Inshore Saltwater Ultralight Fishing

I was asked after a catching my fifth snook of the evening while a dozen others went fishless, 'what's your secret?' You can say I found a good spot, and found the 'pattern.' That's a big part of it, and not discussed here. But if I didn't pay attention to the following details, I would have certainly lost my second keeper of the snook season.

The Details

I sharpen my hooks, and I check their sharpness after every fish and after getting 'hung up.'

I use a twenty pound diameter monofilament leader, which is the absolute minimum for saltwater. I believe it improves lure action and reduces the line signature compared to heavier leaders. I used to use Fluorocarbon, which is very abrasion resistant, but I have recently switched to Stren Original, which is also abrasion resistant but cheaper. The water isn't exactly clear in Fort Pierce, so I don't believe the use of mono has significantly reduced the number of strikes I've gotten. Up to a three feet long leader is necessary depending on whether ladyfish are present, but only a one foot leader is necessary for snook. The downside of the light leader is it must be checked after every fish, or, in other words, it must be frequently replaced.

I use 10 pound test Power Pro. The lack of stretch is very important for fishing jigs. No stretch means greater sensitivity as well as quick hooksets.

I use a seven feet medium light graphite composite rod. It is light in weight so I can cast for longer periods, and it is soft enough to allow me to keep constant tension on the fish. A length of seven feet allows for longer casting distances which is necessary for approaching spooky saltwater fish, though I'm more comfortable with a six and half feet rod. Rated for 6-12 lbs., it, along with the Power Pro, casts my preferred lure range of one quarter to one half ounce. Its durability is also excellent, which is necessary since I can be careless, especially when dehydrated and tired, and saltwater gamefish have a tendency of being tackle busters.

I use a Shimano reel, medium light class (e.g. FX 2000). It is lightweight, balances the above rod, and has a dependable drag.

I use small, light, lures. Get more strikes. In actuality, while this is at the end of the list, this is the determining factor in selecting the aforementioned tackle.

I tie strong knots like the Palomar and the Surgeon's Loop. I tie my knots prior to fishing in a well-lit relaxed environment.

What Would Make Me Less Successful

Why I Wrote This

The 'fish of a lifetime' only comes once. I'd rather catch it than tell a story of 'the one that got away.' Wouldn't you? The most important stuff written here can be done before one even reaches the water. It's better to learn and do now, away from the water, rather than learn the hard way: in losing a big fish. Believe me. Only the big ones get away.

Also, I'm an advocate of 'ultralight,' and, in terms of inshore saltwater, what I have described is an ultralight setup, which by definition leaves little or no margin for error. Yet I've consistently landed fish heavier than what my line is rated for without having access to a boat. My point is most fishermen use tackle much heavier than is necessary and consequently miss fish.

My first experiences with fishing saltwater was with a 5' spincasting Zebco spooled with 10 lbs., a #6 hook, an eighth ounce egg sinker, and cut shrimp. I had a lot of fun catching saltwater panfishes in a grass flat near a 'wall' and boat ramp. I wouldn't mind doing all that again, except that I've caught more than zero snook, and some of you know what that means.


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Most recent revision: Monday, October 28, 2002