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ès classe ... des ptits escarpins bouts pointus et à ptit talons, bien porté avec un jean ... Comment s'habiller pour un rencart?" - Tout est dans la question!! j'ai un rencart ce soir, et je ne sais pas si je dois miser sur le confortable (jean + converses + petite chemise noire transparente avec debardeur en dessous) ou sur le sexy (jupe noire courte "a volants"+ bottes (ou escarpins??)+ t-shirt sympa.... a votre avis ?? - sachant qu'il est très "horny" mais qu'on a encore jamais "humhum"...je voudrais pas non plus passer pour une fille facile... QUE FAIRE??... ...Trying to understand designer Narciso Rodriguez is a bit frustrating. He appears to be an exercise in contradictions. And yet he'd probably disagree with that statement. It's not that he's argumentative or difficult -- he's too unassuming to be either of those things. Maybe it's just that he doesn't see things the way other people do. Asked if he'd consider himself a minimalist, and the former Calvin Klein designer says "No, never." He's almost prejudicially adamant about the fact that his strongest design influence is downtown, kids' street wear. And yet, he made probably the most famous dress of the decade (in the U.S. anyway) for Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, new American royalty. Meeting him in a fur salon is equally incongruous. Anne Dee Goldin of Goldin-Feldman, the New York company that makes his furs, quips that he looks like he showed up for our interview in his pyjamas. Certainly, after a sleepless night, Rodriguez would rather nap than answer questions about his style, yet Goldin emphasizes how strongly hands-on he has been in putting together his first fur collection with his own name on it. Clearly this is a man with defined ideas about his life, his designs and the fashion world in general. Take the minimalist label, with which Goldin herself identifies and also seems to think would apply to Rodriguez. "I don't believe that anymore," he says. "I think it's more about being clean, but I don't think these coats are minimal at all. There's a lot of thought that goes into the seaming and the shape and the color and the fabric, but it's not minimal. Minimalism is stick straight, square. To me, that's not where I want to go with this. This is more about shape and silhouette." Sufficiently chastised, anyone can look at one of the beautifully tailored, perfectly shaped jackets he's making and get the point. Yet there is still something pure in form about them. Asked if he'd agree with a magazine's description of his last collection of clothes for Cerruti -- "classic tailoring in luxe fabrics with just the right amount of spice" -- and he says it's a perfect way to describe it. Yet he seems to disdain the word classic in general. He concedes that maybe five percent of his new furs will be classic, but Goldin interjects, "It's all in a way classic, it's just modern. Can't you be modern and classic at the same time?" Rodriguez says pointedly, "I think classic has gone hand-in- hand with good taste for so long, and the avant garde or funky has gone hand-in-hand with maybe bad taste or young or gimmicky. I've tried to do something that's not either. It is modern and it is young, but it isn't gimmicky. And it's not classic." If he seems hard to pin down, it shouldn't be surprising. He received rave reviews for his fall '97/98 Cerruti collection, then flew the coop. Reportedly, he couldn't come to terms with the house over the length of his contract. Rodriguez refuses to discuss that situation at all, and doesn't want to even mention the name Cerruti. He appears puzzlingly unaware that it has become common knowledge in the fashion world that he was designing for Cerruti. As for his non-fur plans, he says, "I'm working on different things right now. Part of the way I'm structuring my life and my career is very much the same way that I've built this collection. I want it to be a little bit more free, a little more gypsy-like. I want to work in different places on different things and not necessarily have my own design house on Seventh Avenue or Avenue Montaigne. At the moment, anyway. I mean, things change. What I'm focusing on is doing this in a new way, so I don't have to stay in one place for too long. I've become a little bit of a gypsy. I don't think you necessarily have to have a company to have a collection. I had a collection with Cerruti and it wasn't my company. I like that idea. We'll see if it works." (In case you didn't notice, he just said the "C" word, right after he practically forbid Goldin from talking about it. Another interesting contradiction.) So far, his collaboration with Goldin-Feldman is proceeding successfully. Rodriguez and Goldin have a real rapport, which they originally struck up several years ago, when he was designing for Anne Klein, and Goldin-Feldman held the Anne Klein fur license. "That was a lot of fun for both of us, so when this opportunity came along, it was perfect," says Rodriguez. After Anne Klein, he moved to Calvin Klein, then Tse Cashmere and Cerruti. Rodriguez was born in Newark, New Jersey, educated at Parson's School of Design in New York City and grew up with a distinctly New York design sense. He feels that working in Europe has helped to alter that slightly. Also, his gypsy lifestyle doesn't seem out of place in today's world of continent-hopping fashion designers. "There's really such a change in attitudes world-wide," he says. "The Asian market is so big now for designers. All the European designers are coming over here -- I mean, they've been here for years, but they are more and more. And now the Americans are going to Europe in such a big way. All of the boundaries are being crossed. You have people like me working in France and Italy, and now [Americans] Marc Jacobs [at Louis Vuitton] and