A large proportion of the climbs here were bolted by Danny Ng and range from 5 through to 8a. The scenery around the cliffs is amazing with crashing waves smashing into the rocks all around and a larger than life view of cliffs to the left of technical wall. It's no wonder that technical wall is so popular.
Some of the most popular climbs at Technical Wall:
Small roof 6a+: This is a very nice climb towards the middle of technical wall following a pumpy climb up a crack to the small roof which gives the climb its name, and then over the roof to a balancy finish.
Big hand 6a: This climb is a few climbs to the left of small roof, and although is graded lower, feels alot more difficult. I have been told that the reason for this is a hold at the crux by the roof has broken off. The climb is very pumpy throughout and follows a diagonal line up to below a large overhang, and then around it up to the anchors. The last clip before the top has a bit of a runout.
Big roof 6c+: To the right of small roof, big roof is actually called bad man, but to alot of the regulars it's simply the big roof. Another very nice climb where your body tends to naturally find the right positions to the roof. It shares the same anchors as small roof but the regulars tend to stop the climb at the last clip (cos small roof is so busy!). Officially, the big roof follows the same line up the crack as small roof, but then traverses to under the big roof and over.
Black Ring (rain) 6c: A slightly overhanging climb which traverses diagonally to the left with some quite reachy moves onto a section moving straight up to the anchors. This climb is one of the climbs to the far left of Technical Wall.
Dimpleface 7b+: A very popular route to the left of Big hand which is full of tiny holds to a massive shelf for a big rest before more tiny holds to the top.
If you ever go to Technical wall, be wary of the 'Trapeze bros'. These are the topropers who climb on the free side of a rope which is still clipped into the quickdraws who come off and swing with a tendency to swing into other climbers or belayers knocking them off or giving them a bit of a headache.
Not so jolly Fred on Jolly boy 7c
Danny Ng
Air Rico! Taking a whipper on Badman 6c+
Technical Wall
Getting There:
Take the MTR to Sai Wan Ho and catch a boat from the Ferry Pier:
Boat Times:
Cost: $28 return