Even though the marina water is supposedly filtered with ultraviolet light, we still filter it several times more--putting it into the tanks and coming out to the faucets. We also use a hand filter/purifier (with iodine and carbon filters) for the water we drink. On top of that we also put bleach in the water as it sits in the tanks. (Sounds a little paranoid, I know, but we, and everyone around us, seem to have the obligatory bi-weekly case of trots. And for weeks we were unable to use the bathrooms because they were knee-deep in water from the worst flooding in the history of the river. Not to mention that most of the boats are too far away from the bathrooms to get to them in time with a severe case of dysentery. And of course there are no pump-out stations down here. So EVERYTHING goes into the river—the river water that is sucked up into the pump and the marina water system, filtered for our use. Need I say more?

The "Big City" on the Rio is Fronteras, a real wild and wooly west sort of town. Friendly enough during the daytime, but not too pleasant to hang around in at night. Not to mention that cayucas with large motors would not even notice if they ran over you in your little dinghy, as nobody uses lights on the river at night. The town is about ½ mile long, down the main drag. There are two places to catch buses, two pizza places and numerous "comedors" both inside buildings and outside. There is one "market" street, but recently stalls have started popping up under the bridge, which crosses the Rio Dulce and provides access to Guatemala City. The bridge spot seems to be the place to go now for the best deals—and not just food. You can buy clothes for as little as $1.00 (6 quetzales). Look at the labes inside your clothes. A lot of them will say "made in Guatemala"—I guess these are the seconds that don’t make it to the outlet malls!

The fresh veggies are plentiful and delicious here--broccoli, cauliflower, celery, lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers, potatoes, and onions are big sellers around here. I used to pay gringo prices, but now that I have determined what is what, I just hand the vendors how much I see the nationals pay and they don't argue. They also grow HUGE carrots here--I forgot how much I like carrots until now! The canteloupes are especially succulent—full of juice and flavorful—anywhere from $.24 to $.75. And then there are the oranges. They are two kinds—some are easy and woderful to eat; other are fibrous but juicy. So I make fresh-squeezed orange juice out of them. On market days (Wednesday and Sunday), trucks full of oranges pull up in the street and I buy 12 for $.12 (two quetzales).

Guatemala is the main provider of bananas for the US (remember, this used to be the United Fruit Company’s own private country), but most all of them are exported. I think the ones for sale fall off a truck as it was passing through town! But they also are reasonable—6 for $.12. And there are local apples that look sort of beat/pecked, but the flavor is good. When I have apple cravings though, there were one or two vendors who actually have Washington State "red delicious" for sale—at about US prices.

Of course I soak the vegetables and fruits that didn’t peel in iodine water before I use them. Not only does it kill bacteria, it kills the little bugs that hide among the leaves and other parts!

Limes are not as cheap as other fruits, but still, fresh limeade can’t be beat for quenching thirst! I used to splurge on Cokes ($1.90 for a 2-liter bottle) in the plastic bottles occasionally. Then I discovered the Coke distributor--I could get a case of 24 Cokes by the bottle for only $5.00. But I couldn't figure out how to lug them down the bridge embankment, across a stone-littered field, through Bruno’s Marina to the dinghy dock and into the small dinghy and then onto the boat without breaking half of them. Then I found out that Tienda Reed, a store right on the river, sold them for a bit more, but would load them in the dinghy. Then I would have some nice strong person at the marina help me unload them onto the cabin top, where I kept them under the cover. A 24-pack case of canned Cokes is $10.00, which of course is "only" $2.50 a 6-pack, but compared to $.16 for a stalk of celery or 6 limes or a giant cucumber, it was hard for me to justify the expenditure! So now I have bottles and Mike is happy and I am happy.

Of course we have had to resort to the gringo store at Mario's Marina. It is the only place outside of Guatemala City to find some things like Beanie Weenies, sauerkraut, and dill pickles. Tienda Reed also has items we thought we could live without but can't--Pringles and Tostitos. Both places have real "US" cheese--cheddar and Swiss. Only $6-7 for 1 pound. Sometimes you just have to have the stuff you are used to!