The Wonders of Gua Tempurung

A trip into Gua Tempurung is certainly the beginning of a journey full of wonders...

I woke up at 7 am this morning. It's not my normal get up time on a Sunday morning. My colleagues and I have arranged to assemble and meet at certain place. Everyone have to be there by 8 am. - just to be on time for the first session of the tour. There were just three cars when we arrived at the place. The laterite road was narrow and winding. It seemed like very near the entrance from the highway but it takes about 15 minutes to pass through the long and winding road. We have passed through a small Malay village, a scary wooden bridge and some beautiful ponds before reaching the cave entrance.

Well, 'Gua' Tempurung is a name of a cave situated about 40 minutes from Ipoh. Gua in Malay means cave and 'tempurung' means shell, coconut shell. Literally, it means Shell Cave.

There is a park just outside the cave entrance. It is clean and nicely maintained. We had 'nasi lemak' (coconut milk rice with slices of eggs, cucumber, chilly-anchovies or prawns, a local Malay dish for breakfast and 'teh-tarik' (a specially prepared tea with milk, whereby after preparing the tea, it will be be poured over from one container to another before been served in a glass).

The crowd was getting larger by the time we finished our breakfast. There were a few different trips, a 40 minutes walk into the cave, the 2½ hours climb and the Grand Tour which is 3½ hours. We were asked to bring along torch lights, bottle drinks and extra clothings to change.

Our initial plan was to join the 2½ hours tour but was quite embarass when we know that some elderly ladies in their 50's joined the Grand Tour. We then changed our mind and asked the tour guide to include us in for the 3½ hours tour. The expedition started on with the tour guide teaching us some geography knowledge of the rain forest in which this limestone cave lies. It is believed to be the largest natural limestone cave in Malaysia. The cave stretches 1.3km long with a river running inside from Sungai Siput (north) to Kuala Dipang near Kampar. Inside, there are five domes whose ceilings look like coconut shells and have different stalactite and stalagmite formations. As we walked along he changed the subject to science, of how those wonderful rock formation - by years of the dripping rain water reactin with the limestone were slowly built up, and later to the historical events of inside the cave.

It is litted up inside caves with electric bulbs. The cemented steps and rallyings on either sides made it easy to climb. The tour guide asked us to switch off all our torchlights and keep silent for a minute to listen to the stillness inside the cave. We could only here water dripping from the ceiling of the cave or water flowing down and also the squealing of bats.

The stalactites and stalagmites were spectacular and unbelievable ! Some took more than 250,000 years to form and stood up to more than 50 feet high. We were shown to some of the unique shapes of the limestone formation. There were shapes of monkey driving the steering, a pregnant lady with long hair, the face of an owl, a python swallowing a goat, a car, an elephant trunk and other forms of patterns. We were intrigued by some of the caves walls dotted with crystalized materials. It was like sparkling diamonds when shone with the torch light.

We were explained why it is called Gua Tempurung or Shell Cave. In those days, illegal miners went into the caves excavating for tin. They brought along coconut shells to mine (so no one will suspect that they went inside for tin pannning) in the small stream inside the cave. And they left the shells after each session. Every day there were coconuts shells flowing out from the stream inside the caves. The villagers nearby named it the Shell Cave. In many parts of the caves, we were shown to the holes dug by the miners for tin. Some were as deep as 10 feet. There were also spades, spikes and other sharp instruments displayed inside the caves, left by the miners.

The guide was friendly and liked to joke. He briefed us at every stop. It took us about an hour to reach the top of the cave but our hands were still far beyond to reach cave ceiling.

From there, we descended down the steps. We were told to watch out while walking going down. It was slippery on this part of the cave. We stopped 20 minutes later and were advised to be ready for a walk along the stream. There were no more lightings as of the place where we descended. We have to rely soley on torch lights. There was no way that we can't get our feet wet. Sands and pebbles slipped into our shoes. It made us quite incovenient for a steady walk with those pebbles inside ! By now, you would probably have an idea of what our experience would be, just like Indiana Jones ! Stalactites above us, stalagmites below us and rocks all along the stream. The water level was quite shallow. Thank God, there wasn't rain the night before.

