GAMENESS ------------------------------------------------------------------------ The primary authors/editors of this FAQ are MAC and Scott Bradwell. In addition, Mikel Bartol wrote or helped write several sections. This FAQ, however, is really the result of a collaborative effort. Others have contributed a great deal through discussing and debating the material contained in this document. These people are(in alphabetical order): Aaron Dial, Paul Dunkel, Bryan Hinkle, Tim Mason, Carl Semencic, and Geoff Wright. [WWIPITWITHFLAG.JPG (31764 bytes)] ------------------------------------------------------------------------ What exactly is "gameness"? [The following is an exchange that occured on bulldog-l between Scott Bradwell and Wilf LeBlanc. The passages offset with "?????"'s are questions posed by Wilf.] Gameness in APBT's is a canine virtue that is most akin to the human virtue of unflagging courage. It is a determination to master any situation and never back down out of fear. It was developed in pit bulls by many generations of selective breeding. It is what allows a pit bull to keep fighting non-stop for two or more hours, in spite of broken bones, torn muscles, blood loss, dehydration, and exhaustion. But it is also valued by APBT owners who would never think of fighting their dogs. It is manifested in the can-do attitude of pit bulls toward any type of challenge, whether agility competitions, climbing up trees, or protecting their family against an armed attacker, etc. (Yes, check out Richard Stratton's books for photos of pit bulls actually climbing up the trunk of a big tree in order to nestle in the branches 15 feet off the ground.) Generally speaking, a game dog is an emotionally stable, easy-going dog, especially good with kids. Gameness should not be confused with aggressiveness. There are plenty of aggressive dogs that are not game, and there are game pit bulls who are not aggressive toward other types of dogs. Aggressiveness will propell a dog into a fight but will only sustain him for the first few minutes. Gameness, on the other hand, will not necessarily make a dog fight-happy; but if the dog has no other choice but to fight, a game dog will fight until it wins or dies trying, and will keep going as long as necessary. Gameness is an inner quality of pit bulls. There is no way you can tell by looking at a pit bull whether it is deeply game or not. The only test--and for many years the main criterion for selecting a dog for breeding purposes--is actually fighting the dog to see how it stands up to other dogs that have likewise already proven their gameness in the pit. Dogs that are emotionally unstable, or that fear-bite human beings are generally not game. If you want a nice pit, you're generally better off getting one that has been game-bred. These dogs represent the truest exemplars of all the best qualities in the breed. Your questions about my post on the nature of "gameness" posed a couple of very good questions that I would like to try to answer. ???????? If it is indeed the case that the only way that you can be sure that your dog is truly "game" is to have a fight to (almost) the death, what is really the point of having a game dog ? Many APBT owners like myself have no interest whatever in fighting our dogs, yet we appreciate the quality of gameness in our breed. I am quite content to know that just about any APBT, even one with only mediocre gameness as far as APBT's go, is still going to be far more game--that is, far more courageous and determined to succeed against any challenge he may confront--than the gamest individuals of just about any other breed. Thus, without ever having to match your dog against another, you can be confident that your dog is game simply by virtue of the fact of being an American Pit Bull Terrier. Of course not all pit bulls are equally game. It has been pointed out in a previous posts that there is a range in the variation in the *DEGREE* of gameness among individual pit bulls. If you plotted a distribution graph, you would get a classic bell curve, with a handful of dogs exhibiting dead gameness, another handful of dogs who are afraid of their own shadow, and the bulk of the dogs concentrated around the average in between these two extremes. If you then plotted the bell curves of gameness for other breeds, you would find that there is little overlap between the APBT's bell curve and those of all the rest. Your second question, Wilf, relates to whether the degree of a particular pit bull's gameness can be assessed by some test other than fighting; I'll return to this question below. All dog owners think there is something unique and superlative about their own dog's breed. Gameness is what I, as an APBT chauvanist, think is so special about pit bulls. Actually, let me modify that. What I love best about my own dog is how cute and cuddly and friendly she is with everyone. She's a dog I am proud to bring anywhere. She makes everyone laugh with her insane kissing compulsion. But these two qualities are not unrelated. As I mentioned in my prvious post, gameness seems to go hand in hand with a lovable, outgoing, licky disposition toward people. I have to say that I don't know and don't really care exactly *how* game my dog is relative to others of her breed. I imagine she's no great shakes, since her parents were weight-pullers, not fighters, and you'd have to go back to her great-grandparents to find dogs that were game-tested. But I can tell you that she is known, among more than a few neighborhood dog owners, as "the friendliest dog in Hyde Park." She is beside herself with happiness--literally leaping up and down for joy--whenever a passerby so much as smiles at her. It's important for people to understand the paradoxical truth that she, like all the other nice, human-loving pit bulls out there, is the way she is BECAUSE OF--NOT IN SPITE OF--her breed's history of selective breeding for fighting purposes. Until about 15 years ago, there were only a small handful of dedicated breeders who maintained this breed, and I would guess that nearly all of these breeders bred for gameness and game-tested their dogs in order to choose the ones to be bred. During all that time, you never heard of pit bulls mauling 5-year old kids. It was only when the breed became immensely popular in the 1980s--i.e., when lots of ignoramuses suddenly became backyard breeders--that you began to read stories (at least some of them must have been true) about man-eating pit bulls. These monster dogs were not "fighting dogs," but just the opposite. The scrupulous criteria that old-time breeders had used for selecting or culling dogs in breeding programs were thrown out the window--along with plain common sense. The backyard breeders didn't know the difference between gameness and aggressiveness. Many of them didn't grasp the fact that a champion fighting dog is born, not made; so they tried to make their dogs into "fighting dogs." How? Through abuse, teasing, "practice" on non-fighting dogs, etc.--all sorts of things that knowledgeable pit enthusiasts would find cruel and abhorrent--and counterproductive as preparation for pit contests. I read a story not long ago that was enough to turn my stomach; it was about the arrest of an 18-year old kid in Philadelphia on charges of animal abuse; he was keeping his wretched pit bull isolated in a tiny feces-covered kennel. The dog's only contact with the outside world was when this jerk would "feed" it live cats and dogs that he had stolen from neighobrs' homes. He thought he was preparing the dog to be a good fighter. Needless to say, it is this sort of person, rather than the old-time dedicated breeders, that the public--thanks to the mass media--associates with the breed. Speaking of the mass media, I wouldn't be surprised if this particular jerk got his bizarre ideas about schooling a pit dog from watching the sort of distorted, sensationalistic news coverage that purports to "expose" what pit fighting is all about. In the hands of ignorant breeders, the gentle, affectionate qualities that were so crucial to the old-time breeders also went out the window. You began to see idiotic ads in the classified section announcing "Pitbull pups for sale. Big-boned. Big heads. Excellent attack dogs. No papers. $250" From the old-time breeders' point of view, the gentle qualities were an absolutely indispensable safety precaution to be bred into a fighting dog, since no dog could be fought if it couldn't be safely handled by its owner during a pit contest. These breeders bred for a type that was extremely easy-going and docile around people and would NEVER think of biting a friendly hand, even amid the fury of a fight. A well-bred pit bull is so reliable in this respect that even if he is badly hurt in an automobile accident and is in extreme pain, he won't snap at his owner who tries to pick him up--unlike most dogs in that situation. Well-bred pit bulls are like labs in that they will never try to dominate their owners through threats, such as growling or baring teeth or snapping. Sure, they will try to dominate you--by outsmarting you, by doing something sneaky to get their way when they know you're not looking. But it is a very rare pit bull that will growl when you pick up his food dish or reach into his mouth to take a bone away. The analogy to labs is fitting because both of these breeds were selectively bred for tasks that demanded an extreme level of generosity toward people. Can you imagine a lab that snarled when you tried to take the duck from his mouth? Such a dog would have been culled from a serious performance-based breeding program. Likewise, any APBT that showed the least sign of aggression toward people was culled as unsuitable for breeding. Whether true or not, it was an article of faith among old-time breeders that a human-aggressive dog simply could not be dead game. In any case, such a dog would have been unsuitable for fighting purposes: no one would volunteer to be its handler or to referee the match. As a result of this careful breeding history, the APBT is an extremely easy-going, human-loving dog. This isn't just a personal, impressionistic perspective of mine. The American Canine Temperament Testing Association is an organization that titles dogs for passing its temperament test. The test consists of putting the dog into a series of unexpected situations, some involving strangers. The dog fails the test if it shows any signs of