Cycle Tour of the French Pyrenees

Summer 2000

PLANNING

We used the Michelin maps of France, (1/200 000) Nos. 167 - 171. We had no guide book but made use of literature supplied by local tourist offices (the Syndicate Initiatives).

GETTING THERE AND AWAY

We started this tour by biking from Pamplona in Spain to St. Jean-Pied-de-Port in France. This is a fairly easy day trip of 77kms over three passes, Alto Erro (801m), Alto Mézquiriz (922m) and Alto Ibaneta (1057m). St. Jean-Pied-de-Port could also be reached in two or three days from Bordeaux.

THE RIDE

This is stunning country: very hilly and sometimes mountainous. It includes part of the classic Tour de France mountain route whose passes are signposted with the average grade for each kilometre! As you go from east to west the villages and farmhouses change their character and there is always something new to see. the ride is on the Pyrenean Cheese route so there is plenty of opportunity to get to know the local cheeses. It passes through numerous towns and villages well worth exploring so the ride could be spread out over two weeks.

THE ROADS AND THE TRAFFIC

We used departmental roads (numbered with a D) and avoided any national roads (N) as much as possible. The D roads are marked yellow on the maps. Because it was summer, the traffic was at times fairly heavy but the roads are also full of cyclists. French motorists accommadate cyclists. There was very little heavy truck traffic. Excellent roads.

ACCOMMODATION

We camped. There is an excellent network of campsites in France. Lists of Campsites are available for the whole of the area and the Michelin maps also indicate some of them. We look for the two star municipal campsites where possible as they are better value. No booking is necessary in our experience. The price I give is for two people. There are also many Chambre d'hotes which provide Bed and Breakfast accommodation in private homes in the countryside. Listings are also available at the tourist offices. In town it is possible to find reasonably priced hotels.

FOOD AND DRINK

We eat lunch everyday in the local restaurants which, during the week, provide a set menu of good food for between FF55-65 including drinks. We attempt to organise our biking so that we leave early and eat lunch about 15-20 km from our destination for the day. Every small town will have a café and shopping for food is easy at the many supermarkets. In the small towns look out for the Petit Casino for basics. The Charcuterie (often in a butcher's shop) is an excellent deli and the Boulangerie (Baker) always provides a great variety of bread. For a special treat ask at the tourist office for local Ferme Auberges. These are restaurants on farms which serve wonderful food made from their own produce.

THE ROUTE

Day I: St Jean-Pied-de-Port to Tardet (55 km) D933 to Larceveau, right onto D918 to Mauléon and then Tardet. A gentle start and a delightful ride through the beautiful rural landscape. Mauléon is the home of the espadrille or rope soled shoe. We crossed the first Pass, Col d'Osquich (500m) a good 8-9 km warm-up for more strenuous passes to come. We spent the night at a campsite outside Tardet, at Pont d'Abense. This is a lovely campsite in a wooded setting by a small river and below a tiny ancient hamlet. (FF 67.50.)

Day 2: Tardet to Bièle (53 km) D918 to Louvie-Juzon and the last 5.5 km on D934. The classic Tour de France route goes south after St.Christau to Escol and then west on D296 over Col Marie-Blanque (1035m). We decided we were not ready for grades of between 9 and 13%. Our route took us through attractive valleys and thick mixed woodland. Camping L'Ayguelade (FF54)

Day 3: Biele to Arrens (47 km) To Larun on D934 and back onto D918 over the Col d'Aubisque (1710m): the classic route, over one of Le Tour passes. The climb out of Eaux Bonnes is marked every kilometre with the average grade. When we reached the fourth kilometre and read that the average grade was 10% we gave up, deciding that this was not a pass for oldies on a fully laden tandem! We were still not fit enough! So we went back to Louvie-Juzon and to Camping Izeste (FF33)

Day 4: Louvie-Juzon to Bagnère de Bigorre (61 km) D35 to D937 then through Lourdes and onto D935 to Bagnère de Bigorre. A bad day for us, two punctures, a broken spoke and rain! It rained as we came into the town so we overnighted at Hotel Vinguaze (Dinner,B & B for FF340).

Day 5: Bagnère de Bigorre to Avajan (44km) South on D 935 to join D918 again at Sta. Marie-de-Campon. Then the climb over Col d'Aspin (1498m) to Arreau where we joined D618 to Avajan. We did the pass this time! What a good feeling. It was a great ride, the climb mostly in woodland through pretty villages. Camping Le Hourgade (FF40)

Day 6: Avajan to St. Beat (51 km) D618 over the Col de Peyresoude (1565 m) to B. de Luchon. Then 16 km north on D125 to a minor road (to avoid N125 which is full of truck traffic to and from Spain) through Marignac to St. Beat. Another classic pass under our belts though I have to admit we were overtaken by a jogger as we s-l-o-w-l-y climbed up! We were also passed by many racing cyclists who gave us a clap as we reached the top! A great ride. St. Beat is a delightful old town. Historically important as a frontier village between France and Spain, it has an old fortress guarding the Haute Garonne River and the road. Camping Municiapl (FF45)

The energetic would now continue west on D44 to St. Girons crossing Col Mente (1349m) and Col de Portet d'Aspet (1069m).

Day 7: St. Beat to Mane (51 km). North on N 125 5km to D618 and over two small cols Col des Ares and Col de Buret (797 and 599m respectively) Join D5 and go north to Aspet. D58 to Figarol and then D 21 to Mane. The appearance of the farmhouses changed today. Slate roofs have been replaced by red tiles. Beautiful wild valley after the second pass. Camping Municipal (FF45)

Day 8: Mane to Massat (53 km). Leave Mane on D117 and almost immediately turn up onto D134 through Teoule and along the River Salat to St. Gironne. Return to D618, along the River Arac to Massat. This is a busy road. Care is needed. A very pleasant municipal campsite high above the attractive town.

Day 9: Massat to Tarascon (36km) D 618 over the Col de Port. One of the nicest pass rides with wonderful views on both sides. Disaster on the way down with two punctures. The campsite at Tarascon was crowded noisy and expensive (FF77).

At this point we called it a day in the Pyrenees and headed back north west to the Bordeaux area. This took us 9 days as we passed through Albi and then to the Lot River and along it to Fumel at then to the Garonne at Tonnein.

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