Tatting With Metallic Thread Part Two


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Winding the shuttle

I find that a shuttle without a hook is easier to use as the hook seems to snag the metallic thread; this is a personal preference of course. Beggar's Lace now carries a shuttle with a double bobbin which is ideal for tatting with double threads. Sebalace has an inexpensive plastic shuttle that has double posts, that also work well with double threads. Whatever your shuttle choice, the points should not be so tight as to cause wearing of the metallic thread.

Knot the tatting thread and the metallic thread together, then knot the joined threads to your shuttle. To maintain the correct tension try putting both threads in a plastic bag and lay them on the floor. Walk your shuttle over the threads to wind the shuttle, rather then winding the thread around the shuttle. Check as you are winding the shuttle to see that both threads are together. If your tatting thread is on one side of the post and your metallic on the other, you may find as you unwind the shuttle that you have more of one thread then the other. Drop the shuttle often to take as much twist out of it as you can.After winding the shuttle put it aside for at least overnight. This is very important, as the two threads need time to relax together. The metallic threads are much more tightly wound on their spools then the tatting thread. You can see this as the metallic thread unwinds; it forms tight little curls. In fact, all metallic threads are hyperactive and need the calming presence of some other thread to work correctly.

To facilitate my work, I usually wind a large shuttle, like a Tatsy with my threads and put it aside for a few days. I then wind my working shuttle off of this. The benefit of this is that I have a large amount of thread ready to use. Since I am using a second shuttle for my ball thread there is less chance of the threads tangling together. If my working shuttle starts to run low I can switch shuttles. This helps in keeping knots to a minimum. The second shuttle also means that the chain thread will also be easier to work with. While the chain thread is not as critical as the shuttle thread, it is still more pleasant to work with the relaxed thread. If you prefer not to work with two shuttles, you might like to try this method of keeping the threads together. Thread the two thread though a bead. Slide the bead down the threads, then wind your shuttle. Leave the bead on the ball thread. As you work the bead will keep the ball threads together.

You will find that the blending filament will relax quicker then the machine metallic sewing threads. The machine type metallic threads need a few days to become pliable. This wait is worthwhile, as it makes the threads easier to work with.
In working with the double threads you need to maintain an even tension. If you normally tat very tightly you will need to make an effort to relax your tension. Undo any mistakes carefully, making sure you loosen both threads. Count your stitches as you go. It is sometimes difficult to see the individual stitches. You may need to exaggerate your hand movements to get the stitch to form. Try to form your stitch higher up on the thread. Another problem you may encounter is passing the thread though the two threads instead of around both threads. This usually happens when your hands are tired and your tension has lessened, or, your shuttle may need to be unwound. You may find it easier to work patterns that do not have very large rings. It can be difficult to pull a very large ring closed if you have tatted it tightly with metallic thread. Close rings as usual,pulling the threads evenly and firmly. To prevent breakage of the fragile metallic thread do not yank on the threads. After closing the ring, jiggle it up and down on each side and pull the shuttle thread again. This last step assures that the ring is completely closed. It also gives the stitches a chance to be more firmly seated next to each other. Try making your joining picots a little larger then usual. In fact, larger picots in the whole design give the metallic threads a chance to catch the light. Even if you are an experienced tatter you should do your first double thread work with a simple pattern that you have worked before. Patterns used for metallic thread work should be simple. What will be envisioned in the finished work will be the interplay of light on the metallic thread. Save complex patterns for working in plain thread; otherwise all your hard work will be quite lost in the glitter of the metallic thread. Split rings can be worked in metallic thread. Care should be taken in working the second half of the split ring that you go over the threads and not through them. Node or zig - zag tatting can also be use effectively with metallic threads.

Using More Then One Metallic Thread

For most tatters, adding a strand of silver thread to their snowflakes is enough. We will now examine tatting with more than one metallic thread. It is even more important to wind the shuttle and let the threads relax when using multiple metallic threads.For your first try I would suggest employing a strand of size 80 tatting cotton and two strands of blending filament. Try gold and silver. In the finished motif you will hardly see the tatting thread at all. After you are comfortable with this you may wish to try matching your metallic thread with the sewing thread. Coats and Clark has a large selection of metallic sewing threads. Unlike the blending filaments this thread has little flecks of intense color. Matching two of these metallic threads with a strand of sewing thread you have produced a new thread that has a deep, inner glow. It can be quite effect in making jewelry, holiday motifs, or in my case, dragons. The work will be quite stiff and rather scratchy. Rather than a collar think of a circle of motifs sewn down on the the neck edge of a sweater. Two strands of metallic sewing thread and strand of sewing thread work up to about a size 20 tatting thread. To see what color a particular set of threads will produce, wrap the thread around your finger a few times. This will give you an approximate idea of the shade when the threads are worked up. Tat samples in a simple motif using various thread combinations for future reference.



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