unprovoked aggression or panic around people. Of all dogs that take the test, 77% on average pass. But among pit bulls who take the test, 95% on average pass--one of the highest passing rates of all breeds. One wonderful thing about APBTs is that they have an uncanny ability to size up a potentially threatening situation correctly and decide whether or not it is actually something to get agitated over. This is related to their fearlessness and unphasability. Let me relate three stories about my dog Ruby that illustrate this point. (Please note: I'm definitely not claiming that Ruby is exceptionally game; all I'm saying is that she has a typical pit bull personality). This past summer, my wife had Ruby out in the back yard of our apartment building. Out of nowhere a little kid about 6 years old came charging at Ruby, swinging a big plastic sword over his head and screaming. He was pretending to be a Ninja turtle. Before my wife could cut him off, he ran right up to Ruby and whacked her right in the middle of the back with his sword. Ruby responded as she always does to the approach of little kids: celebratory dancing. She thought it was all a big game, just like tag. She was prancing up and down and straining at the leash to get close enough to lick the kid's face. A similar event occured this summer when my wife and I went out, with Ruby, to visit her brother in Portland, OR. My brother-in-law has an 8-year old kid, Ben, who is clinically diagnosed as suffering hyperactive/attention-deficit disorder. He's a nice kid but completely out of control. He acts impulsively without thinking of the consequences of his actions. He and Ruby fell in love instantly, but we vowed not to let him be alone with Ruby unsupervised. Not that we didn't trust Ruby, we didn't trust Ben. Well, one day the two of them somehow got out alone in the back yard. I was walking up the stairs inside the house when I glanced out the back window and, to my amazement, I saw Ben hauling off and repeatedly slugging Ruby in the face! I yelled out the window for him to stop it, and he did. But the incredible thing was Ruby's reaction: she was jumping up and down for joy as if getting punched in the face was the funnest game on earth. There was nothing Ben could do to her that she would see as threatening. She followed Ben right in the back door of the house. My brother-in-law sent Ben to his room for punishment. Ruby knew something was wrong. She stood outside the closed door of Ben's room, crying forlornly for her buddy to come back out and play. I told my brother-in-law, "Ben's lucky that the dog he decided to torment was a pit bull, and not a cocker spaniel or bichon. Otherwise, he might be missing a limb!" On the other hand, Ruby has growled only once in her life, and it was in an appropriate context. We live in the south side of Chicago, which has one of the highest crime rates in the country. 5 of the 9 apartment units in our building have been burglarized in the last two years; a foreign grad student was held up at gunpoint in the foyer of our building last year. There have been 4 fatal shootings in a three-block radius of our apartment since we moved in two years ago. You can hear gunfire most nights. So we're always a little anxious when we go out after dark, even just to take Ruby out to pee. Well, one night my wife took Ruby down to pee at about midnight. My wife noticed a guy walking down the other side of the street muttering to himself and shadow-boxing the air. He seemed to be drunk or on drugs. When he saw my wife, he crossed the street, still shadow-boxing and muttering, and approached her. Ruby didn't like the looks of this one bit. Her hair went up on her back, her whole body began shaking, and when this guy got within about 15 feet, she began to snarl in a deep, menacing tone. The guy backed off, muttering, "Whoa, pit bull, pit bull, pit bull," and crossed back over to the other side of the street and continued on his way, no doubt looking for an easier victim. We were pleasantly surprised to find out that Ruby actually had it in her to be protective; we had always thought she was just too goofy and too overly trusting of strangers to act the way she did. ??????? If gameness manifests itself as climbing trees, (etc etc) then aren't all these legitimate tests for gameness? Pit bulls will generally excel in activities that require sustained determination and that test their bodies' ability to endure pain and exhaustion to an extreme. But the fact is that there are very few activities that will test a dog's gameness to its limits, or that will provide a basis for comparing one dog's degree of gameness to another's. For example, wild boar hunting, in spite of the high level of risk to the dog involved, doesn't really test the limits of a dog's gameness. The tangle between boar and dog is fast, furious, and generally quite short (compared with a pit contest). Athletic ability, agility, explosive power, strength of bite, and smarts are of a higher priority here than gameness, which never really has a chance to come into play in so brief an encounter. The dog will either take the boar down or be killed before the depth of his gameness can make much of a difference. Several larger breeds of dogs--American Bulldogs and Argentine Dogos--seem to be at least equally adept at boar hunting as pit bulls. But this doesn't make them as game as pit bulls. Just because a game disposition will aid a dog in excelling at many different activities--such as agility competition, flyball races, tree-climbing, etc.