Around Colombo

Negombo

For a Shorter beach holiday, or as a stopover on your first or last night in Sri Lanka, Negombo,37km (23miles) north of Colombo city centre, has the virtue of being the closed beach resort to katunayake International Air port. For that reason, it also appears in a number of tour operator brochures. Nickmaed "Little Rome" because of its mumerous Catholic Churches - a survival from the period of portuguese rule - Negombo surrounds a Lagoon which is rich in fish and until the advent of tourism provides a ready market for the lagoon's prawns and lobsters, and for deep-water fish like tuna, shark and amberjack, but the picturesque twin-hulled sailing canoes are slowely being ousted by modern wooden or plastic-hulled,motor-driven boats. Nevertheless, the narrow streets and colourful stucco churches of the old part of town make Negombo acceptably picturesque for a short stay, and there are more than a dozen luxury resort hotels to choose from.

Negombo's beach is less than brilliant by Sri Lankan standards - there are other, far better beaches elsewhere -and the sea is often murky as a result of silt carried into it from the 12Km (7.5mile) lagoon and the network of freshwater channels feeding into it.

Dutch Fort
Commanding the entrance to the lagoon the ruined fort dates from 1678, according to the date inscribed above its stone gateway. It was built some 34 years after the Dutch wrested Sri Lanka from Portugal, and defended the natural harbour from which the Dutch East India Company exported cinnamon and other spices, which were the island's most valuable exports. Next to the walls is a Dutch Cemetery. Open during daylight hours.

St Mary's Church
This is most picturesque of the town's many catholic churches and chapels, Testimony to the enthusiasm with which the local Karava people adopted Catholicism under Portuguese tutelage. The Painted Ceiling is well worth a look. Open during usual church hours.

Mount Lavinia
About 11km (6miles) south of Colombo City Centre, Mount Lavinia has a beach with a potentially dangerous undertow and occasionally polluted waters which diminish the appeal of its golden sands and swaying palms. Much of its reputation rests on the charm of the Mount Lavinia Hotel. In around 1805-6 the then British Governor, Sir Thomas maitland, built an official residence here, naming it after his mistress. It was rebuilt between 1823 and 1827 by one of his successors, Edwrd barnes; it became a government rest house in 1877 and was converted into a hotel in 1895. Modern additions have obliterated much of its Old-world charm, despite attempts to maintain some continuity with its past. A Superb pool with great sea views makes up for the deficiencies of the beach.

Kalutara
This bustling village at the mouth of the Kalu Ganga, 45km (27miles) south of Colombo, was like Negombo, a very important entrepot for the cinnamon and nutmeg trades but is now better known for its Coconut palm gardens and for coconut-fibre mats, rope and baskets. kalutara also claims to have the tastiest mangosteens in sri Lanka. A purple fruit with white segmented flesh and a deliciously tart flavour, the mangosteen is said to be at its best in june.

Basket Centre
The Basket Centre is in the middle of the village. See baskets and other wares being woven from coconut fibre, with the opportunity to buy. The tough, well-made baskets come in handy if you haven't enough space in your luggage for all your other souvenir purchases, and make good gifts too. Open 08.00 - 17.00 Daily.

Gangatilaka Vihara
On the banks of the Kalu Ganga, next to the road bridge, stands the Gangatilaka vihara, a large dagoba (Buddhist Shrine) beside which stands a sacred bo-tree. The hollow dagoba has an unusual Painted interior. It is open during daylight hours. If you intend to go inside, a small cash offering, to be placed in the box fixed to the sacred tree, will be appreciated.