Split Ring Heading
Please do not duplicate without permission from Suzann Welker
Ok, I have gotten several requests for my pattern for the split ring header
and the single shuttle edging. First lets get the question of copyrights out
of the way. The header is just a row of split rings, no copyright there. The
edging pattern is one of the oldest tatting patterns on record. Who ever
originally designed it has long gone to the big shuttle in the sky.
The header must be the same number of stitches as the ring it will be
attached to. So if your single shuttle pattern is different feel free to
change the header.
R = ring
- - = picot
cl = close ring
rev = reverse
ds = double stitch
+ = join
/= the split side of the ring. as in 6 ds/6ds. the first 6ds is done
normally those after the /are the unturned stitches or split side of the ring.
Supplies: 2 shuttles wound on continous thread.
All rings in header 3ds p, 3ds/ 3ds p, 3ds cl
Repeat this until the header is as long as you want. The two picots in all
the rings should be the same size. Remember you can enlarge the picots
somewhat but you can't shrink down a to large picot. After I finished my row
of rings I took the point of a Boye plastic shuttle and ran it through each
picot to even them out.
One thing I should mention is if you are going to add the following edging
on the header then you must do the heading in multiples of three.
I choice to make two rows of split rings, but you can do one row and attach
the edging to each side. The second row of split rings will read
All rings in second row of header 3ds +, 3ds/ 3ds p, 3ds cl
Try to make the picots the same size as the first row.
Work the second row so you are joining the first ring of the second row to
the last ring on the first row. This will help the rows of rings to lay flat.
Edging, which I am sure you all know.
Ring 1: 3ds p, 3ds + (to first free picot on header) 3 ds p, 3ds cl rev
leave 1/8 of an inch of thread between rings.
Ring 2: 4 ds p, 3ds cl rev *
Ring 3: 3 ds +(to ring 1) 3ds +to next picot on header) 3ds p, 3ds cl rev
Ring 4: 4ds + (to ring 2) 2ds p, x 6, 4ds cl rev
Ring 5: 3ds +(to ring 3) 3ds + to next picot on header) 3ds p, 3ds cl rev
Ring 6: 3ds + to ring 4, 4ds cl rev
Ring 7: 3ds + to ring 5, 3ds + to next picot on header) 3ds p, 3ds cl rev **
Repeat from * to ** for desired length.
After you finish one side of the header do the same edging on the other side
for a bookmark. Or only do edging on one side for edging with header.
An easy 1/8 of an inch guide is to place your thumbnail against the ring you
have just finished. As you start to form the next ring bring the first ds up
against you thumbnail. That is about 1/8 of an inch.
Finishing:
If your thread lengths between rings seems uneven (join the crowd) pull the
rings away from eachother. There is a little play in these patterns. If the
joining picots seem tight and the edging wants to cup forward, gently pull
the joins away from each other. What you want is an open airy effect, so
don't worry if you joins aren't tight up against eachother as they usuallyare in tatting. Of course you don't want you joins flopping around either. What you want is for the edging to lay flat. This is so simple I hope that you aren't disappointed. It does look lovely though.
Oh I nearly forgot if you HATE split rings, you can still do this. You have
to carry the thread around the back of the ring.But the allover effect is
still the same. Your header pattern would read
3ds p, 3ds very small picot, 3ds p, 3ds cl. Bring thread around back of ring
and pull a loop through the small picot. Pass the shuttle through the loop
and tighten. Repeat for length.
I am not crazy about making split rings. But for a fair entry I figured I
had better not have thread on the back of my rings. I see all fair judges as
Penny Boston clones, eyeballing my work.
If making split rings and doing single shuttle patterns isn't enough pain
for you I can add Lock Picots between the rings on the edging. True suffering
-Suzann
Feel free to use enjoy share and cover your world with tatting.
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