I arrived in Louisville late Saturday night. The next morning a friend and I saw the local sights, including Churchill Downs. Sunday’s performance was at the beautiful Louisville Palace. “Designed by noted architect John Eberson, the theatre opened at 10:15 a.m. Saturday, September 1, 1928 at a purported cost of over two million dollars--a whole lot of money in those days. Although its facade is dynamic in appearance, it doesn't provide a clue as to the immensity and spectacular design of the interior of the theatre. Upon entering the lobby and grand foyer, the Spanish Baroque motif begins its development. Cobalt blue, bursts of red and gold indirectly light all of the niches, coves
and entrances. Above the Spanish treasures there is a curved, vaulted ceiling with 139 carvings of the eternal greats. In a central portion one finds plaster busts of Socrates, Beethoven, Dante and even John Eberson himself! In any direction there is something magnificent to please the eye and spark the imagination.”
Monday morning we headed for the southeastern part of the state, passing by the beautiful bluegrass area of Lexington, before reaching Kentucky’s Appalachian mountains. Since my first, personal recollections are of living in my own holler-of-sorts in the Colorado Rockies, a very tangible sense of peace comes over me when I find myself in a similar mountainous locale. The area is very beautiful and I can understand Dwight's fondness for it.
Our first stop is the Mountain Arts Center. “The idea for the Center was conceived six years ago by a retired music teacher, Ms. Billie Jean Osborne, widely recognized for her dedication to music education
and her ability to motivate young people. Armed with an appreciation of the natural music talent abundant in our midst and unwilling to take no for an answer, Billie Jean set out on a mission. As a result of her enthusiasm and persistence, Eastern Kentucky is home to a facility that is truly a gem to those who enjoy viewing and hearing young talent.” –Best Read Guide Kentucky.
Wanting to make the most of the area history, we had decided to stay at the May Lodge at Jenny Wiley State Park. “Named for a brave pioneer woman who survived Indian capture in the area, Jenny Wiley resort is known as a polished mountain retreat.” The rooms are rustic in quite a lovely way and the view from our room was
so peaceful; I could definitely see coming back for a vacation. For the time being we stayed just long enough to leave our bags and head down Pikeville and Betsy Layne way. It was nice to imagine Dwight as a young boy in the area visiting his grandparents, perhaps running down to the Post Office or stopping at a local dairy bar for ice cream. And to see the sights that are such an integral part of Dwight’s early music ~ standing on a bridge over The Big Sandy, with Route 23 in the background, coming across a coal mine out past the holler and wondering if it could be the one his grandfather walked to and from each day. It made for a feeling of profound connection with the music.
Our next stop was Cincinnati and The Taft theater where the highlight, for me, was hearing Dwight perform South of Cincinnati live for the first time.
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If you ever get south of Cincinnati,
down where the dogwood trees grow
If you ever get south of the Mason Dixon
to the home you left so long ago
If you ever get south of the Ohio River
down where Dixieland begins
If you ever get south of Cincinnati
I'll be yours again."
~South of Cincinnati. D. Yoakam