--doesn't mean that these activities are sufficient tests for gameness. Gameness is multi-dimensional; the above activities do not stress all of these dimensions simultaneously to their extreme limits . Gameness is, in positive terms, a happy eagerness to pursue a challenge; but it is also, in negative terms, the stubborn refusal to heed the cries of the nervous system to stop struggling and and to flee the situation that is causing so much pain. None of the activities above can fully assess this second dimension. Unfortunately,the only activity that really tests the full extent of a dog's gameness is pit contests. It's a pity that this is the case. Personally, I don't much like the idea of dog fighting, especially when money is involved and takes precedence over the well-being of the dogs. If I knew of another method--say, a DNA test--which could determine gameness, I'd be happily promoting that method right now. But genetic research has a long way to go before it could provide such a test. And with slightly more imporant concerns, such as preventing cancer, I don't expect many research dollars to flow into DNA game -testing. As a result, I'm left in the rather hypocritical position of celebrating a canine virtue that is only made possible by a human vice. So be it. I still prefer game dogs. I said at the beginning of the post that I am uninterested in finding out just how game my own dog is. You might ask, "Why would anyone be interested in knowing exactly how game their dogs are?" Well, I'm not a breeder. Understandably, breeders only want to choose the very best exemplars of the breed in their breeding programs. If you breed APBTs without regard for their degree of gameness, their gameness will gradually be lost with each succeeding generation. This is essentially what has occurred with Am Staffs and Staffy Bulls, which for many generations have been selectively bred for appearance rather than for the invisible inner quality of gameness. (Furthermore, I should add, less than scrupulous selection of all these breeds also risks the loss of the breed's excellent dispostion toward people.) In order to maintain a high degree of the desired qualities, a breeder must carefully select only those dogs that have them in the highest degree. Gameness was an extremely difficult trait to develop; it took more than a century of tiny, incremental improvements through selective breeding to produce today's APBT. Though achieved only with great difficulty, gameness is easily lost, sometimes even in the hands of good breeders. If you mate two grand champions, you will be lucky if just one or two of the pups is of the same quality as the parents. Traditonally, the job of breeders was to identify these offspring and use only them to continue the breeding program. Sometimes it's the case that two great dogs will not produce any offspring who are their equals. You are right, Wilf, in the sense that the presence of gameness in a dog has nothing to do with making the dog fight. Fighting a dog obviously will not improve the genes it was born with. But if you were a breeder interested in *maintaining* the gameness of your line, well, that's a different story. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ SCHOOLING A DOG ~~written by S.steff~~ I believe one of the most important aspects of these dogs (other than buying a good dog) is schooling that good dog properly. I can't even begin to count the number of good dogs that have been ruined by their owners due to being schooled improperly. The major problem I have noticed is that most dog men have what I call "right now" mentality. They want to test their dogs "right now" and so they put their prospects through prolonged ordeals for little more than their entertainment. Sure, we all find what these dogs do to be entertaining, but it must be kept in mind that it is also very serious business, so it should be treated accordingly. You must look at each schooling roll as a lesson, and as such, each lesson should have a definite reason behind it. Every schooling roll should be planned well in advance, and one should put in whatever time is necessary to shop around for the correct opponent to fulfill the pre- planned objective. It is your dog's job to be good and game, but it is your job to manage the animal properly. Therefore, you do not just set your dog down at the drop of a hat, or because someone says his dog is better than yours. Each schooling lesson should have a reason, and that reason should always be in the interests of the dog's development. This is especially true with young dogs. Too many times dog men will take a young dog into its first lesson without any idea of what they're going to be running their young dog into. You should always start your dog against a somewhat smaller opponent that you know has a light mouth. The reason for this is simple: you don't want to discourage your young dog with too much