The Pindari and Kafni Glaciers lie on the Southern fringes of the Nanda Devi Sactuary. The Pindar and Kafni rivers originate from these glaciers. The approach to these glaciers is from Bageshwar a small town about 70 km from Almora. 30 km further north along the Sharayu river is the last road head - Soung - from where we started trekking.

A 2 km ascent took us to Loharkhet (1750 m) where we spent the night. The next day we crossed over the Dhakhuri pass (2900 m) and reached Dhakhuri (2850 m) which is about 11 km from Loharkhet. The place is quite scenic and if the skies are clear, the snowclad peaks of Nanda Khat, Nanda Kot, Maiktoli can be clearly seen. After resting for a day at Dhakhuri we moved on to Khati (2210 m), 8 km away. Khati seems to be the largest village in the valley. There are many pucca cement houses and many solar panels have also been erected. This is also the last habitation on this route. The trek to Sundherdhunga glacier branches off from Khati.

The next day we moved to Phurkia (3260 m) passing through Dwali (2575 m), a distance of 16 km. The next morning we went to the Zero Point (3280 m) of the Pindari glacier which is about 7 km from Phurkia. The glacier is a further km away and is not easily accessible because of a huge landslide. We were very fortunate that the skies were clear and we got a fabulous view of the Pindari glacier and the Nanda Khat, Changus, and Burjori peaks around the glacier. For most of the previous 4 days the skies were overcast and it had rained and many earlier groups had to return disappointed.

The same afternoon we went to Dwali (5 km from Phurkia). It rained the following day and we stayed put at Dwali. The next morning the skies cleared up and we trekked to the Kafni Glacier (3800 m), a distance of 12 km. Once again the weather gods smiled on us and blessed us with clear skies. The major peaks around the Kafni glacier are the Nanda Kot and the Nanda Bhandar. Besides, there are many other beautiful minor peaks. The trek to Kafni passes through good pine scented forests and alpine meadows. We returned to Dwali in the afternoon.

On the return leg to Bageshwar, we halted at Khati and Dhakhuri.

By the general trekking standards, the Pindari - Kafni trek is a 5 star trek. There are rest houses (both PWD and Kumoan Mandal Vikas Nigam) at all the stages and the watchmen provide tea, breakfast and meals. You can even get a Frooti or Jumpin and the ubiquitous Maggi Noodles. Incidentally, the locals have also started feeding their kids with Maggi!!! The ascents, though strenuous, are not difficult (nothing even as difficult as Bhimashankar!); the path is well maintained and is at least a meter wide throughout except for some small patches where one has to cross landslides. There aren't many diversions and it is difficult to stray from the path.

Being such a 5 star trek, it is a route which draws a lot of people. We reached there at the fag end of the pre-monsoon season and we were told that nearly 2000 trekkers had already been on the trek this season. The route is littered with Gutkha packets, biscuit wrappers and plastic. Not all groups are serious trekkers and at two camps we had to tolerate a couple of groups from Delhi and Haryana whose priorities were drinking, gambling, quarreling and generally making noise.

We also encountered some interesting people though. We met an American family of 4 with the father carrying his 2 year old daughter on his back. Then there was a 55 year old Bengali who makes it a point to go on a Himalayan trek every year all alone!

All in all, a very enjoyable experience. Recommended to all and especially to first-timers.