Saturday
Obviously having a stupid day (I felt ill, okay?) and couldn't figure out a Metro to the hotel (Hotel de Nevers at La Place de la Republique) from the Gare du Nord because I was actually looking at a bus map, so we walked. Got the route wrong on foot as well, but we got there in the end, dumped our bags, and headed off out. We wanted to meet some other friends who were in Paris as well, just for the day, and I got a text from one of them saying they were on the Champs-Elysees and would be free to meet us for coffee a few hours later, so we took the Metro to Concorde to walk up the Champs-Elysees. It's quite a walk, but it's pleasant; and it's one of those things you can do just to say that you've done it! I still think the Grande Roue is vulgar, by the way.We eventually found somewhere we could afford to have lunch on the Champs-Elysees - something else you do to say you've done it. Leon de Bruxelles, opposite Virgin, who do a damn good plate of mussels. Tim had a random fish thing, which we think was whitebait. Stupidly expensive, but hey.
By the time we'd finished eating, the girls were ready for that coffee. We'd intended to go to the Haagen-Dazs shop for coffee, but that's beyond stupidly expensive, and it was packed - so we went to a tabac just off the Avenue which had space for us and where we could afford a beer. When we'd finished our drinks we walked to the Arc de Triomphe, in time to see the Eiffel Tower doing its strobe thing. The girls had to go then, but Tim, Harris and I decided to go up the Arc. Happily it's half-price if you're under 25, but probably worth the full price if you go at night. It was a clear night and you can see the illuminated Grande Roue in one direction, up to the Grande Arche de la Defense in the other, plus the Eiffel Tower (it's a shame we didn't see the strobe from the top) and, although it sounds weird to say it, the lights on the cars on each of the roads making up the Etoile are beautiful as well. It's fun watching the traffic below, as well, trying to figure out how on earth the system works and laughing at the near-misses, people reversing on the roundabout, complete gridlocks and suicidal motorcyclists.
After that, we went back to Republique and got happily pissed. We started off in an extremely nice bar/restaurant, with more of a pub style than I've ever seen in France, not too expensive and with very good service. Nice building, too; most French bars I know are just a little run down and manky. But then that's true of just about everything in Haute-Marne.
Decided to move on after that, partly because Tim was craving McDonalds. We ate, then found another bar; not quite such a nice building as the first, but affordable and with very pleasant staff.
Sunday
We'd decided last night to go to the Eiffel Tower this morning, but it was raining and foggy so we went anyway. Cliched it may be, but it's still an impressive sight as you come out of Trocadero Metro station, pass the high wooden fences on the road works and suddenly there it is! Always larger than you expected. The top floor was closed for works, but we went up to the second, which is quite impressive enough - usually. Today, we could see bugger all through the mist and rain, and it was bloody freezing as well, so we went inside, tried and failed to buy a coffee and some food because they don't take Visa, and gave up and went down again. Searched the area for lunch in the wind and rain, found everywhere was shut, so headed back to Republique, knowing McDonalds would be open. Instead, we found somewhere just as acceptable and much more French, where I had a top salmon with bearnaise sauce and rice.Refreshed, we went to l'Ile de la Cite and Notre Dame, where a mass was just about to start. Still, we had the chance for a quick look around. There's no point in me talking about the cathedral here; you already know how impressive it is.
After that, we went to the crypte archeologique in front of the cathedral. It's well hidden, looking like one of the entrances to the underground car park, and the last time I was there it was shut, but I've finally been. It's fascinating; until the start of the 19th century the area in front of the cathedral was covered in poor housing, and a foundlings' hospital. The foundations, cellars and in one case hypocaust heating system are still there, and were recently discovered. Fascinating stuff.
From the cathedral, we crossed the river and walked through the quartier latin. I absolutely love it there; when you've spent a while in Saint-Dizier missing the restaurants in Canterbury it was a real balm to the spirit to see such an enormous variety of different foods from different cultures, especially in such pretty surroundings - a real maze of narrow, winding streets. I could happily spend a year eating in that tiny area - if I was a lot richer than I am now. We were drink-hunting; after gasping at the prices on most menus we settled somewhere which was in the middle of its happy hour and stayed there until it ended.
After happy hour, we had a McDonalds then went back to Republique. We went back to yesterday's bars, but they were both shut so we went somewhere else - entirely staffed and populated by Africans, which was slightly scary to start with but actually they were really friendly and welcoming. The manager even welcomed us and chatted for a while (in good English).