General Information

 

Basic Facts about Peru	Money
History	Accommodation
Culture Economic Shape	Media & Communications
Food & Drinks	What to do?
Holidays & Festivities	Your Stuff
Documents & Visa	Safety and Dangers
Transport	If I need help there?

 

BASIC FACTS ABOUT PERU

Name Republic of Peru

Location and Geography Peru is located in the western central coast of South America. It shares borders with Ecuador (N), Colombia (NE), Brazil (E), Bolivia (SE) and Chile (S). The West side, shared with the Pacific Ocean, is the main border that has a length of 3,079.5 km. There are four major natural regions: the 200 miles Peruvian Sea, a narrow coastal strip, the high Andes mountains and the vast and plain Amazon basin.

The Peruvian Sea area is called to that 200 miles (370km) of territorial sea that runs parallel to the coast. Here, the Pacific Ocean spreads a wealth of marine life, produced specially by the effect of the Humboldt Current cold water that encounters with the warm water of the El Niño Current. This phenomenon allows the presence of plancton, a microorganism (food for fishes) that has made this sea the richest of the world. In the Coast, la Costa, is settled the biggest part of the population and the major cities. It is mainly a desert area that is crossed by valleys of more than 40 rivers that run down from the western

Andes. This makes the coast an important region for advanced agriculture. It was the stage of the main pre-inca cultures. With the years it became the commercial centre of the country and an important input place for inland areas. The main products are cotton, rice, sugar, fruits, wine and metallic minerals.

The Andes or Sierra is the high region that goes from 2,000 metres to 6,768 metres above sea level (Huascarán mountain). It is divided in two main ranges: the Cordillera Occidental and the Cordillera Oriental. The Andean area has an average altitude of 3,000 metres and is full of plateaus, mountains, glaciers, valleys, canyons and rivers. The mountains give shape to an incredibly rugged surface. The Andes is a hard place, but offers one of the best sceneries in the world. The main products are potatoes, cereals and vegetables, and activities like cattle-raising, mining and weaving.

The Amazon Basin or Selva comes down from the eastern slopes of the Andes (2,000 to 84 metres) and covers more than 60% of the country´s area with rainforest. It is a tropical and almost uninhabited zone (no more than 5% of pop.) with the most biodiverse jungle and full-flowing rivers in the world. In the dense forest there is an explosion of life conformed by thousands of species of flora and fauna, most of them, unknown until today. The Amazonía is drained by the three biggest rivers: Marañon, Huallaga and Ucayali that together give birth to the Amazonas river, some kilometres before Iquitos city. Wood is the principal product, as well as rubber, rice, fruits, coffee, tea, petroleum and natural gas.

Area Peru is the third largest country in South America with an area of 1'285,216 km2. Comparing with some european countries, Peru is twice the area of France, five times the size of the UK, more than 30 times Netherlands or Switzerland and the size of Norway, Sweden and Finland together.

Population and People With a population of nearly 25 million, Peru has a wide ethnic mixture composed mainly by a 54% Indian, 32% Mestizo, 12% White and Spanish descent, 2% Black and Asian minority. The minorities, who live basically in the city of Lima and the coast, are immigrants who came from Asia (China, Japan), Africa (western coast), Europe (Spain, Italy, England, Germany, France, Switzerland, Israel, Polland, Belgium and Yugoslavia), North America (United States) and Middle East (Arabia).

Capital City Lima, located in the central coast of Peru. Has a population of over 7 million inhabitants.

Languages Spanish and Quechua (Inka´s language) are the two official languages in Peru. Although Spanish is the main one, Quechua is widely spoken in the Andes as well as Aymara in the southern Andes in the area of Lake Titicaca. In the Amazon there are more than 70 natives languages, belonging each one to a ethnic group. Some of the Andean people are bilingual (Quechua or Aymara and Spanish). English is spoken in the main touristic destinations and places.

