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| 1) select a straight to slightly curved branch that is at least 3 feet long, and about the diameter of a finger. Avoid branches with two bends, or "S" curves |
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| 2) this is where you start to really appreciate the saw blade |
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| 3) before you cut it to length, measure it from your sternum to the tip of your fingers. That should be the right size for you. Don't settle for to much shorter |
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| 4) about 2" from the wider end make two parallel cuts, about 1/2" apart and 1/4" deep on the backside of the bend of the bow. Use your knife blade to wedge the piece out leaving a notch |
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| 5) on the opposite end your going to make a 1/8"wide notch 1/4"deep and 1/4" from the end. Both cuts/notches are on the same side of the bow |
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| 6) the front notch will be more of a "V" notch to secure the bowstring. If you have to cut toward yourself it is best to use the saw, keep the fingers back, and ease up on the down-pressure |
| Again, I seem to depart from the norm. Dead, rigid branches seem to be used by most of my colleagues. Granted, it is somewhat difficult to find a three foot, finger width green branch that is both rigid as well as slightly c-curved, but it works well when you find the right combination. Besides, shopping for the perfect branch is half the fun. Willow, maple, oak, and buckthorn all work well. I usually debark them so they will last indefinately. I find that fir, pine and other conifers are too flexible and will not hold the bowstring tight enough to spin the drill. |
| Making a Bow |
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