Week-----1-----2-----3----4----5-----6----7
Grow-----2.5---3-----3----4----4-----4----4
Bloom---10----12---14---16---16---16---16
Micro-----6-----6-----7----8----8-----8----8
Ml per Gallon
You should Leach your system between the veg and the flower cycle or
your plants may stretch. This is also designed for a 9 week strain so if
you have a 7 week strain only go to 5 weeks then leach. As you can see
weeks 5-6 and 7 are the same anyways
This is a feeding program for active hydroponic systems. All measures are in millilitres (ml)
Babies:
Micro
Gro
Bloom
Vitamax
Super Oxy
2.5
5
2.5
10
0
Teens
Micro
Gro
Bloom
Vitamax
Super Oxy
Week 1
5
10
3
10
0
Week 2
6
12
3
10
1.5
- This is the highest concentration
that you would ever use during the grow cycle, even if you grow for 2 more
weeks.
Adults
Micro
Gro
Bloom
Vitamax
Super Oxy
Week 1 6
2.5
10
0
1.5
Week 2 6
3
12
0
1.5
Week 3 7
3
14
5
1.5
Week 4 8
4
16
5
1.5
Week 5 8
4
16
5
1.5
Week 6 8
4
16
5
1.5
Week 7 8
4
16
5
1.5
For dirt farmers, this is an alternating program where you water once
and then you feed once. Don't forget to flush.
:::clones into 1in. pretreated at 5.3 ph, and Vit. B1in RW cubes, after
3 days remove humd. dome and water twice a day with equal amounts of Gen
Hydro-----PPM@ 5 --5.8 PH Let drain very well, no water
sitting in the bottom of trays. If anything, tip trays so that clones
do not fall out and let drain through a hole in bottom of one corner of
tray. Let sit that way for 3 to 5 min. { look at your watch!}----Roots
in 7 days!!
-------------------------------micro-------bloom--------grow-----in that order!
--rooted clones 1wk. = 15------------15------------15------PPM=7
---------veg---------2wk. = 20------------10------------30------PPM=9
---------bud---------1wk. = 15-------------30-----------15------PPM=10
----------------------3wk.= 20-------------30-----------10------PPM=10
- bloosom blood added at this time
----------------------6wk.= 10--------------30-----------10------PPM=10
------flush with clearing solution last 12 days of an 8 wk
bud!-------epson salts 1.5 tsp. per 5 gal.--------PPM would be at 10
to 12 or at what ever your girls can handle. Just use those
ratio`s.-------All measurments in ml per 5 gal bucket. Tops pinched
back on day 10 of veg, RO water if possible! PH at 5.8--------Yeild
should be in the 1.5 to 2 oz a 14in to 16in plant range, if not get
a
better strain!----LOL!!-----Oh ya, thats in Aero by the way-----Yea
haaa!!!! as if it was in dirt,{ rub rub, wink wink! }
:::::OK here goes!!!:::::
-----All are in ml per 5 gal bucket-----oxymoreon?
--rooted clones = 5ml micro, 5ml bloom, 5ml grow
2nd.wk of grow= 10ml micro,4ml bloom,8ml grow
4th wk + on = 15ml micro,8ml bloom,30ml grow
---12+12, = 15ml micro, 15ml bloom, 15ml grow
2nd wk. = 15 ml micro, 30 ml bloom, 15 grow
4th wk. = 8ml micro, 40ml bloom, 15ml grow
7th wk.+ on = 0ml micro, 60ml bloom, 15ml grow
----use clearing solution for the last 12 days
Looking back with the 0 amount of micro in the end. It should pose no
problems to the girls with not having any micro nutr. for the last wk
of nutrs. before clearing!
Will send the one that i`m going to use a little later
Posted by Orchid man on January 06, 1999 at 21:32:03
In Reply to orchid man "come back" posted by cedartop.
CA(NO3)2 calcium nitrate veg= 1.5 gram/liter flower:
2.0 gr/l
KNO3 Potassium nitrate veg= .7 gram/liter flower:
0
KH2PO4 Monopotassium phosphate .5 gram/l Flower:
0.5 gram/liter
MgSO4 Magnesium sulfate veg= .8 gr/liter flower:
0.8
Trace element 0.1 gr/l flower: 0.1
Always mix the Nutes in the order shown above in
a full tub of water.
