly well.

4. Finally the turret is meant to rotate on the chassis. Most people I know use a pin, staple or some other fastener to join these two parts together during construction.