BEACON HILL

Beacon Hill can be found in Shek Kip Mei and its views look out over Kowloon towards Hong Kong Island. The old airport - Kai Tak- including runway can be seen clearly most of the time. When Kai Tak was in use Beacon Hill was below the landing path with jets flying low over the site! To the East along the Maclehouse trail is Lion Rock, another very popular climbing spot.

It is very convenient to get to from the city and is the most accessible outdoor site in Hong Kong. It has a good range of climbs from 5 through to 7c mostly bolted by Rocky Lok. Recently, some unnecessary bolts have been added on the easiest climbs, including the bolting of a natural protection route. The time spent doing this probably would have been better spent developing the face to the right of Akin rock.

Getting There:

Take the MTRC to Shek Kip Mei Station on the Quarry Bay (Green) line and come out of the station at exit A. Directly outside the station catch the 32M minivan to the old deserted temporary housing "On Choon Koy". The cost is $3.7 and on entry to the bus you have to tell the driver to go to the temporary housing (On Choon Koy). The ride takes 10 minutes and on getting off you need to hike up the steps to the waterworks and then across the road and up through the bush to the site. The hike up takes about 20 mins.

Alternately from getting out of Shek Kip Mei station at the same exit, catch a taxi to the Waterworks. You will need to ask the taxi driver to go to "Bak Gar San soy tong". It is easier to tell the driver to go to Pheonix House (Fung Lik Lo) on Lung Yan Road (Previously Lung Cheung Road) and when you get there tell him to continue up the road (jek syuung) until the waterworks. This will cost about $35 at the most and will cut the hiking time to 10 minutes.

View of old airport at Kai Tak

Beacon Hill popular routes:

King Cobra 5: Until the silly bolting, this was a very nice and easy natural pro crack climb. Good for teachings beginners on (and probably the reason it got bolted). Route is located in centre of rockface and follows the line of the crack

One Eyed Snake 6a: Another nice beginners route. This is the first climb to the right as you get to the rockface. Safe, but high first bolt and early crux to easy face climb with many pockets. Finishes with a nice slight overhang. Ignore the new bolts on the right.

Blue Cross 6a+: Ignore the very first bolt as it is pointless. The actual 'first bolt is high, just under a overhang and can be scary, especially when the rock is wet. From under the overhang, the climb is a pumpy but nice climb to a shelf that you can set up anchors from.

Spitting Cobra 6b: To the left of King Cobra, this climb gets its name from the shape of the rock at the top. The line follows a corner which uses nice stemming to a crux on a small shelf just after the 3rd bolt with not much to use. Top out after the 4th bolt to set up anchors. Nice view from above the climb. Be careful not to get your rope caught in the crack when cleaning the climb.

Angels Wing 6b+: On face that is shaped like an 'angels wing'. Grade is lowered if you climb up the crack. Very awkward footwork with small holds and slopers to 4th bolt and top.

Pressure 6c+: Same start as Blue cross. 1st crux starts at 3rd bolt with tiny undercling and sidepull to tinier and painful holds followed by final crux at top on very tiny crimps. Scary!

Geordie under 'pressure' 6c+

Yan Pui leads '1 eyed snake' 6a

Ron attempts onsite of 'Lizard' 7a

Will Gary redpoint?!

Fat boys can climb too!

Fred

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