Plymouth Rock The Pilgrims stepped here -- sort of (November, 1620)

It's just a big rock, six feet across -- but a rock that's worthy of a cage on Water Street in Plymouth, Mass., where it sits beneath a protective canopy, flanked on three sides by granite and on the fourth by an iron grill facing the waves of the Atlantic Ocean.

Often touted as the very spot on which the Pilgrims came ashore in November of 1620, it has stood for centuries as a symbol of the start of European civilization in what was to be the USA -- though before the Pilgrims there were English settlements in Virginia and Spanish settlements in the Southwest.

It was as big as a house when William Bradford, Myles Standish and others spotted it alone on a beach. It split in two in 1774, "horizontally, like a bagel," John McPhee wrote in his rock biography a few years ago. In 1880, the halves were put back together, and "1620" was chiseled in. In the years since, the rock has come apart again and been stuck back together; pieces have been sold as paperweights and cuff links; pebbles and shards have fallen away; and tides have worn it smooth. Even a teenage vandal got out some green paint to proclaim his love for "Sarah" on the rock in the 1970's!

Who cares if the Pilgrims actually ever stepped on this particular rock or ever paid it any mind after landing? What's important now is all of the Pilgrim-themed pleasures it has spawned around it, from a wax museum that's kind of creepy to a winery that specializes in cranberry wine (they card you at the door, high schoolers!).

The big attraction and the one I recommend is the Mayflower II, a replica of the original ship, which sailed here from England in 1957. The most impressive site is south of town: Plimouth Plantation, a faithful recreation of the newcomers' village. It's occupied by people who "live" in the 17th century. they pretend not to know what a camera is, but don't mind being photographed. On occasion you will be offered a taste of cider (non-alcoholic!) or a doughnut. For turkey, you have to wait for the Thanksgiving feast, of course. It all sounds kind of corny, but if you give it a try, you won't be disappointed.

Information: call 1-508-746-3377

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