After a wonderful sail from the Berry's, we pulled into Nassau without a
hitch. You have to "check in" with Nassau Harbor Control on the vhf radio when you arrive or
depart but I had a hard time understanding them. I could swear they called themselves
"Masa Baba Cuntol", like they were real strict about haircuts or maybe all the braiding going
on at the cruise ship docks...there are no 'r's in the Bahamas, and they talk with a slight British
accent...real fast! I must admit, when we stopped back in Nassau on the return trip, we had no
problem understanding them. I thought we just became accustomed to them, until I remembered that the Harbor Control in
George Town sounded the same as the 1st Harbor Control in Nassau. Did they transfer that guy down
to George Town?
The island Nassau sits on is called New Providence. It is full! Especially around the Nassau area.
Nassau is a old port, with a bunch of forts built for defense. Fort Fincastle sits on a hill
guarding Nassau, where the 'arial' pics were taken from atop the water tower built on the fort's property.
Fort Charlotte is off to the west and guards the north entrance of the port, while Fort Montague
guards the east entrance. There is a huge 102' deep trench cut through the hill that Fort Fincastle sits on
with 65 steps down supposedly to celebrate the 65 year reign of Queen Victoria. The "Queen's Staircase"
was carved by slaves in the 1700's to allow troops to rush down to the city, (or rush to the safety of
the fort), without coming under fire from ships in the harbor.
The Bahamas were populated in the 1700's by plantation owners who were loyal to the
British Crown fleeing the newly independent U.S. of A. There is a lot of history here and there.
Some of the churches are historically interesting and beautiful. These pics were taken in the 2 Anglican churches, downtown.
You can see bits of history just walking around Nassau, though it is quickly being 'improved'.
They claim Columbus made 1st landfall in the Bahamas, though the attitude has changed
about the dude. I got a feeling the statue might be moved to a less prominent spot. Lots of gift shops around, however, just like Florida, not much is made here.
They do hand-weave; palm fronds into baskets and mats; and tourist hairdos. One boater claimed "The only thing they export,
is empty shipping containers". With the busy Seaboard and Tropical shipping lines taking up a huge chunk
of downtown waterfront, that comment is never far from thought.
Downtown is alive with cruise ship
passengers with either bright white or bright red skin, and the ever present braided-beaded coiffures, except on Sundays.
Everything closes on Sundays, the ships don't even come in. You can catch a bus just about anywhere,
for 75 cents. Don't expect the quarter change back from a dollar. It doesn't happen. Most all play music, from the very loud to soft, from the very rank to choral. The busses
have different routes, so you have to ask around to ID the route you need to catch. U.S. money
spends the same as Bahamian, just not as pretty! The people are friendly and courteous, and are
quick with a very pleasant smile and a greeting.
We stayed awhile in the Nassau Yacht Haven marina, then moved out to anchor 'on the hook' in the
harbor. Marinas will whittle your cruising budget quite rapidly. A nice, upscale restaurant, Crocodiles,
allows the boaters full use of their floating dinghy dock. We could come ashore there, drop off our
trash, explore the island and come back safely to a untouched dinghy! They hold a 'cruiser's luncheon'
on Thursdays at noon, which allows you to repay their graciousness and to meet the other boaters!
Most Thursdays are attended by Carolyn and her hubby Nick of BASRA, Bahamas Air & Sea Rescue Assn.
The food is good and the atmosphere is laid-back. All the tables are outdoors, under umbrellas,
so the weather plays a factor in the scheduling. BASRA is practically next door and also has a dock
and a public boat ramp, however, the dinghies are 'unattended' there, but serves as an option when
Crocodile's is full. And sometimes you just feel funny toting trash or laundry through the
middle of lunch or dinner patrons. Crocodile's is upscale, the evening crowd dresses up, and there
are 'doormen'. We never had a problem, they seem to recognize the cruisers right off, and they
are quick with a greeting. We just limited our 'hauling' to the early mornings, when they were
doing their cleaning.
This is a pan of the harbor with BASRA and Crocodile's on the left, (we
are the 3rd boat in the 2nd pic from the left). Potters Cay, (remember, that's 'key'), sits
bottom-middle. Downtown and Prince George's Wharf is at the top, with Paradise Island and Atlantis resort
on the right. In the 3rd pic there is a seaplane 'taxi-ing' in behind the yellow tug. Very busy harbor.
These pics were taken from atop the bridge connecting Paradise Island with the 'mainland',
looking west.
Potters Cay is a spit of asphalt and concrete sitting in the middle of Nassau Harbor. It is
connected to the mainland by a row of 'stalls' selling seafood and produce.
Potters Cay serves as a wharf
for the mailboats which traverse the islands delivering everything, from mail to trucks.
The vegetables were priced high and the seafood was of unknown 'history'. Photos? Yes, Shopping? No.
It used to be different, and may change soon. You can get good conch salad, made to order, right there in
front of you. There is always a domino game in progress on the corner, and if you are lucky you
will find a guy selling home made ice cream from a little trailer towed behind his truck. Yummy!
Some of these pics were taken on the way 'down island' and some were taken on the return trip. We enjoyed our stay in Nassau both times and would go back. It was easy to explore and had plenty to see. The anchorage was comfortable and handy, with exception of the 'Booze Cruise' party boats plying the channel at all hours with little heed to the 'No Wake' rule and insisting everybody listen to 'Hot-Hot-Hot' and 'Who-Who-Who(LetDeDogzOut)' with bone thumping bass. We also saw marching flamingos at Ardastra Gardens, watched a game of cricket, and toured the aquariums at Atlantis Resort. The photographer was off those days... We didn't get to see the Bacardi plant, Crystal Cay, Adelaide Village, or numerous museums in and around the Nassau area. Next time!
Until next time...
Gary
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