There was a congestion in front of us. I was taken aback, those in front were doing a limbo rock in the cave. It was fun. We have to lower our back as the cave of the ceiling is about four feet above the river basin. There is no problem, we managed it this time, even with our bags shouldered behind. It stretches to about 5 metres long.

A few minutes later, the guide stopped us and showed us the iron grills which have been cut and left jutting out on both sides of the cave. The grills measured to about an inch in diameter. It was erected by the communists (during the Emergency period) horizontally from one side of the caves to the other to prevent soldiers and forest rangers from entering. It was cut off after the Peace Declaration. During the emergency period, the 8th Brigade Communist used this cave as their hideout and headquarters to hold meetings.

Our adventure continued with more surprises. Again, there was a traffic slow down. This time we have to squeeze through a narrow path along the stream. Anyone with a big waistline will have difficulties passing through. Fortunately, no one was seen stuck, left behind.

After getting passed the narrow passage, we saw a lot of marble rocks along both sides of the cave walls. They were smooth and white, probably been washed by the water for thousand of years.

We stayed together along the way and we joked as we trekked. We were discussing of another experience after this. Then there were silence in front of us. We shone our torch light and saw everyone squatting down. Well, more shocking surprise. This time we have crawl ahead with our tummy. The tunnel is wide but about 2½ feet high. This is quite a challenge. I asked my colleagues to unzip my bag to make sure that my cameras and wallet is tied in a plastic bag and so are theirs. I could feel both my palms were sliding against the sands and pebbles on the river basin. We have to wade through it. Finally, we made it!

We came to a big chamber where there were hundreds of bats clinging high above the cave. It was eerie! One or two bat droppings fell onto my hand. Up to this point we realised that our elderly counterpart weren't with us. It is hard to believe that the elderly can managed this.

Before long, we saw light. Everybody was so happy that there is day light. We were now at the other side of the cave opening. We climbed up and saw the an open grassy land and highway above it. The guide asked us to rest for a while for that we have to return to where we came from !!!! Oh, Holy Cow! We were agaped. I can't imagine how we have to 'replay' that all over again.

We rested for a while and posed for some photographs. I don't know why our return trekking was faster. Maybe this time we were following the flowing of water current, or maybe we experience now.

Upon reaching the central point, the guide briefed us on the continuing journey. The expedition is not yet over! This time it we have to do something more challenging. We will have to slide on a big limestone wall to continue our journey back. At this time, only about of the the big group of 60 wanted to continue. The rest will return by the stair way, where we descended.

One by one, we slided down It is about 10 feet down below. We watched them sliding down with fun. My friends and I were among the last few to try. Earlier on, there was another group with a different tour guide who have slided down. From above, we could see them congregating with their torch lights, discussing some difficult and strategic tasks. After slided down, we only realised that it was not a discussion but they were surrounding an opening, which is in a shape of a human eye. It measured to a 2½ feet length and 1 feet wide. The hole is about four feet deep. One after another we went down. It was another tier below with streams flowing through! "Oh, Hell", somebody shout.

This section of the cave is smaller but with a lot of stalactites hanging like a lantern above. We could touch them. We were told that it took about 50 years to form an inch long of a stalactite and stalagmite. If the cave is 10 feet high, it will take at least 6,000 years for the stalactite and stalagmite to meet and join!!!

We continued walking and in 5 minutes we could see the lightings. Oh gosh, we are almost back. We were glad that we finally made it without any untoward incident. We couldn't believe that we have been inside for 3½ hours. And we were also surprise to see there were many people outside the entrance and in the park. I counted about 10 big buses loaded with people.

Everybody was quite tired and wet. We took off our shoes and socks. Sands and pebbles fell off from the shoes. People getting closer to look. We were like clowns. Then, there were questions pouring in from the crowd...

I am not very fond of caves but it certainly a very interesting experience and maybe, I'd be tempted to do it again.


Sunday, 12th December 1998

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