Tom Ford [at Gucci] of course. Look at [John] Galliano at Dior and [Alexander] McQueen [at Givenchy]." Rodriguez became interested in fur again a year ago, while he was still at Cerruti and began to feel a return to fur fashion. For the past few seasons, "You see it on everybody's runway, whether it's fur-trimmed leather or linings or whatever, it's there." So, while he was deciding what to do with his ready-to- wear alliance and whether or not to go ahead with this license, he put some furs in his fall collection, which recently premiered in Paris. "For fall, the sportswear collection that I worked on was very sexy. I think it's time for a little bit of that new glamour and shape and femininity. I'm excited about what we're doing with this fur collection, because it's not your typical fur collection. It's not so precious. It's treated a little more casual, like a sportswear collection. It's about great little jackets that aren't so serious. It's about short little sweaters. I love knits -- we all wear t-shirts and sweaters. There's a big portion of the collection that's treated like a great cardigan jacket with a good collar or a little blazer, as opposed to a full sweeping mink. It's much younger than I think you're used to seeing fur, a lot more relaxed. But then again it's still very tailored, which is what I love to do." He sees fur as just another textured fabric, in which to create his feminine shapes. He wants to throw off the old ideas about furs and start over. "Since furs are coming back, let's look at it in a new way, not so precious and not so lady," he says. "They don't have to be that way." Goldin has introduced him to some new finishes, and he loves the idea of working with non-traditional furs, or at least making them look non-traditional. Shearling is "micro-sheared" as flat as velvet. A mid-length curly lamb looks a bit like kalgan lamb but isn't. Long-haired shearling is the new fox. All of the pelts are reversible, hide-out or unlined, and many have unfinished edges. Natural brown mink is reversible to suede dyed aubergine, as is persian lamb. Rodriguez prefers classic colors and dark colors, like black, purplish browns, vicuna, camel and a range of off-white tones. The collection is set to premiere with a show at Goldin- Feldman/Group Panache on May 22, and is expected to include about 45 pieces. "I adore the persians," says Rodriguez. "When you think of persian you usually think of something so lady and so heavy and so precious, and these are just like little reversible cardigan nothings." "And don't forget the sable," Goldin reminds him. As if anyone could miss it. In the middle of a wall posted with small bits of dark, flat sample furs, a hunk of fluffy sable is smacked right in the center. The key to the entire collection, however, is the tailored shape. Goldin tries on a canvas of a simple (classic, dare I say?) bathrobe coat, and it becomes clear why Rodriguez decries the label minimalist. Perfectly cut panels are sewn together to create gentle curves and a strictly disciplined, shaped drape. To most furriers, the idea of a fitted coat is positively hair-raising. But when it's accomplished like this, it looks like the most obvious thing in the world -- and like a favorite wardrobe essential to wear every day. "It's all about the shape, the proportion of the shoulder," says Rodriguez. "It's not a big, heavy skirt or top or big, huge sleeves. It's much more streamlined, much cleaner, with all the seam interest and stitching." He says his designs are all about celebrating the beauty of a woman's body. Trends aren't important. He practically goes ballistic when questioned if these furs will fall in line with fall's '80s flashback. "No. That's not my thing. I could never do that look. That's a little bit misogynistic and not where I'm at right now." Misogynistic? Here we go again. Just when all of the fashion editors are talking about fall's '80s images as the type that make a woman look like she's in control, this media darling disagrees. He leaps, "Do you want to walk around with football shoulder pads again, or in a heavy black leather dress? Do you want to go back to the '80s? We just left the '80s. I've got news for you, it wasn't that interesting. And anybody who wants to go back there, go. I'm looking toward the future and something more beautiful than that. I don't believe in gimmickry. I think it's much more flattering for a woman to just put on something really beautiful and feel really confident, and that's it. It's very easy. It doesn't have to be so intellectualized, so short or so long, or the shoes so heavy you can't walk. There comes a point where enough is enough, and I think we've reached that point in fashion." Which might seem like fashion anarchy but ring like a mantra to a lot of women trying to get dressed in the morning. So, forget the contradictions, the low-key mannerisms and sudden vehemence, the debate about what's classic and what's minimal. What it all comes down to with Rodriguez is clean lines cut to skim a woman's curves and make her look beautiful. That was sharply obvious on Sigourney Weaver and Claire Danes in their Cerruti dresses at the Academy Awards, and it's equally so in his new fur collection. - Skin tight clothes at Cannes - By NATASHA STOYNOFF -- Toronto Sun - CANNES -- Leaning against the bottom of the red-carpeted staircase where movie royalty like Sharon Stone, Winona Ryder and Sigourney Weaver have trod, a French teen stands poised in a peek-a-boo halter top, skin-tight hiphuggers and towering platform sandals. She looks like a Lolita playing dress-up in her mommy's naughty boudoir, but her aspirations are much loftier. With Cannes bombarded by cigar-puffing, big-name movie producer-types during the annual Festival de Film, she is hoping -- like countless other girls fresh off the Eurotrain amidst this