on his first time out -- and your dog, when he starts, should be rewarded by being able to dominate his opponent. Your dog will be unable to do these things if his first roll is against a bone crusher that is 10 lbs. bigger than he is. Remember, in schooling, you always want to give your dog positive reinforcement, not negative reinforcement. Yet you will find many so-called "dog men" putting their young dog against the first dog they come across whether it's in their dog's interests or not. Again, they have to see something "right now," so instead of choosing the best opponent to school the dog with, they invariably wind up going into a considerably larger dog than what would have been best for their young prospect. To make things worse, they will then proceed to let the contest continue to the point where their dog not only gets its butt kicked, but they allow the dog to get exhausted too. The excuses are always the same: "Well, I couldn't find a dog my dog's size," or "I was waiting for my dog to come to the top so I could pick it up then," or -- this is the best one -- "If my dog was a real dog he could have handled it." It is an owner's job to be a real dog man every bit as much as it is a dog's job to be a real dog. Putting a dog against any old opponent for the hell of it, or letting schooling lessons go the distance every time, is not being a real dog man. It's being a "right now" man. Some dog men mean well, but they just fall victim to impatience or a lack of confidence to say "No" to a bad deal for their dog. One of the problems often found in this regard is telling a partner, or a rival kennel, that you want to school a young prospect against an opponent at a specific weight -- but when you get there the opponent's dog looks bigger than what he claimed it to be. ALWAYS INSIST ON WEIGHING BOTH DOGS BEFORE YOU PUT THEM TOGETHER. If your opponent refuses to weigh his dog, the chances are it's because he knows it's bigger than yours. If this ever happens to you, remember you are not required to set the dogs down "right now." Instead, put your dog back into the crate and go home. Next time your partners will take you more seriously when you say you want to school dogs at "x" weight. If this happens too many times, then find yourself more reputable schooling partners. If your schooling partners give you the "If your dog was a real dog..." trip, tell them if their dog was a real dog they wouldn't have to pick on smaller dogs. If you have respectable partners and your dogs are the same weight -- but your young dog happens to be getting the worst of things -- pick him up before he gets tired. Unless this was a pre-planned game test, you don't have to find out "right now" if your dog has what it takes. Remember, you are schooling your dog at this point, not game-testing him, and you don't want your dog to experience anything negative about what he's doing yet. In fact, other than the game test (which I discuss in depth under a separate heading), no schooling lesson should be longer than 15 minutes, and most should be between 5 and 10 minutes. After almost 10 years in this game, and schooling dogs in many different ways, I am positive that repeated exhaustion is the worst thing for a dog's mindset. It is much better to school a dog frequently, against opponents of varying styles, for short periods of time. Why? Because dogs form simple associations in their thinking. Most of us have heard of the famous psychologist Pavlov, whose most famous experiment was ringing a bell every time he fed his dog. Soon his dog would drool every time he heard that bell, whether or not he actually had food in front of him. Well, do you really want your dog to form a similar association between performance and extreme fatigue? That is, do you want your dog to associate something unpleasant (always getting horribly tired) with what he's supposed to like (being in the pit)? Think deeply about gameness, and then think deeply about exhaustion. Gameness is defined as an enthusiastic will to win. By contrast, serious exhaustion is no fun at all, and it can even be life-threatening (especially if associated with injury). When you school a dog, remember that in addition to developing his performance skills you are also trying to develop the dog's enthusiasm -- and if you bring about exhaustion in your dog's schooling lessons then you are defeating your purpose. There is nothing enjoyable about being dead-ass tired. Think about it. To help illustrate this point, boxers do not spar for 15 rounds every time they get in the ring for practice, either. Rather, they usually go 3 rounds and then do other exercises. No one would want to be a boxer if you were required to go through 12 to 15 rounds of hell, out of shape, every damned time you lace on a pair of gloves -- and neither will your young dog want to be a performer if it winds up tripping over its tongue, and getting the shit knocked out of it, every time it sees a pit. Use your head. This is also why you don't put your dog into a hard mouth dog either, until he gets a sense of defense and confidence first. MANY DOG MEN FUNDAMENTALLY BLOW IT BY GIVING THEIR DOGS MILD GAME TESTS WHILE THEY'RE SCHOOLING THEIR PROSPECTS, by allowing their