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MAKE YOUR OWN GASKETS
Here is a method I use to make perfect fitting gaskets made out
of hi-temp gasket material. Unfortunately it does not work real
good for cork. It can work with thinner cork, but you must be
careful not to rip it. If you need an irregular shaped cork gasket,
you could use this method to make a master copy out of hi-temp
gasket material and then use it to trace on the cork and cut
it out with a hobby knife or scissors.
Tools required: Small ball peen hammer.
Here is an example of how I made a gasket
for the tranny on my Trail Boss. It has an irregular shape, and
while it would be possible to trace around the outside and cut
it, there is no way to trace the inside. So here is what I do.
Cut a piece of gasket material at least 1" larger than the
overall size of the case. Align it over the case so that it hangs
over the edge on all sides. Holding the material securely in
place, take your ball peen hammer and begin tapping lightly on
the outside edge of the case. As you tap it, the edge will cut
the gasket. Work your way around the entire outside edge. Just
make sure you don't let the gasket move around. (CAUTION: Do
not hammer too hard. You don't want to break your casting!) Now
using the ball end of the hammer, tap lightly on the bolt holes
to cut them out (this is why I said a small ball peen
hammer). Now we have to remove the inside of the gasket.
This is trickier because the gasket is harder to hold in place.
The cure for this is to put a bolt thru each of the bolt holes
you just cut. This will hold it securely in place. Take your
hammer and tap your way around the inside. When finished, you
will have a gasket that exactly matches the shape of your case!
If more than one is required, you can now use this one as a master
copy and simply trace and cut out more gaskets. I like to make
one master and put it away for future use. Then I can make one
up spares at anytime, without needing a dis-assembled case to
work off of. (contributed
by: Chris
Heili) |
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HOW DO I ADJUST
MY TRANSMISSIONS?
This is probably the most
commonly asked question from Trail Boss owners, so here's a reprint
of an e-mail reply I sent one day. It's a little long winded,
but includes some tranny band theory as well as adjustment.
The best way to learn what's happening
when you adjust your trannys is to dis-assemble one and see how
it works. Adjusting these is kind of an art form but once you
figure it out, it's no problem. Here's a quick and dirty explanation
of how the adjusters and bands work. (NOTE: this is for NEW
STYLE trannys only. Pointer points up. OLD STYLE trannys have
the pointer pointing down. I never worked on an old style tranny
so I don't know if the theory is the same.) Ok here goes
nothing. Picture a band that goes about 350 degrees around a
drum. There is an ear sticking up on end of the band. When you
pinch the ears together it tightens the band on the drum and
stops it from turning (just like the brakes on a car).
On the trail boss there are two drums. On for forward, one for
reverse. Stopping one or the other of the drums allows the planetary
gears to drive the main shaft forward or reverse. When your bands
are properly adjusted, the pointer should point straight up (or
zero degrees). You should have about 5 degrees of travel
forward, and 5 degrees of travel in reverse. Meeting these 3
requirements at once is where it gets tricky because as you adjust
one side, the pointer goes off of zero again. The whole trick
is to keep both sides balanced equally to keep the pointer at
zero. (see my method below) The shaft that the pointer
is attached to is a hex shaft (6 sided) inside the tranny. There
are two pieces that slide onto the hex. One for forward band,
one for reverse band. These pieces connect to one ear of the
band. The adjusting screw is a stop for the other ear of the
band.
Now here's where I put it altogether so
it makes a little sense.
Make a fist with your hand. Now extent your thumb and index finger
like pincers on a crab. Point your index finger straight up and
make a pinching motion by moving your index finger toward your
thumb while keeping your thumb still. Your index finger represents
the pointer/hexshaft assembly. Your thumb represents the adjusting
screw. This is the basic theory you must picture in your head
while adjusting. When you move your index finger toward your
thumb you are tightening the band. Once you moved it 5 degrees
from zero (up), the band would be tight enough to stop the drum
(if the the thumb was properly adjusted.
The other thing to remember is that both bands are operating
off the same hex shaft, but all the parts are mounted in the
opposite direction. When you rotate the hex shaft one way it
tightens one band, and when you rotate the other way it tightens
the other one. Hence forward or reverse but not both.
Heres my adjusting procedure:
Remove the control rod from the pointer.
Loosen the jam nut on both adjusting screws.
Back out one adjusting screw until you can move it about 10 degrees
from zero (straight up).
Repeat for the other adjusting screw.
You should be able to move the pointer back and forth with your
hand about 10 deg in each direction.
Hold the pointer all the way to one side, and screw in the adjuster
on the opposite side until the pointer moves to zero (up).
As you screw in you will feel the pointer being moved.
Now when you move the pointer by hand it should only move from
zero to 10 deg in one direction but not the other.
Repeat the screw in procedure for the other adjuster.
Now your pointer should be at zero, and you should not be able
to move it in either direction by hand.
This is good, this is what you want. (This is an over-tightened
condition)
You may have to tweak the two adjusters a little either way to
achieve this, but don't move on to the next step until you do.
When pointer is at zero and is tight (won't move either way),
you begin can begin final adjustment.
Back out one screw 2 full turns.
Back out the other screw 2 full turns.
Grab the pointer and move it as far as you can in each direction.
It should move the same amount each way. If not, tweak one screw
or the other until it does.
Once it moves the same amount each way, and seems to want to
rest at zero (up) you achieved balance!
This is great! This is what you need!
Once it's balanced, you're home free.
Back out each screw an equal amount (1 turn at time) until you
can feel in the pointer that the band is no longer being stopped
by the adjusting screw (it goes loose).
VERY IMPORTANT. MAINTAIN BALANCE AT ALL TIME.
Now turn in each adjusting screw (1/2 turn at a time) until your
pointer moves 5 degrees from zero in each direction.
Remember. You should still be balanced.
Tighten the locknuts and reattach the control rod.
Test drive.
This should work, but not always. Sometimes you may have slippage
in one direction or the other due to wear and tear, and more
adjusment may be needed.
If you do have slippage, adjust both screws 1/4 turn and retest.
Repeat as needed but don't overtighten.
The more you overtighten, the harder it will be to move you control
sticks, and the less travel they will have.
I adjusted mine as loose as possible to get maximum stick travel
with the least amount of tension.
Go out and try it and you'll see what I mean.
The above is a basic procedure, not gospel.
Experiment until you find what works best for you!
Good luck and happy bouncing!
(contributed by: Chris Heili) |