Diana and Fashion

She entered the marriage with jeans, a few cashmere sweaters and one long dress, plus a collection of Laura Ashley dirndls that were the Sloane Ranger uniform. Only six years later, the Princess of Wales owned more than 80 suits, 12-dozen evening gowns and 50 day dresses, plus matching shoes and clutches galore. Two meticulous women dressers labored full-time to keep it all cleaned, sorted and cataloged. Diana got to live every woman's dream of just going out and stocking up. With the early guidance of pals at British Vogue, she educated her eye and became, in time, a style setter: When Di donned polka-dot socks, they sold out nationwide. The day the astrakhan muff appeared in 1981, Harrods was stormed. Single-handedly she popularized the ruffled collar, the pearl choker and the smart suit for everyday throughout the western world. Her worth to the British fashion industry has been estimated in the tens of millions. Her style strategies are legion, but the amazing thing is that even when the getup is less than spectacular, her outfits strike the appropriate note for virtually every occasion. The tweed suit for the Scottish honeymoon. A red-spotted dress, inspired by the Japanese flag, for Kyoto. A tunic for Arab countries. Plain navy to politely fade into the background at other people's weddings. Black in the sad preseparation days, and nowadays plenty of exuberant short skirts, bare arms, womanly cleavage, cranked-up heels, cavernous shoulder bags, dark designer shades. "I wish," she once told a friend, "everyone would stop talking about my clothes." Diana, darling, dream on.

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