dogs to get to the 20 - 30 minute range. At the schooling stage of your dog's development, you should not be discouraging your dog with too much of an ordeal. Once your is thoroughly schooled and fully started THEN you can game test him. A dog needs a minimum of 5 short rolls (against opponents of varying styles) to be considered thoroughly schooled, and I define a dog as fully started when he will go across on his own and take hold. (If he has to wait for the other dog to bite him first, the dog is not fully started and cannot be judged yet.) If your dog has been properly schooled, so he knows what to do against a wide variety of styles, and he is fully started, you then select an opponent that is a proven good dog, and perhaps a pound or two heavier than your dog, for the game test. Make sure that your dog is lean and healthy (but not conditioned) and parasite free before you put him through the rigors of a serious game test. Now is the time where you finally let things go the distance, and you may now pass judgment on your dog's true quality. You get to look at his overall ability throughout the long haul, his natural air, his intelligence and adaptability to each situation, how he acts in the corner and scratches, his desire to finish if things go his way -- and his deep gameness if they don't. After the smoke clears, you can happily breed the dog, show the dog -- or get rid of the dog -- but don't ever game test the dog again. The reason I say don't test your dog ever again is I have seen many people game test a dog once, and then they second-guess the test a month or so later. "I'm not sure I tested him hard enough," they think to themselves. What this means is the dog's owner lacks confidence in his own judgment, and in reality he is just scared to match the dog, or to declare him game -- so he tests the animal again. This kind of human cur basically is afraid to be wrong in his judgement in front of his peers, so he tests his dogs over and over again "just to be sure." You must face the fact that there is no amount of game testing you can do which will guarantee your dog will win a match, or that he won't quit his next time out. So once you actually game test your dog, if he passes the test then either match him after that, or breed to him -- but if you game test your dog again, then what you are doing is revealing yourself to be a cur, and a lousy manager of your dog, because you are putting excess mileage on him for nothing. For let's suppose your dog does pass a second game test, what you just did is you took one good match from his win record and threw it in the trash. Moreover, you will have put your dog through back-to-back traumas, running the risk of having your dog begin to form an association of performance and severe exhaustion. If you're going to take that risk with your dog, it may as well be for real in a match. If you match your dog and he gets stretched out again in his contest, wait several months for your dog to recover, and then "practice" with him again for 5 minutes against a dog he can easily handle -- and then do it again a month later. Once again, the reason to do this is you do not want your dog to associate performance with horrid exhaustion, because that more than anything else will ruin a dog. You may love ice cream, but if you were forced to eat 40 buckets of it several times in a row, you just might lose your taste for it after a while. Get my drift? To those "hard core" dog men out there who think I am being too soft on a dog and that this is babying a dog too much which will result in curs escaping "true testing" -- I say BULLSHIT. I don't care how game a dog has shown in the past, it can be stopped if you really want to stop it. If you doubt me then try this test: set your dog down for 40 minutes. Then set him down the next day for 40, and do it again and again, 40 minutes every damned day of his life, and believe me, he'll quit. No one would test their dogs this hard, of course, because it's unfair to the animal, and no bloodline or individual dog could pass this severe a testing process. So don't get all high and mighty about how game any dog is -- he'll quit if you test him hard enough -- or often enough -- I don't care what he's shown in the past. The point of this article is many dogs that have quit and been put down would not have quit had they been brought along properly. Your job as his owner is to try not to have him quit by managing the animal properly, and this schooling process I have outlined will help your dog along in this regard. The key to schooling a dog is to remember it is just that: schooling. You school your dog for only two reasons: 1) to develop his style and 2) to develop his confidence. Schooling is something totally different from game-testing. Once you finally game test your dog, or if he gets exhausted after any match, remember to "review" with him for a short period against an easy opponent a few months later. The bottom line is never let your dog form the association of extreme exhaustion and pit action and you will go a long way towards keeping him in there when he finds himself in the trenches. ~~Ssteff~~ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ [backlil.gif (8828 bytes)]