How to Replace the Leather on Your SVO Seats

NOTE: This procedure applies to the driver's seat and/or the passenger seat. I have not done the back seat yet.

Tools:
I was able to get hog ring pliers and hog rings from the Eastwood Company in Malvern, PA. All other tools, with the exception of the Swingline staple gun, are Craftsman (Sears).

Procedures:

1. Slide the seat all the way back to gain access to the two 15mm nuts holding the front of the seat tracks to the floor pan. Unbolt these then release the seat so that it slides all the way forward--this way the springs that control the seat tracks will not be under tension when it comes time to unbolt them from the bottom of the seat.
2. Unbolt the rear 15mm nuts and remove the seat from the car.
3. Remove the plastic cover over the reclining lever; there are two (2) Phillips screws holding this cover on.
4. On the left side (seat back reclining lever side), there are two (2) 13mm bolts holding this side in place; remove them.
5. On the opposite side, there is a torx bolt. Use a T-45 bit to remove this bolt.
6. The seat back release lever has a knob that you need to slide off and then take the Phillips screw out of the cover. Also disconnect the lumbar bladder connection.
7. I did the seat back first as it appeared easier. Unzip the cover at the bottom and start peeling it up toward the headrest. Note the steel rods at the bottom and the placement of the hog rings; you might want to draw a diagram of the hog ring placement so it will be easier to put back together.
8. Cut the existing hog rings off with wire cutters.
9. As you disassemble the seat back, pay attention to the placement of the stays. This is a simple, straightforward job and taking it slow and easy will produce a seat that looks as good as new.
10. Once the cover has been peeled up far enough, you should see the release for the headrest; remove the headrest.
11. Install the stays in the new seat back and pull it into place. This is really the reverse of the way you took it apart.
12. Once you have the cover in place with the stays hog-ringed to their correct locations and the cover tight over the foam, zip it closed at the bottom.
13. Using a sharp x-acto blade, cut the openings for the headrest and seat back release lever; use the original cover as a guide.
14. Reinstall the release lever cover and knob.
15. Now the fun really begins!
16. Remove the side bolster adjustment knob with a 5/64 Allen wrench.
17. Remove the seat tracks with a 10mm socket.
18. Remove the roll pins from the thigh support arms and pull the thigh support out the front of the seat.
19. The seat cover has four (4) plastic stays: front, back, and both sides. Unhook the sides and backs.
20. For me, it was easier to work from back to front; again paying attention to the location of all hardware. Again, if you feel it is necessary, draw a diagram as you work.
21. As you peel up the cover, you should notice two steel rods: one on each side. They are held in place by two steel loops. You will see what I mean if you do this. Unhook these rods and the cover should peel up rather easily from back to front. Once again: pay attention to the placement of the hardware.
22. About six (6) inches in from the back, you will find a stay with hog rings. Note the arrangement of the hog rings and then cut them with the wire cutters. This is the only horizontal stay but it is an important one.
23. Once you get the cover peeled off all the way to the front of the seat, you will see how these two steel rods hold the cover in place. A tip here: File the ends off the two rods so that the edges are rounded. The sleeves that these rods go in are easy to tear and if you do not have any edges for the sleeves to catch on, the installation will be a lot easier.
24. Install the new cover, working front to back. The hardest part for me was getting the hog rings around the horizontal stay and the other rod that the hog rings clamp to. Perseverance and patience works here.
25. Once you get the seat cover in position, checking bolster fit and overall "smoothness," it is time to cut out the holes for the mounting hardware, slots for the thigh support, etc. Again, use a sharp x-acto blade and cut only what is necessary. Use the original cover as a guide.
26. The thigh support has two Phillips screws holding the pull handle on. Remove these. There are two 8mm screws holding the front of the support together; remove these. A note of caution: These two screws go to nuts that are press-fitted into a perfboard form; they are very easy to strip so use caution when removing the screws.
27. The thigh support cover is stapled in place. I used a Swingline staple gun with 1/4-inch staples and had no problem; just note how the original was folded together and duplicate these folds.
28. Reassemble the seat and reinstall it in your SVO.

These seat covers are a quality product; they have the feel (and smell) of the original cover. I would like to thank Lee Clary at E&G Classics for reproducing these seat covers. They are simply the best around and are reasonably priced. If you are thinking about doing your seats, give Lee a call at 410-381-4900. He's fun to talk to.

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