Government Peru is ruled by democracy. A constitutional President, the chief of Executive Power, is elected every five years and can be re-elected one term more. The Legislative Power is based on a Congress of 120 members. The Judicial Power is composed by two Courts. Voting is compulsory for every citizen between 18 and 60 years old (militaries and police not allowed). The country is divided in 24 departments and a Constitutional Province, Callao.

Time GMT - 5. Five hours less than Greenwich Mean Time.

Electricity 220 volts AC, 60 Hz.

HISTORY

By far, Peru is the richest archaeological country in South America. Remains of archaeological sites are dispersed by all sides, especially in the coast and highlands. Weather conditions have made possible the good preservation of these sites. Reed huts, stone-piled rooms, painted caves, mud cities, stoned fortress and trails, are some of the different buildings we encounter in our exciting trip along Peru. This ancient land, which date from more than 20,000 years, is the "mecca" of archaeologists and historians. Although pre-columbian people never left us written sources; ceramics, textiles and metalwork designs have greatly helped scientists to know more about their culture, as well as the chronicles written after the conquest of the fabulous Inca Empire.

Pre-Inca The oldest remains of human presence (nomadic hunter-gatherers) have been found in the Piquimachay cave (Ayacucho) with a date of 20,000-10,000 BC between its different settlements. Other sites of this stage are Chivateros, Guitarrero, Cupisnique, Lauricocha and Toquepala; places with caves paintings, stone tools and plant seeds. The starting point of agriculture was by 4,000-5,000 BC with crops of cotton, beans, corn, chili and squash. Since 1,300 BC advanced cultures appeared, such as Chavín, Paracas, Mochica, Nazca, Tiahuanaco, Wari and the regional states of Chimú, Chincha and Chanka. This period lasted until the 15th century where the Inca Empire reached its highest expansion.

Inca Having Qosqo (Cusco) as its capital, the Tahuantinsuyu (Inca Empire) expanded till the areas of actual Ecuador, Colombia, Bolivia, Argentina and Chile. Pachacútec, the ninth Inca, was a great conqueror and builder. Most of his work is visible nowadays. After a century of life, the Tahuantinsuyu reached its end when Huáscar and Atahualpa made a civil war for being the successor of their Inca father Huayna Cápac. By this time (1532), Pizarro, the spanish conqueror, returned to Peru and took advantage of the situation. He captured, deceived and executed Atahualpa. Although, Inca´s people resisted for nearly 40 years, Spaniards finally defeated and put and end to Inca Empire.

Colony & Independence With Incas destroyed and controlling the spanish territory in South America, Pizarro founded Lima, called since then the City of Kings, which became the center of all political, social and commercial events in the continent. The Viceroyalty of Peru, rich and powerful, had to fight against those colonists who where tired of abuse and explotation of indians. One of their leaders and Inca noble, Túpac Amaru II, rebelled in 1780 but was defeated and put to death with other leaders in Cusco. This happening, among other unsuccessful uprisings, led the way to an independence aspiration. Emancipators were helped by Argentinian General José de San Martín, who declared Independence on 28 July 1821, and Venezuelan Liberator Simón Bolívar, who finally was in charge of the liberation of Peru with the decisive battle of Ayacucho on 9 December 1824. This last one, put an end to the presence and rule of Spain in America.

Contemporary The beginning of this century was marked by the recovery after the long war held with Chile between 1879-1883, which in fact was a matter of Bolivia and Chile, but Peru helped Bolivians and ended loosing territory. After this, governments were alternated several times between coup d'états and dictatorships to civil rules. Peru had also to face economic problems due to the heavy external (and eternal) debt. Poverty increased in highlands and caused a massive migration to the coast which resulted in overcrowding of cities like Lima, Trujillo, Chimbote and Arequipa. This situation helped to the appearing of terrorist groups (formerly guerrillas) like Sendero Luminoso (Shining path) and Movimiento Revolucionario Túpac Amaru (MRTA). They fought against the central government since the 80´s and caused more than 23,000 deaths and damages for nearly 25 billion of dollars.