Mix the calcium Nitrate well before adding the others.
If you see a overfeeding look
on the top leaves, lower the calcium Nitrate Rinse
the medium once or twice a week. the recipe depend of the type
of water used too. It is a base formula to start
with.
In the flowering period , in the last month, start
lowering the calcium nitrate so that on
the last 2 weeks you would be at 0.5 gr/liter or
less.
I'LL post later on the subject . Frenchie.
Posted by Orchid man on December 15, 1998 at 14:43:51
In Reply to Re: fert and PH posted by DelcampO.
Geeezz i like answers like this. This is the kind
of discussions i am looking for. I wish i was as diplomat and
fine writer like you. But unfortunatly i am not
:)I am a rough, short fused ,undiplomatic and grouchy old fart.
maybe reading messages like yours and ~shabang~
will teach me how to act properly here. I am working on it :)
You got it right bro. If i would be newbie, i would
not start with salt fert. It is simply too complicated. But when i
did start growing many years ago, GH wasn't on the
market yet,so i have had to learn to work with salt fert.
And since then i can compare the difference between
both type of fert. from seeing other crop of my friends who
are using GH. And they keep asking me how to get
the harsh taste out of their weed. But they wouldn't switch for
salts, so i sure don't expect to convert everyone
here :)
I never did work with organic fert, since i wouldn't
have a clue about what is going on in the substract when i
would be adding some chem fert like GH. Impossible
to know because of the large amount of mineral in organic
fert, combine with Chemical fert, end up being a
brew too hard to control. I don't like to not knowing what is going
with my fertilization.
The only thing i can say is as long as urea nitrate
is used, it will be very hard to get a smooth taste with the
finished product. urea Nitrate seem to stick forever
in the plant and is so hard to wash out. My friend have tried
to rinse with water only for 2 weeks prior harvesting
and they still have this harsh taste, and i don't. I don't cure
neither. It is on the market 5 days after harvesting
with no harsh taste and very sweet.
Those who are using organic fert should not add micronutrient
before half way thru the growing process.
It is less harmfull to lack a bit of micronutrient
than to have too much of them. Many peoples are overfeeding,
wich create super problems. Don't forget that the
guys selling the product wants you to use as much as possible ,
they want to make money. I suggest to those who
want to do a test, to have a few plants with half the fert you are
using for the other plants and see for yourself.
Can you beleive i have been fertilizing my KONG weed
only twice a week so far? and do they ever grow fast
these guys.
You can see when your plant is ready for another
shot of fert because of the top leaves getting paler green.
The main thing is better less fert than too much.
when nutrient start to lock up it is very hard to know what to use
to undo this since we can't know exactly what is
locked up with what. if you don't overfertilize you won't get fert
lock up. Micronutrient are the most touchy part
about fertilizing. It has to do with the kind of water you are
using.
Other thing that growers should know is the amount
of oxygen the roots system get. OK ,P2O5 has 5 atoms of
oxygen for 2 phosphorus,but as soon as you balance
your ph the O5 is reacting and oxydize turning iron to rust
and zn to who knows what, instead of giving the
oxygen to the roots.
This is why it is an incredible mess to describe.
If anyone wants to learn more about all of this go
to this url . EVERYTHING is there. Full course on nutrient and
all.:http://res.agr.ca/harrow/bk/toma99.htm
Doesn't matter if they talk about tomatoes, super
site to learn about ferts. read the section about Soil reaction (ph)
they know what they are talking about. Will save
me a lot of typing :) i hope this help Bye for now and thanx for
the input. I needed that :)
Anyone using Salt fert?
Posted by Frenchie on December 25, 1998 at 12:54:39
I would give some tricks about salt fert only if
there are someone using this kind of fertilizer right now,or intend
too. It would be useless for me to post on salt
fert if nobody plan to use it. If there is someone who is starting
with salt fert, let me say this: don't be surprise
to see larger leaves and paler as well. Don't overuse Nitrate to try
to get the same dark green as GH would do, the leaves
are very happy with this paller green. The plant will grow
much faster than with other type of fert so you
will have to watch closely cause it will go fast and you will have
to keep track of the calcium Nitrate ,because it
is the only Composant of all the familly to watch for. Calcium
Nitrate does wonder but can kill the plant too if
missused. The other composants will stay the same ratio during
all the plant life, only the amount will vary.
