Sock Calculations
Decide what kind of top your sock will have before making any calculations to save you time later. Cuffs may
need a separate swatch.
Your Gauge: Sts and rows measured over 1 cm
Stitches _____ (Sts) Rows _____ (Rows)
Main tension _______
Ribber Tension is main tension -2 when knitting rib cuff
Ribber Tension is main tension + 2 when knitting circular.
Your Measurements:
a. Length of foot _____ cm minus 10 cm = _____ cm
b. Measurement around foot _____ cm
(see instructions for measuring your foot for accurate measurement)
c. Measurement around Ankle _____ cm
d. Length of sock from floor to top of cuff - 5 cm _____ cm
e. Ribbing Length _____ cm
Calculation:
f. Number of Sts _____ x (B) _____ _____ sts
g. Rib length (E) _____ x Rows _____ _____ R
h. # of Rows x (D) _____ - _____(G) x2 _____ R
i. # of Rows _____ x (A) _____ x 2 _____ R
j. (F) _____ divided by 2 _____ then divided by 3 _____ sts
this will give you the sts to short row to for the heel
Sock instructions. (* indicates hint...see bottom of page)
1. *Cast on _____ (f) required number of stitches from your
sock sizing calculations.
2. RC 000. Knit rib (or cuff) for _____(e) rows.
3. Transfer stitches to main bed. Knit till carriage is on left
side of bed. (Max. 2 rows)
4. *Set up stitches for Circular knitting. Set machine for
circular as instructed in your manual. Set tension dials.
MB _____ RB _____
5. Knit _____(h) rows circular(make this an even number)
6. *Set carriage for stockinette. and engage russell levers (set
carriage to hold). Pulling out 1 needle closest to carriage
each time, short row heel to ____(k) sts Pull last needle knit
into hold position (creating an automatic wrap) push 2 ndls
on opposite side away from carriage into work. Knit 1 row.
Continue until last 2 needles on left have been put back into
work. 2 needles remain in hold on right side. Using 2 prong
transfer tool, push these needles back to WP. Set carriage
for circular, disengage russell levers. Knit 2 rows.
7. RC 000. MT. Knit _____(i) Rows circular.
8. **Dec 1 st each end of each bed (4 sts decreased) fully
fashioned using 3 prong tool. Push empty needles out of
work, knit 4 circular rows.(Each bed knits twice).** Repeat
from ** to ** until there are _____(k) sts plus 8 stitches =
_____ sts remaining on each bed.
9. ***Decrease 2 sts on each end of each bed (8 stitches
decreased) Fully fashioned using three pronged tool, knit 1
circular row***. Repeat until _____ (k) sts remain.
10. *Knit several rows waste yarn, take off machine and graft
toe.
11. Make second sock the same.
*Hints:
1. I usually do an e-wrap for a rib that will go to the ankle so that
it will be more roomy at the calf.
4. Set carriage to hold (russell levers)and pull all needles on right
side of centre"0" to HP. Remove sts on left side of centre "0" onto
several rows of WY finishing with COL. Push empty needles to NWP.
Return remaining needles to WP with a transfer tool. Fold the ribbing
in half, with the side edges together. Hang claw weights through both
sides of cuff. Thread carriage with MY and push ribber up and drop
1 notch. Pick up stitches at waste yarn and put on corresponding needles on
the ribber. Carefully remove waste yarn. Engage ribber bed.
5. For a long sock leg... start with a higher tension and decrease
tension as you knit to accommodate the size of the calf...
6. At this point you can drop your ribber carriage 1 notch and put on your
stockinette arm. But I prefer not to. I place a piece of re-useable
scotch tape over my ribber stitches to protect them while I short row
my heel...remember to remove it before you return to circular knitting.
And don't forget weights.... I sometimes hold that part of the knitting
with my hand... looks funny leaning over with my arm under the machine
holding the sock, but once you get something to hang on to you can hang
a weight.(But I usually hang on to the weight too... just to make sure
nothing goes wrong.
10. Before I knit the waste yarn I use my double eyed transfer tool to
thread the main yarn tail through between the beds so that when I am
ready to graft it is already in position. It is important to knit a
lot of rows of waste yarn so that there is no chance of unraveling
the sts before you graft the toe.