By Alastair Rosie
This is a review of Devonshire Tea establishments in Melbourne's Dandenong Ranges; prices are correct at time of writing and are in Australian currency only.
It’s a familiar scenario for most of us. The kids are screaming, you’ve had a bad week at work or your partner has decided to join the ‘me’ generation. Wouldn’t it be nice to escape? To leave it all behind for a few hours and pretend that the world is still the same as when grandma bought her bread from the corner store, instead of a supermarket tray? When tea and freshly baked scones were a part of daily life instead of a specialty?
The Devonshire Tea is an old English tradition, consisting of tea (or coffee) and scones. Jam and cream is an essential ingredient of the repast. The word scone comes from the Dutch word Schoonbroot or ‘beautiful bread.’ Scones are traditionally served in the afternoon with whipped double cream or rich clotted cream. But visitors to England will need to ask for ‘Cream tea,’ not a Devonshire tea. The correct protocol is to ask for a Devonshire cream tea or Yorkshire cream tea, depending on which county you are in. All counties however, recognise cream tea as our Devonshire tea.
Tastefully Yours, Main Street Olinda 9751 2128. Hours: 10-5pm w/days, 9-5.30pm w/ends.
‘Tastefully Yours,’ owned by Dennis Sideras is located in the middle of Olinda. His tearoom features award-winning pies of which he is justifiably proud. "People come especially for the pies," he says. A Devonshire Tea here will cost you $6. The interior is adorned with locally made gifts, which are all for sale. A special feature is the table with six enormous teddies around it. A Devonshire here will cost $6 with light lunches ranging from $3.50-$9.
Old Tyme Coffee Shop
1/698 Burwood Hwy Belgrave
9752 6883
Hours: 10-10pm Wed-Sun 10-5pm Mon-Tues.
Located in the heart of Main Street Belgrave between the hot bread kitchen and the printer, this coffee shop has seen such illustrious patrons as the Premier Jeff Kennett, amongst others. The owners Peter and Christine Smith have been in business for eighteen months.
One of their specialties is the Scrumpy Jack cider on tap along with a fine variety of English type beers. A Devonshire tea is $5.00 with light lunches costing around $6.50. The lunch menu is typically English and includes Yorkshire pudding.
Henry Crabbe’s Restaurant and Tearoom
2 Kallista-Emerald Rd
Kallista 9752 1082
Hours: 8-6pm (7 days p/w)
Located on Cook’s Corner, the tearooms here offer beautiful views of Sherbrooke forest and are right opposite a walking track. The teas here are a little dearer at $7.50 but with homemade jam and clotted cream you get what you pay for. Peter Feil has been running the tearoom for four years.
Pig and Whistle Tavern
1429 Mt Dandenong Tourist Rd
Mt Dandenong 9751 2366
Hours: 11am till late (kitchen closes 9.30 aprox)
Janine Wilson has been running this restaurant for over seven and a half years. Just around the corner from another famous landmark, the Mt Dandenong hotel. The Pig and Whistle is a fully licensed restaurant open from 11am until late. The menu here unlike other restaurants is flexible enough to allow a Devonshire after dinner and a steak for breakfast.
Speaking of Devonshire, the tea here will set you back $6.00. The tavern boasts an open fire and exposed beams, perfect for those foggy mountain nights.
Miss Marples Main Street Sassafras 9755 1610 Wed-Sunday 11-4.30pm.
Stephen Hocking runs ‘Miss Marples’. His passion for the Agatha Christie novels is evident in the 30s type décor and movie stills. It’s easy to picture the Miss Marples of Agatha Christie fame sipping tea here and pondering, ‘murder most foul’. The fare is British, right down to the period costumes of the waitresses. He includes traditional English Pies on the menu, along with homemade trifle and ice cream. Light lunches hover around the $8 mark, with desserts at about $7. The complete Devonshire Tea is $7.50. Miss Marples is only open Wednesday to Sunday. Be prepared for a wait on weekends to be seated but the wait is well worth it.
It is not merely the quality of the tea or the jam and scones that sets the various tearooms apart, rather the simple pleasure of taking tea with a friend and watching the world pass by. The tearoom is not just a place to quench your thirst, but a refuge where you can recharge the emotional batteries and wonder if your absence has been missed yet.
On second thoughts, why not a refill?
In an age when espresso and cappuccino has become the drink of choice for many, and ‘service with a smile’ is given begrudgingly; it is comforting to know that Old World charm at an affordable price still exists.
Written by Alastair Rosie October 1998 ©
Other fine establishments are listed below.
High Valley
448 Mt Dandenong Tourist Road
Sassafras 9755 1596.
Hours 11-4.30pm w/days, 11-5pm w/ends
Devonshire tea: $8.00
Other fare: light lunches
Features:
Devonshire tea: $6.50
Other fare: light lunches
Features:
Devonshire Tea $7.90
Lunches: Yes
Features:
Hours: 12-11.30pm
Devonshire tea (Sunday only) $6.50
Other fare: Full menu
Features:
Hours: 11-4pm w/days, 11-5pm w/ends and public holidays
Devonshire Tea: $7.50
Other fare: Light lunches
Features: