Piedmont's Lake District

Isola Bella - Stresa

Most people associate Italy's lakes with Lombardia or the Veneto, but Piedmont's share is just as beautiful. It includes the delightfully picturesque lake of Orta and the whole western half of Lake Maggiore, centered around the lovely town of Arona. Stop in here at the local tourist office (Piazzale Stazione) for maps of trails that lead around the lake.

If you enjoy beautiful gardens, Stresa is the town for you. On the road from Arona is the Villa Pallavicino (open March-October, 9am-6pm), glorious example of the art of blending manicured gardens with spontaneous local foliage. North of town is another magnificent garden, the 50-acre Villa Taranto (open April-October, 8:30am-6:30pm). From the landing stage in town, take a traghetto (ferry) over to the Isole Borromeo.

Because these three islands are so different from each other, it's worth visiting them all. Isola Bella, the nearest, is occupied mainly by Palazzo Borromeo, whose formally terraced gardens are open from April through October. The largest island, Isola Madre, has perhaps the most spectacular gardens of the whole area. It is a subtropical paradise (open April-October). Isola dei Pescatori, the third island, is a charming fishermen's village.

Lake Orta is a tiny jewel compared to Lake Maggiore, but it is utterly enchanting. The hills and mountains are closer here, and somehow this lends a fairy-tale atmosphere to the villages surrounding the water. The nicest is Orta San Giulio, whose pretty little town hall has a frescoed façade and whose narrow streets are lined with rococo homes. From here, take a ferry (or row your own rowboat) to the even more picturesque San Giulio Island. Pop into the 12th-century romanesque church to see its pulpit, one of the outstanding works of medieval sculpture in northern Italy.

Back in town, stroll up the hill from Piazza Motta until you reach the Sacro Monte, a flower-filled hillside dotted with 20 chapels dedicated to St. Francis. Begun in 1592 by a Capuchin architect, the chapels contain life-size marble tableaux vivants and frescoes showing scenes of the saint's life. Bring along some bread, cheese and wine for a most unforgettable picnic overlooking the lake. Or, if you're staying at a local hotel, ask them to pack a lunch for you.

      Last update: October 22nd, 1996