The Speaker Guy Dedicated to Really Cheap Audio Enthusiasts

Design and Construction   I start with a ruler and measured around the interior, then made one side panel. I then took this into the cab and checked it for fit. I was lucky, got it right the first time. The darker gray on the extreme right of the photo is part of the air conditioning, and you can see faint pencil lines where I'll need to notch for it.

The 2 inch tall by 10 inch wide slot will extend across the entire bottom of the enclosure and defines the baffle. The woofer will fire down, and the sound will enter the cabin on both sides of the enclosure. I've not seen anything like this, so I hope it'll work.

Here is the baffle being cut with a saber saw. The opening for this woofer is 7.25 inches, and the flange has a very generous width, with the holes nearer to the outside edge. There looks to be about a full 0.5 inches from the hole centerline to the edge of the driver cutout. Thanks Vifa! The baffle piece is 9.5 inches wide and 11.5 inches long. Like the rest of the box this is 0.75 inch MDF. I'm not sure if I'll use T-Nuts or plain woodscrews. I guess I'll go to home depot tomorrow and get the T-Nuts. With the driver costing more than I usually pay I should go the extra mile.

Remember those warm spring days in math class saying "Why am I here in math class instead of outside. I'll never use this again in my life". Well, here's is where your teacher was right, you will use it again. Trigonometry is very useful for calculating angles. Here is a detail of an end piece with my hasty calculations. The formula is Angle = arctan (rise/run) It also helps to have a scientific calculator.

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