PLANNING
We used a Michelin map of Ireland No. 923. We also had the CTC Byways network route sheets. These are produced by the Cycle touring Club of Great Britain. The routes shown are on minor roads wherever possible and include reference to interesting sites along the route. After the first day we made no further use of them but plotted our own route as we found the route tiresome to transfer to our map.
Our guidebook was the 1999 edition of the Ireland Handbook published by Footprint. My route describtion will not include details of the sights as this can be obtained from a good guide.
Plan on the fact that it rains often in Ireland. Beautiful countryside can disappear in rain and thick cloud. We were very fortunate for, although we often biked under grey clouds, we were not too badly affected and had some wonderful days.
GETTING THERE AND AWAY
We flew to Belfast International Airport with British Airways and departed by ferry from Rosslare to France.
No visas were required.
GETTING AROUND
We made use of public transport so cannot comment on the trains. These tend to converge from all area to Dublin and so would not have been much help to us.
THE ROADS AND THE TRAFFIC
We used minor roads wherever possible. However even major roads do not have too much traffic. They also have good shoulders. Drivers are, on the whole, respectful. The route around the Ring of Kerry is reputed to be a problem because of tour coaches. We travel early and did not find this a problem. Some roads are in a poor state of repair: particularly hard on the stoker!
ACCOMMODATION
Free camping is apparently very easy as the Irish are so friendly and welcoming. We did not camp because of the weather. Bed & Breakfast accommodation is available everywhere and we made some use of it. However there is an excellent network of Independent Hostels that have both dormitory and private accommodation and kitchens for self-catering. An up-to-date list of all the hostels in Ireland can be obtain from this web site: groups.msn.com/IrishHostellingOnline. (do not include www).
Bernard Davis, the author of "Ireland: all the Hostels" is a touring cyclist who regularly updates his information. This list includes prices and details of type of accommodation available. Independent hostels belong one of the five Irish Hostel Associations. We found the IHH hostels the best value. When we got further south we began to phone one day ahead to book a hostel room. The private rooms tend fill up first.
FOOD AND DRINK
Our only complaint was the difficulty in getting anything to eat and drink before about midday. The famous Irish Pub never seems to open before then. They are open however till the wee small hours when food drink and live music, after about 10 p.m., are all available. A pub meal is good value and available at any time the pub is open. In the larger towns of course, coffee shops served food and drink in the morning.
ROUTE DESCRIBTION
Day 1: Belfast International Airport to Randalstown (9 miles)
The route out of the airport was easy. We followed signs to Antrim and then on to our B&B in Randalstown. This had been prebooked online at Discover Northern Ireland
Day 2: Randalstown to Plumbridge (44 miles)
A6 to Maghera was a fairly busy road. After 2 ½ miles we turned off onto B41, which took us to a highpoint and a cross over into the lovely Glenelly valley. Any hope we had of an easy ride down the valley was soon dashed. The valley is steep sided and the road winds up and down the hillside above it. It was hard work. At Plumbridge we easily found a B&B. There were few tourists around because of the outbreak of Foot and Mouth disease in Northern Ireland.
Day 3: Plumbridge to Castlederg (17 miles) B47 and 46 to the main Strabane road A 6. At Victoria Bridge a complicated road took us onto quiet rural B72. We were back among the sheep farms! This short ride took us to friends in Castlederg.
Day 4: Castlederg to Donegal (about 25 miles) We set off on a minor road first southwest and then northwest to N15. The Irish Guarda controlled our border crossing just after Killeter Forest. We had to cycle through disinfectant to prevent the transfer of the Foot and Mouth disease into the republic. We then joined the very busy N15 which took us down through the gloomy but stunning Barnesmoore Gap to Donegal.
Donegal and a visit to its castle is well worth a stopover. The castle tour guides began our course in Irish History as they ably recounted the fortunes of the castle.
Day 5: Donegal to Sligo (55 miles) We left town on N15 but turned off onto minor roads through the villages as soon as we could. At Ballyshannon we joined the main road again into Bundoren and on to Sligo where we were the only visitors at the IHH hostel, Harbour House.
Day 6: Sligo to Ballina (36 miles) We had planned to take the inland route across the Ox Mountains but bad weather discouraged us and we chose instead to go along N 59. It would also be possible and perhaps easier to take the northerly minor roads nearer the coast.
Day 7: Ballina to Westport (41 miles) Another day of threatening rain although once again we escaped the worst of the weather. We took the N59 to Crossmolina where we turned south on R 315 to Castlebar. We avoided Windy Gap Pass by crossing over to R 312. We needed lunch and went into Castlebar to get a meal then taking the N 5 into Westport.
