Anti Lag	Blancing	Blow Off Valve	Boost Controller
Catalytic Converter	Clutch	Detonation	Drivetrain
Flywheel	Head Work	Intercooler	Manual Transmission
Rotors	Turbo	Turbo Timer	Water Injection

The clutch allows you to connect and disconnect the engine and the transmission, both starting up and during shifts. Friction plates route the rotation of the engine crankshaft to the gears, and then to the wheels. It takes the rotation up slowly, so that you aren't off to a screeching start. In a manual transmission, you disengage the clutch when you press the pedal down. The pedal works the thrust pad, and it presses levers in the middle of the clutch cover. Doing all this lifts the pressure plate away from the clutch plate. The flywheel (which is turned by the crankshaft from the transmission shaft) gets disconnected. When you lift the clutch pedal, springs force the pressure plate and clutch plate against the flywheel. The clutch plate friction linings allow it to slide before becoming engaged. The sliding causes a smooth start instead of a jolt.

The clutch cover (pressure plate) provides the clamping force for the clutch plate. The greater the clamping force the less chance the clutch plate will slip when driven hard.

The clutch plate is a thin, steel, disc. Its center is connected to the transmission input shaft by a grooved piece of metal, or hub. The disc is covered with material that is similar to the break linings. This material allows the clutch to slip smoothly and quietly. This is what most affects the "feel" of the clutch engagement. The range and "feel" of pedal travel between disengaged, and fully engaged, is determined by the cushioning spring between the sides of the fiber disc (or lack of), and by the sprung center piece (or lack of) between the outer engagement material, and the spline center going to the transmission. The cushioning spring between the engagement sides increases the range of pedal travel between "starting" to engage, and fully engaged. This is due to the pressure plate having to compress the spring to fully clamp on the disc. The discs without this spring are a very much more "abrupt" grab, which makes them harder to drive smoothly on the street.

Discs with the fiber lining wear at normal rates, under normal driving conditions, but disintegrate if overheated, and/or driven REAL hard and abused.

The metal fiber "puck" type discs, for the most part, wear the flywheel and pressure plate faster than the disc. They will take much more heat and punishment before failure, but do not like to be "slipped" very much (burns up the flywheel/pressure plate first).

The discs with the sprung center section do not transmit as much shock loading to the drive train, so they are much easier on transmissions and rear ends. They also give you an increase in the time between "just about engaged but not moving much yet" and fully engaged.