Utah, Arizona and Nevada, May 2001

                    I had not been able to put together a trip after Niagara Falls in May 2000, primarily because of the birth of my son Apu. So except for a few drives to New York and Philadelphia, we were basically grounded for a year. When my wife's parents made plans to come here, we resolved to go 'somewhere'. Living in the US has its advantages, but travel choices are not one of them, as most destinations are to me more hype than substance especially the 'historical' ones! Grand Canyon however, looked really a prime spot to go so we first decided on the conventional Las Vegas/South Rim tour. After doing a little more research, I came up with a route which covered Zion National Park, Bryce Canyon and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Without any more preamble, here is the account of the trip.



Day 1: BWI-Las Vegas-Zion-Bryce Canyon

                My plan was to arrive in Las Vegas in mid-morning and drive to Bryce Canyon the same day. The flight to Vegas is pretty long (5+ hours) but the fag end is enlivened by the views of the Grand Canyon and also Lake Mead and Hoover Dam, which perked me up considerably. By 12:00 we were ensconced in the relative comfort of a Dodge Intrepid (a brand new one with only 3 miles on it!!) and on our way to Bryce. I-15 is an unremarkable road but has a speed limit of 75 so we reached the exit for US-9 in a short time. US-9 winds its way through Zion National Park and is a memorable drive. A friendly ranger at the entrance recommended buying a National Park pass for $50 (valid for 1 year) which is worth its money on this trip alone as the 3 parks we visited would have cost us $60. We had our first taste of the magnificent cliff landscapes in Zion. What makes Zion so attractive is the cliff-canyon landscape in a lush green setting, which accentuates the imposing rock formations. Among the notable highlights of the drive are views of the Grand Arch and the Great White throne along with a mile long tunnel threading through the mountains.
                   Leaving Zion we took 89 North and then turned right on US-12 which is denoted as a Utah scenic highway. It certainly lived up to my expectation, weaving through a series of mountains, the most memorable stretch being through Red Canyon. The colours in this canyon are flaming red to the point of seeming unnaturally vivid. With red dust on the road before you and cliffs of the same colour hovering above you, it stamps its imprint on your mind with an image not to be easily forgotten. The drive from Vegas is not a long one (~240 miles) but takes time since a part of the road is through the mountains. However, the surrounding scenery captivated us to such an extent that nobody felt the effects of ennui common on such drives. We had rooms in Bryce Canyon Inn at Tropic in Utah (about 20 minutes from Bryce). It's a nice place, the only drawback being the distance from Bryce.



Day 2: Bryce Canyon and Kaibab National Forest


                  I think the Bryce Canyon amphitheatre is one of the few places in the world which does justice to that oft-repeated phrase - 'out of this world'. From every point you look at it, it offers beguiling views of one of the strangest landscapes on the face of the earth, an amphitheatre studded with rock formations called hoodoos. If you can imagine a rocky valley with carved needles reaching up towards the sky in multifarious hues of red and orange you will have some idea of the landscape that confronted us that morning. The hoodoos and cliff faces looked intricate enough to have been carved by human hands and bore an uncanny resemblance to temples in India (especially the ones at hoysala and some temples in Orissa). I think that I will soon run out of superlatives to describe Bryce Canyon, so I'll let the pictures do the describing for me.

                 After lunch at Bryce Canyon Lodge we set out for our drive to Jacob Lake which is situated in the heart of Kaibab Nationanl Forest about 40 miles from the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. This is again beautiful drive, the road going through mountains to emerge into an expanse ringed by cliffs and again weaving through the lush Kaibab forest. It's about 140 miles from Bryce to Jacob Lake, and the surroundings alternately delighted and amazed us as we wound our way to our destination. Jacob Lake Inn is about the only place to stay there, and enjoys near historic status, having been established in 1920's. They provide lodgings in rooms as well as family units (cottages). We had opted for the latter, and it turned out to be a good decision as the cottages are situated between towering pines, and provide a very soothing atmosphere.



Day 3: Lees Ferry and the Grand Canyon - the North Rim

                   We had the whole day to explore canyon country. Since we were not hiking, I reasoned that Grand Canyon would take only half a day. Where to spend the other half? This is one part of the US where such situations are easily solved. About 50 miles east was Lee's Ferry, with the Colorado River, and the road winds its way through canyons and cliffs with attractive names as Marble and Vermillion. I will recommend this drive to everybody who goes to the Jacob Lake. Vermillion Cliffs certainly live up to their name, and Marble Canyon and Lee's Ferry are just as attractive. At Lee's Ferry, we went to the banks of the Colorado river and watched intrepid souls embarking on river rafting expeditions. On the way back we stopped at the Navajo bridge (the only point of crossing the Colorado between the North and South Rims of the Canyon). We had one of our best meals at a small roadside restaurant at a place called Cliff Dweller's and fortified by the excellent lunch went on to the North Rim.

                      The North Rim is 44 miles from Jacob Lake with the road winding through pine forests. We made a beeline for the Grand Canyon Lodge, whose location must be one of the top contenders for best located hotels. As we walked past Roaring Canyon to Bright Angel point the views were too overwhelming for comment. The Colorado river remained unseen but the cascading walls which descend down to nether depths, each with its own hue and shade bore witness to its lifelong work. As we took our seats inside the viewing area of the Lodge, we suddenly saw rain bearing down upon us from the inner recesses of a canyon to the right. The body of rain and mist crept forward, filling the canyon and in a short time it was as if the spectacular views we were admiring a moment earlier were non-existent. Thankfully the rain yielded after about 40 minutes, and the curtain that was drawn in front slowly lifted to reveal the canyon in its breathtaking glory. After the Lodge, we drove down the road to all the points upto the end of the road, with each overlook offering us splendid and awe-inspiring vistas. The 'Grand' Canyon justified its epithet to the fullest, and nature's forces seem to have designed a sight fit for the gods.



Day 4 Hoover Dam and Las Vegas


 
                The History Channel is one of the few channels that I watch and anyone who has watched it for some time must have seen the documentary on the Hoover Dam as one of America's Modern Marvels!! I decided that I should have a look at it having come so close and drove to the dam in the morning from Jacob Lake. The last part of the road that I took lies on the perimeter of Lake Mead, whose blue waters provide much needed relief for the eye after the barren brown landscape around I-15. It was quite warm when we reached the Dam and there were a lot of tourists milling around. We skipped the tour, but took some nice photos and drove to Vegas.

                   We had the evening in Vegas, which was enough time to see the Strip. Our hotel (Circus Circus) was quite OK, though I found it a little to large for comfort, and as the sun went down, we went out. The Strip IS awash with lights of every hue and brilliance, and I could well believe it to be on of the brightest streets on the planet. A walk down from the MGM grand to Treasure Island hotel covers the brightest and best and the dancing fountains at the Bellagio look oh so attractive. Everybody was a little tired, so after some minimal gambling we turned in for the night.

 
                   An uneventful flight back to BWI capped a highly interesting and successful trip. Canyon country had exceeded my expectations and the images of Zion, Bryce and Grand Canyon will remain with me for a long time.