Climbing at Portland


The climbs at Portland Bill vary in grade; however there is really only one location for new / intermediate climbers (i.e. climbing up to french grade 5) who want to fit at least 5 routes into a day. Portland was the first place I climbed at outdoors (I haven't re-visited), hence this is the site i chose. The rock is a mixture of sandstone and black graphite (good for gripping small features, but shreads your fingers in no time. In addition the routes were actually quite difficult to get to. After walking to the top of the cliff, it was necessary to practically slide down a narrow and steep trail, before clambering over the large rocks and stones on the beach below (this part took nearly half an hour before we reached the first climb, by which time my legs already felt that they'd exercised enough!). I climbed routes varying from 3 up to 5 (I lead the grade 3 climbs and used them as a warm up and introduction to rock climbing). I found rock climbing extremely different to wall climbing in that the height handicap was not so relevant, and the technique I had built up to compensate my lack of height meant that I had an advantage over climbers who had previously relied soley on height and strength. In a bid to climb back up the cliff in less time than it had taken to descent (no toilet opportunities for women as this site is by no means empty of people!) we ended up climbing the cliff aided by an old drain pipe which didn't feel too secure but halved our time!