celluloid cesspool -- to be discovered. Longing to ascend this famous staircase herself one day, she carelessly hooks hand on hip, pouts, then lowers her shades to see if anyone has noticed. "The girls here definitely dress to be noticed," says L.A. screenwriter Gregory Graham, also at the Festival to capture the attention of film execs hungry for new talent. "There is a lot of mesh and midriff floating by." It's always been de rigueur for the smoldering Riviera sun to dictate a provocative dress code and hedonistic joie de vivre. The code this summer of the young and starry-eyed includes "grosses chaussures -- beeg shoes," says Cannes native Ophelie Midot, 16, in broken English, "tight pants or short-short skirts, a petite shirt, and lunettes de soleil." The style is most apparent along the Croisette, the town's beachfront boardwalk, where girls like Ophelie stroll slowly or rollerblade quickly by in packs. "The style is very superficial," says Elhadje Seck, 19, a local waiter-actor who managed to nab a ticket to this year's closing night party for Godzilla (he's got a buddy working the door) and is primed for his 15 minutes of near-fame experience. "And during the Festival, it gets more so. Bigger. Crazier." Case in point: One mother-daughter duo -- now fixtures on the Festival circuit -- show up every year searching for party and premiere tickets wearing the same leopard catsuits for 10 days straight. But in their desperate quest to have fame thrust upon them, Festival hangers-on who prowl the party circuit and strut the boardwalk do not end up mimicking Bardot or Deneuve, but a more cartoonish, Americanized version of their classic French sex sirens. "Everybody wants to look like Pamela Anderson," admits Aline Copin, 18, a high school student in Cannes, "not like the French actresses." And it's those clumping, clomping, four to six inches of rubber-cork footwear that embody this 'Regardez-moi!' attitude. If Cannes were a shoe like Italy is a boot, it would be a showy platform wedge topped with a splash of mesh. "We call them Buffalo shoes," says Copin, taking a drag on her cigarette as she stretches out her slender legs and chunky shoes on her boyfriend's car fender. "They are very sexy, non?" And dangerous, in more ways than one. At John Turturro's beach party for his Festival flick, Illuminata, girls teetered and tripped about on the dance floor, not only because they were trying to get near Illuminata star Christopher Walken, but because they just can't walk, never mind dance, in these elevator shoes. Canadian actress Lenore Zann, here for the Director's Fortnight screening of the film Babyface, had already mastered the walk before arriving in Cannes. But for those who get off the plane in Nice in typical North American grungewear, you learn pretty fast to sex it up. Zann's co-star, baby-faced Elisabeth Rosen, 21, went understated in a sweater, loose slacks and sensible shoes at her first cocktail party. But by her press conference the next day, she was walking taller. By about five inches. "It's fun to dress up like this," says the Edmonton native. "It feels like a hoot." One former Parisian fashion model, also recently taken with The Look, agrees: "Women here dress to amuse, provoke and seduce," says the coltish brunette. "They live their lives in public, and they dress for that role." So when an actress of significant proportions dons une style certaine, there is a ripple effect. French actress Beatrice Dalle arrived at a recent Festival party in period costume -- breasts lifted and squeezed like Raquel Welch in The Three Muskateers. The next day, dozens of fashion victims rang up Morgan on rue Classe -- the hippest shop in Cannes -- demanding the same bondage gear. "The movies, they are a big influence," says one saleswoman at the store. Indeed, at the red-carpeted premieres each night, gawkers set up chairs from early morning to get a look at what the stars are wearing. This year, Sharon Stone wore a strappy gold number. But the French will probably find a way to make what any American star wears, even Stone, seem even more ... naked. "French women have a beautiful sense of themselves," says former Torontonian Leah Hanes, a talent agent in L.A. "They wear their clothes like a second skin. It is totally distracting. I've been mid-conversation with men doing business, and they've apologized because they had to stop and watch some girl go by," she shakes her head. "I have to watch, too." Feeling right at home in this milieu is Las Vegas porn star Serenity, who donned a petite silver shirt and tight leather pants for the Seinfeld party at the American Pavilion. "Cannes is sexy, so you have to dress that way," says Serenity, star of the film Sex On The Riviera and here to promote her latest skin flick, Pornogothic. "Besides, it's good for publicity. I've had a few offers and readings for feature films. It's a step in a different direction." As for the sexy clothing, Serenity says, "I love it here because it's more liberated. They are not afraid of sex. But it's not like they do it in the streets or anything." Just in case, though, they are prepared. On any street corner in Cannes you can find a bright yellow condom dispensing machine that will shell out protection for 10 francs... 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Fox Vivien Leigh W Wallace Kurth Wally Kurth Wanda Acuna Wanda Ventham Wendie Malick Wendy Benson Wendy Braun Wendy Crewson Wendy Hughes Wendy Makkena Wendy Malick Wendy Richard Wendy Schaal Whitney Houston Whittni Wright Whoopi Goldberg Wing Chen Winona Ryder X Xenia Seeberg Y Yancy Butler Yasmine Bleeth Yeardley Smith Yolanda Andrade Yvette Freeman Yvette Mimieux Yvonne Craig Yvonne de Carlo Yvonne Niami Yvonne Reyes Z Zasu Pitts Zena Grey Zienia Merton Zita Johann Ziyi Zhang Zoe McLellan Zoe Tay Zoe Trilling Zooey Deschanel Zsa Zsa Gabor