Day 8: Westport to Clifden (55 miles) This was a beautiful ride on a perfect day. The sun shone, the sky was blue: Ireland showed us her best. For much of the day we biked with Cloagh Patrick on our left and eventually in the distance behind us. This 2,500 ft high cone shaped mountain had been a place of pilgrimage centre long before St. Patrick came on the scene in 441 A.D. and banished all snakes! The road R 335 took us along lovely Clew Bay. At Louisburgh it turned south and climbed in beautiful scenery up to Don Lough Pass to join the N55 just before Leename. We were now on the edge of Connemara, its beauty already apparent on this beautiful day.
Day 9: Clifden to Galway (49 miles) The weather broke again. We spent a day in Clifden enjoying the hospitality of Brookside Hostel. The owner had many suggestions for lovely side trips in all directions and many ideas for our route through Connemara. But the weather did not improve. This is Ireland after all. We took the direct route Oughterard. In spite of low clouds and heavy winds the scenery was beautiful.
Day 10: Galway to Doolin (45 miles) The weather improved again and we enjoyed another day of sunshine. N 15 took us to Kinvarra and lots of other touring cyclists. It was grand to meet a party of three tandems all the way from Pennsylvania, USA! Shannon Airport is not far and so American cyclists head in this direction. N 62 took us along to Ballyvaughan where we turned south to cross The Burrens, wild high unearthly place of flat limestone rock, a mecca for geologists and botanists. Doolin is a tiny village, a place of pilgrimage for lovers of Irish music.
Day 11: Doolin to Kilrush (31 miles). Another beautiful day for a scenic coast ride. We climbed up to N67 and the Cliffs of Mohar. Then on through the small resort towns of Loahinch and Miltown Malbay. About two miles after Quilty we turned off the main road and went inland on R483 to Kilrush a charming town with brilliantly painted houses of all colours.
Day 12: Kilrush to Tralee (35 miles) on N69.
Day 13: Tralee to Dingle (30 miles). This was the day we tackled the Connor Pass on the Dingle Peninsula. The weather was very doubtful, showers of rain and sun came and went. The mountains, which the pass crossed, were often covered with cloud. Having heard how stunning the scenery was we climbed it anyway. Alas, near the top everything disappeared and we had a heavy downpour!
Dingle is full of tourists but it is a charming town. If you like stained glass don't miss the Harry Clarke windows in the Diseart chapel part of a convent now used as the Institute of Education and Celtic Culture. We regretted not cycling to the end of the peninsula.
Day 14: Dingle to Caheciveen (60 miles). A hard but very worthwhile ride along half of the Ring of Derry. We biked more than we had planned because it was a beautiful day and when the sun shines you have to enjoy every minute of the wonderful scenery! A map of the Ring of Derry cycle route is available in Tourist offices. It is easily followed, as it is very well signposted. Wherever possible it takes you off the main road. In good weather it would be worth extending ones time cycling this lovely area.
Day 15: Caheciveen to Kenmare (48 miles). Great ride.
Day 16: Kenmare to Allihies (44 miles). The sun was shining as we left and this, as usual, determined our route. We zigzagged along the Beara Peninsula and took in the Healy Pass with its lovely views. We took R571 to Lauragh, R574 over the pass, R572 to Castletownbere, R 571 back to the north side of the peninsular and finally along R575 to Allihies. This last road took us up and down steep hills with such awful grades we walked more than once! See the Beara Peninsula website, for details of its cycle route.
Day 17: Allihies-Bantry (42 miles): R572 on the south of the peninsular. A great day again with a few long climbs. The road was very rough for the stoker.
Day 18: Bantry-Clonakilty (39 miles) on N71. Not a good day with mechanical problems.
Day 19: Clonakilty to Midleton (49 miles). Here along the south coast the country is more open, the fields and farms bigger and the towns busier. We left the main road and used R 600 until it met R 613. We turned right and headed for Monkstown and the ferry to Cobh Island (Ferry cost 60 pence each) joining N 25 for 5 miles to Midleton.
Day 20: Midleton to Ring (40 miles). We continued along N25, which swept up and down long hills. Two miles before Dungarven we took R674, a narrow winding road to Ringville. This is a very Gaelic area with all Gaelic signposts. Fortunately the Michelin Map gives Gaelic names!
Day 21: Ring to Dunmore East (43 miles). R675 is a quiet winding coastal road with lovely views of the ocean. Shortly after Tramore, a resort town, we turned onto R 685 to reach Dunmore East, an active fishing village.
Day 22: Dunmore East to Rosslare (42 miles). Our last day of biking to catch the ferry to France. A great ride until we turned south to get to Rosslare and found ourselves facing a terrific head wind. Ireland definitely wanted to detain us! We took a minor road 6 miles north to Passage East and the ferry crossing of Waterford Harbour. From there the R733 till it joined the N25 and on south to Rosslare.
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