I had not been able to put together a trip after Niagara Falls in May 2000, primarily because of the birth of my son Apu. So except for a few drives to New York and Philadelphia, we were basically grounded for a year. When my wife's parents made plans to come here, we resolved to go 'somewhere'. Living in the US has its advantages, but travel choices are not one of them, as most destinations are to me more hype than substance especially the 'historical' ones! Grand Canyon however, looked really a prime spot to go so we first decided on the conventional Las Vegas/South Rim tour. After doing a little more research, I came up with a route which covered Zion National Park, Bryce Canyon and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Without any more preamble, here is the account of the trip.
My plan was to arrive in Las Vegas in mid-morning and drive to Bryce Canyon
the same day. The flight to Vegas is pretty long (5+ hours) but the fag
end is enlivened by the views of the Grand Canyon and also Lake Mead and
Hoover Dam, which perked me up considerably. By 12:00 we were ensconced
in the relative comfort of a Dodge Intrepid (a brand new one with only
3 miles on it!!) and on our way to Bryce. I-15 is an unremarkable road
but has a speed limit of 75 so we reached the exit for US-9 in a short
time. US-9 winds its way through Zion National Park and is a memorable
drive. A friendly ranger at the entrance recommended buying a National
Park pass for $50 (valid for 1 year) which is worth its money on this trip
alone as the 3 parks we visited would have cost us $60. We had our first
taste of the magnificent cliff landscapes in Zion. What makes Zion so attractive
is the cliff-canyon landscape in a lush green setting, which accentuates
the imposing rock formations. Among the notable highlights of the drive
are views of the Grand Arch and the Great White throne along with a mile
long tunnel threading through the mountains.
Leaving Zion we took 89 North and then turned right on US-12 which is denoted
as a Utah scenic highway. It certainly lived up to my expectation, weaving
through a series of mountains, the most memorable stretch being through
Red Canyon. The colours in this canyon are flaming red to the point of
seeming unnaturally vivid. With red dust on the road before you and cliffs
of the same colour hovering above you, it stamps its imprint on your mind
with an image not to be easily forgotten. The drive from Vegas is not a
long one (~240 miles) but takes time since a part of the road is through
the mountains. However, the surrounding scenery captivated us to such an
extent that nobody felt the effects of ennui common on such drives. We
had rooms in Bryce Canyon Inn at Tropic in Utah (about 20 minutes from
Bryce). It's a nice place, the only drawback being the distance from Bryce.
After lunch at Bryce Canyon Lodge we set out for our drive to Jacob Lake
which is situated in the heart of Kaibab Nationanl Forest about 40 miles
from the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. This is again beautiful drive,
the road going through mountains to emerge into an expanse ringed by cliffs
and again weaving through the lush Kaibab forest. It's about 140 miles
from Bryce to Jacob Lake, and the surroundings alternately delighted and
amazed us as we wound our way to our destination. Jacob Lake Inn is about
the only place to stay there, and enjoys near historic status, having been
established in 1920's. They provide lodgings in rooms as well as family
units (cottages). We had opted for the latter, and it turned out to be
a good decision as the cottages are situated between towering pines, and
provide a very soothing atmosphere.
We had the whole day to explore canyon country. Since we were not hiking,
I reasoned that Grand Canyon would take only half a day. Where to spend
the other half? This is one part of the US where such situations are easily
solved. About 50 miles east was Lee's Ferry, with the Colorado River, and
the road winds its way through canyons and cliffs with attractive names
as Marble and Vermillion. I will recommend this drive to everybody who
goes to the Jacob Lake. Vermillion Cliffs certainly live up to their name,
and Marble Canyon and Lee's Ferry are just as attractive. At Lee's Ferry,
we went to the banks of the Colorado river and watched intrepid souls embarking
on river rafting expeditions. On the way back we stopped at the Navajo
bridge (the only point of crossing the Colorado between the North and South
Rims of the Canyon). We had one of our best meals at a small roadside restaurant
at a place called Cliff Dweller's and fortified by the excellent lunch
went on to the North Rim.
The North Rim is 44 miles from Jacob Lake with the road winding through
pine forests. We made a beeline for the Grand Canyon Lodge, whose location
must be one of the top contenders for best located hotels. As we walked
past Roaring Canyon to Bright Angel point the views were too overwhelming
for comment. The Colorado river remained unseen but the cascading walls
which descend down to nether depths, each with its own hue and shade bore
witness to its lifelong work. As we took our seats inside the viewing area
of the Lodge, we suddenly saw rain bearing down upon us from the inner
recesses of a canyon to the right. The body of rain and mist crept forward,
filling the canyon and in a short time it was as if the spectacular views
we were admiring a moment earlier were non-existent. Thankfully the rain
yielded after about 40 minutes, and the curtain that was drawn in front
slowly lifted to reveal the canyon in its breathtaking glory. After the
Lodge, we drove down the road to all the points upto the end of the road,
with each overlook offering us splendid and awe-inspiring vistas. The 'Grand'
Canyon justified its epithet to the fullest, and nature's forces seem to
have designed a sight fit for the gods.