| 1) This is where you will start for this conversion. I have all the parts laid out for you, and nothing else will be used other than putty and wire. As you can see there is little extra needed and the plastic skeletons are a cheap way to convert a model. |
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2) These are the tools of the trade. Even my personal sculpting tools are in this picture. I use them most frequently and rarely even need anything else other than my fingers. The saw you see is a jewelers saw and you can acquire one for about $15-30 depending on the quality. The device with the drill bit is a pin vice. This is essential for pinning pieces as it allows you to drill carefully and no slipping destroying detail. The green and yellow stuff is, you guessed it, green stuff. Mixing the two parts creates the chain reaction in the putty allowing you to sculpt beautiful works of art. One more piece of equipment I use not shown in the picture is a cup filled with water. This cup is vital for keeping green stuff from sticking to my tools.
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| 3) This is the first stage of the conversion. First I take the jewelers saw and cut the front half of the terminators body off. You need to do this to allow room for the skeleton torso to fit in place, otherwise it would jut out well beyond where we need it placed. Be very careful not to cut yourself with the jewelers saw, I recommend using a vice and holding the terminator in place with it using the stub on the bottom of the feet. Also when sawing use bar soap on your blade, it helps keep it lubricated and you will break fewer blades. Always wear safety glasses because if a blade breaks it can spring up in your face and could damage your eyes. |
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| 4) At this stage I glue the skeleton torso on the terminator body, very straight forward. I wait to glue the head on until the body drys in place laying down. I use quite a bit of super glue to help hold it in place while sculpting and it helps to have gravity aid me by positioning the model this way. Once it drys I turn it up, place it on the base, and then glue the head in a favorable position. |
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| 5) Now we are ready to pin. I use the pin vise to drill two holes for each pin that will insert into the arms. I may drill at an angle to get more metal if there is a thin area on the piece. These parts are relatively heavy and need strong pins. Glue the pins in place. |
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| 6) Here you can see the head added and the pinned arms. Now drill the holes for the arm pins to attach to the terminator torso. Remember to check the angle of your arm so that you can position it the way you like. You may need to drill these holes at angles as well. Glue the arms in place and let it sit for at least 1 hour to make sure the arms are set in place. |
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| 7) Here you can see the arms glued in place. Notice there are two large gaps between the arms and torso. This will be filled with putty and details will be modeled in the gaps. This can become a very difficult job and may require experience to sculpt into these tight areas well. I recommend practicing some before attempting to achieve your desired effect. Also notice the arms are angled slightly to give a more dynamic pose to the model. |
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| 8) Here you can see the basic beginning of the models putty work. I achieved this in one pass. I was careful to hold the model without causing details with my fingers and recommend using small amounts of putty at a time until you can work quickly. I press the basic shape in place and apply putty where ever needed. Then I proceed to work in the details, smoothing the putty with the tip of my tools and finally cutting in details like the cracks in the armour or serrated joints under the arms. |
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| 9) This is the final stage where I add details to the model and build depth. This allows me to layer on things such as clothing or more tendrils, perhaps even add guitar wire for more disgusting effects. The next series of photos will show the finished piece. |
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