The Road:
The roads are first class, sealed and wide until you reach the Mekong River. There the road still sealed but narrower but this is not a problem as there is much less traffic. Where possible we avoided the major roads and used alternative routes but traffic was still pretty heavy.
Accommodation:
We found hotel and guest house accommodation at each of our stops unless noted otherwise below.
The Ride in Detail:
Bangkok to Ayuthaya
We chose not to bike out of Bangkok and took one of the early morning trains to Ayuthaya. The main express tourist trains to this world heritage site do not take bicycles but the slower commuter trains allow you to load your bike into a carriage that has space for them.
DAY 1: Ayuthaya to Singburi (78 km on Route 309)
Although the road was a secondary road it was quite busy with plenty of motorcycle traffic. There was much to see in the rice paddies and villages. We biked past many attractive Wats or monasteries all brightly decorated. Every few kilometres along all the roads we found covered bus shelters that provided very welcome cool rest stops.
DAY 2: Singburi to Nakhon Sawan (98 km)
We started by crossing back to Route 311, a continuation of 309. At San Phaya we turned left to reach the main road (Route 32) this involved biking through the middle of a village market, a ferry crossing and a short ride on unsealed road till we found our way onto the main dual carriageway (Route 1), a very busy road with a wide shoulder.
DAY 3: Nakhon Sawan to Kamphaeng Phet (128km on Route 1)
A long ride but the weather was cooler and less humid. The road was busy but the stoker kept herself occupied admiring all the flowering trees.
DAY 4: Kam Phet to Sokhuthai Historical Park (90 km on Route 101)
This is another one of Thailand's ancient capitals with well maintained ruins in a peaceful setting. We chose to stay at the historic park and avoided the city. We were here by lunchtime so had time to visit the park and the museum.
DAY 5: Sokhuthai to Phitsanulok (74 km on Route 12)
We were still biking in the central rice growing plain as we followed the road east. It was our last day of level roads and easy biking.
DAY 6: Phitsanulok to Lomsak (130 km on Route 12)
We set off early hoping to spend the night at Thung Salaeng Laang Wildlife Sanctuary where our guidebook indicated that camping was possible. It soon became very hot and very hilly so when we arrived at the National Park we were tired and distressed to discover that the campsite was a long ride below along a river and that it would cost the two of us 400 Baht to camp. Even worse no food was available.
We biked on hoping to find a resort hotel further along the road. The scenery became stunning and the hills longer and harder. We gave up and flagged down a pick up truck and got a lift into Lomsak and a hotel.
DAY 7: Lomsak to Loei (130 km on Route 203 by bus)
Younger and more energetic cyclists could do this with no problem. It was however a long haul through some lovely country with the road climbing higher and higher before dropping down again to Loei. Near the high point somewhere we passed a guesthouse so it would be possible to break up the journey if necessary.
DAY 8: Loei to Chiang Khan (51 km on Route 201)
This short ride took us to the very pleasant small town on the Mekong River. We were among tourists again and found a charming guesthouse and restaurants that made such delights as banana pancakes. It was a great place to relax.
DAY 9: Chiang Khan to Sangkhom (103 km on Route 211)
A delightful ride along the Mekong between orchards pf papaya, mango, coconut palms and bananas. Tamarind trees were being harvested and the village life along the road was full of activity. We were greeted enthusiastically in each village. At Sangkhom we stayed at Bouy Guesthouse in a tiny bamboo walled house right on the river. We highly recommend it and the attached restaurant. Our hosts both spoke English and were ready to answer all our questions about the things we had been observing.
DAY 10: Sangkhom to Nong Khai (102 km on Route 211)
We followed Route 211 all the way to its junction with the major Highway Route 2. Just after Tha Bo we missed a turn off onto o minor road which would have followed the river. This would have been a more pleasant and much shorter route.