Nurgle Defiler
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1) Here are the parts you need to make a defiler. I did not put the dreadnought parts in this photo because they were a last minute decision. I felt the front of the model would be too thin without them. I used one basilisk sprue, six ork dreadnought legs, two dreadnought arms, and parts of an old chaos rhino.
2) The first step in the conversion was to cut the parts free from the sprues, clean the mold lines and start to glue the parts together. I wanted the large battle cannon to appear held in place mechanically so I decided to use the braces from the basilisk to do the job. I also used the rail pieces from the basilisk sprue to make support structures between the supports. I used the polystyrene cement to make sure the plastic melted together making a strong bond. The gun worked great upside down and I fitted it on the extra rhino view plate that was left over from the rhino sprues.
3) The next stage was to add the legs. They would need to be very strong to support the weight of this vehicle so I used plastic card to fill the void on the rhino. The polystyrene glue was used to make sure the plastic was well bonded. I drilled 6 holes slightly larger than the pin for the legs. "Why you ask?", Simple, I would use green stuff rather than glue to hold them in place. For extra heavy metal to plastic joints green stuff works much better than glue, creating a very strong bond.
4) At this stage I began to blend the attachment of the legs and create a fusion of the mechanical legs and the skin like sides of the model. I wanted a textured surface but something that would have some reason, not just for filling up the space. I used white putty for this stage. I have found the white putty to spread a little easier because it is slightly softer. I spread a very thin coat over the surface and began to sculpt in the cracked skin detail. Most of this would be covered later so I did not worry about the sides the legs were not attached to. I also added some guitar wire to once again help unite machine and flesh.
5) At this stage the sides were coming along and I would need to begin adding details as well as the arms. I knew they needed to attach under the conversion so I once again used the technique of using green stuff to attach the metal parts to plastic. Any green stuff that was left over would be used to create a few details.
6) Now things were beginning to come together. I added a few tendrils at the edges where the skin effect met the flat lifeless surface of the rhino. This helped ease the transition and began the finishing touches.
7) The conversion was near complete. All I needed to address were the feet, he could not march around on stubs. The model reminded me of a scorpion or crab with the pincers so I decided on pointed claw like feet. This also helped tie the mechanical aspect back into the fusion of flesh and metal. I would need to let gravity help me on this one. As I finished sculpting the feet in the shape I wanted I needed them to point forward to look more menacing, therefore I just turned him up and let gravity do all the work for me.
8) Here is the model finished, click on the image to view the gallery.