For anyone used to being part of the smallest of the mainstream denominations, or to the blank look when people hear the name ‘United Reformed Church’, Geneva is a strange experience. There on the hill in the very centre of the city is the huge church of St Pierre – not a Roman Catholic cathedral but the mother church of the Reformed tradition around the world. And in the Parc des Bastions stands the immense Wall of the Reformers, dominated by four fifteen foot statues of Reformation heroes whose names are little known in England.

Perhaps John Knox, the driving force behind Presbyterianism in Scotland might stir some recognition, but not Guillaume Farel – the first to preach the Reformation in Geneva – or Theodore Beza, one of the first leaders of the Reformed city of Geneva in the 16^th century. And how many would have much idea about John Knox’s good friend, the exiled Frenchman and first leader of Reformed Geneva – Jean Calvin?

This year is the 500^th anniversary of the birth of the man whose writings, preaching and political leadership in Geneva did more than any other to define what was to become the largest of the ‘Protestant’ traditions.  Calvin’s ideas of religious toleration, representative government, constitutional monarchy, establishing the rights and liberties of citizens and the Christian work ethic laid the foundations for both the Industrial and Scientific revolutions and so a major contribution to the development of the prosperous industrial civilizations of the West.

In England, probably few people will note the anniversary, though there is a programme of suitably erudite events odd locations like the Swiss embassy. North of the border in Scotland, where Reformed Christians form the largest – rather than the smallest – grouping, on the continent and elsewhere around the world, it will be very different. Throughout July in Geneva, Calvin’s life will be portrayed in outdoor theatrical performances and there are events in major cities around the world. You can book a 10 day holiday visiting some of the major sites associated with Calvin’s life, you can buy special Calvin beer and Calvin vintage wines – there is even a commemorative box of chocolates.

But Calvin was not some kind of chocolate-box saint. He was a complex man and a man of his time. Looked at from a 21^st century perspective it is impossible not to be shocked by Calvin’s concurrence in the burning of the Unitarian ‘heretic’ Michael Servetus, but in the context of the time Servetus’ denial of the existence of the Trinity seemed like an undermining of the very foundations of society. In the 20^th century Reformed Christians from around the world would erect a statue in apology.

Yet flawed as he was, Calvin attempted something magnificent – to base a whole society on the values of compassion and justice he found in scripture. His writing and preaching reshaped the understanding of Christian faith for millions over the following centuries – and they still speak to a world where the weak are denied dignity and justice.