You don't have to use K2SO4 ,instead raise the KH2PO4
and KN03, slightly. Overfeeding is easily recognised
with salt Fert because of the rapidity of this type
of ferts to work.
If you start seeing Nitrate overfert, Rinse the
medium and let the plant drink the water. you won't burn them
unless you fertilize when the medium is too dry.
Over feeding with P or K is very rare with salt fert . The only
one to watch for will be the Micro nute, don't overuse
it, and the Calcium Nitrate. If i get some peoples interested
on this subject, i will post later on the WONDER
of Calcium Nitrate and all the Good things this stuff can do to
your plant. Friendly yours Frenchie ... O.M. is
gonne
Re: Testing ferts Precisions
Posted by Orchid man on January 02, 1999 at 15:25:23
In Reply to Re: Testing ferts no questions posted by Old Bud.
I hand water ,in Promix#4, i use a garbage container
about 80 liter. One is filled with water and Monophosphate
potassium KH2PO4 (one small plastic fert cup) Micro
nutes and one tea spoon of MgSO4 (half a fert
cup)depending if the water in your locality is hard
or soft. hard water contain enough Magnesium , Calcium and
sulfates to do the job. I use this Mix for Washing
twice a week. If the promix is too dry, use plain water ,wait 2
hours then fertilize.
The other container is filled with the full recipe.Smaller
the plant ,more water i use (to let the medium get dry
,good for the roots). The solution has to be as
fresh as possible, not cold.When you fill up the reservoirs, make
sure to make as much bubbling with the hose to oxygenate
the water. At the rate the plants will drink,you should
never have some old solution. When flowering,i use
half and half (both reservoir)so i can play with the Nitrates.
Fresh Promix should keep his PH in good shape aqll
the way. Overwatering degrade the peatmoss . With salt ferts
to tell you the thruth, the last time i did check
the PH was 15 years ago and was neutral so i never checked it again
since. The only way i can see if something goes
wrong is by looking at the leaves and the way they grow. The
growth will be very consistant, so if something
goes wrong,you can see it. The only fert to watch is like i said
calcium Nitrate, this stuff on an very thirsty (dry)
will kill it in 4 hours. If you see the tip of the leaves turning
brown, flush with water and let it dry and pray.
I 'll stop here for now. waiting for questions.
KH2PO4 is monopotassium phosphate
Posted by pegs on January 03, 1999 at 15:53:08
In Reply to Re: Testing ferts Precisions posted by Orchid man.
calling it monophosphate potassium may get some
strange looks across the counter, better to call it
monopotassium phosphate. True there is only one
phosphorus atom per molecule and thus "mono = one" says
monophosphate is fine, the ambiguity in the compound
is the number of potassium atoms present as the
phosphate can attract one, two or three potassiums,
thus it is better to specify "monopotassium phosphate" and
there'll be no ambiguity as to the number of potassium
atoms per phoshate compound.
Re: reservoir
Posted by O.M. on January 03, 1999 at 12:35:10
In Reply to Re: Testing ferts Precisions posted by Old Bud.
Using a heater would do, just make sure you make
some Bubling each day to keep the oxygen level nice. if you go
with a Pump system,then the water get oxyganeted
with the flow and spraying. One can for example: make a new
solution, go with it for one day, if half the solution
is left in the reservoir,add water for the next day. Then discard
waht's left ,to get a fresh solution on the third
day. The best is to be able to use the solution as quickly as possible
but i sometime use the same solution for up to 4
days if i don't have enough plants and too much solution.
Re: 1 kong= 5 liters a day
Posted by O.M. on January 03, 1999 at 13:35:23
In Reply to Re: 9 liter a day posted by O.M..
These kong plants drink like creasy ,up to 5 liter
each a day. They are 4 feet high without the pot, very branchy.
Re: 1 kong= down to three
Posted by O.M. on January 03, 1999 at 19:01:40
In Reply to Re: 1 kong= 5 liters a day posted by O.M..
After stretching wich was minimal the Kong went
down to a more normal level as water intake.... When one plant
is processing at least one liter of fluid a day,
you can say ...it is in shape and growing. 2 liter a day, you're in
business. :)