Fortunately, Alberto Fujimori´s rule since 1990, has combated them, put in jail almost all the leaders and broke down both groups. This president oriented the fast-growing economy to the market and privatised the major peruvian companies. In April 1992, helped by military and police, he made himself a civil coup d'état closing the Congress and the Courts and established the government by decree. Constitution was changed by a new Congress. His rule also reduced inflation and signed peace with Ecuador from a long border conflict which began in 1941. Fujimori was re-elected in 1995 for a new period until 2000.

CULTURE

Along its history, Peru has received the influence of other cultures which made it richer and diversed. From its origins, art was dedicated to all objects made by hand like textiles, ceramic and metalwork. Then, cultures like Chavín, Wari or the Inkas introduced the stonework and the military-urban planning. With the arrival of Spanish conquerors, urban design refined and included big mansions and religious buildings with the use of high towers, curved and decorated ceilings, balconies and baroque porch and arcades. The creation of the Escuela Cusqueña and others in Arequipa, Lima and Quito was the claim of the locals to be independent from the spanish art style. Here was born the mestizo style, which results can be seen in the colonial paintings. Art was also strongly influenced by the catholic religion which mixed later with local traditions.

Music is ethnic in fact, with folklórica and huayno music representing the Andes and the criolla music to the coast. This last one received the important contribution of Afro music that came with black slaves from Africa. This happening made to appear the negroide music with strong incidence in the percussion and lively dances. Folk dances are several and each town has their own typical dance. Puno is the richest and known as the "Folkloric Capital of America", with more than 200 dances with colorful and expensive clothing.

Peruvian handicrafts are of good value. Although each town has markets and shops selling souvenirs, Lima is a good place where you find high quality and variety in objects, with no substantial difference in the price. The Indian markets are a good choice for shopping. You can find weavings, paintings, jewellery, ceramics, woodcraft, silver filligrees, alpaca sweaters and all kind of clothing and other crafts. Bargaining is possible in the markets and fairs. You have to be careful when buying original old ceramic or paintings because is illegal and you could have problems in the customs. The same fact goes for any specie of flora or fauna, unless you have a special permission.

ECONOMIC SHAPE

GDP US$ 30 billion

GDP per capita US$ 1,070 / year

Inflation 6.5% in 1997 (the highest inflation was 7,649.7% in 1990)

Industry Main industries in Peru are mining (metallic and non-metallic minerals), fishing (fish and fishmeal), metallurgy, textile, food, chemical and energy. Other economical activities are agriculture and cattle raising.

Annual Growth 7.2% (1997)

FOOD & DRINKS

The Gourmet's choice It is not a secret for nobody that Peru has a good reputation because of its food. Tasty, highly varied, hearty, filling and spicy could be some words to describe it. Apart from its ancestral tradition, peruvian food has received the influence of international food resulting in a great and superb mixture. Lima could be the starting point for a gourmet´s tour beginning with the wide criolla food, then the chifa, which is a mixture of peruvian and chinese food, and the regionally diversified native food (sp. from Andes and Amazon area). Among international restaurants we can find food from Italy, Spain, Japan, China, Korea, France, Arab, Germany, India, Mexico and Argentina. And as globalisation enhances, there is also a wide choice of junkie and vegetarian food for those who are faithful to their "habits and traditions". If you are on a tight budget go for a menú in a restaurant, which basically consists in a soup, a second dish and a drink.

Food The "must-eat" of peruvian dishes is the famous Ceviche (lemon-marinated raw fish with onions, red peppers, sweet corn, lettuce, boiled potato, sweet potato (camote) or yam (yuca). Other ones are escabeche, jalea de pescado, chupe de camarones, arroz con pollo, causa, carapulcra, rocoto relleno, lomo saltado, sopa a la criolla, cuy asado, parihuela, mondonguito, papa a la huancaína, ocopa arequipeña, palta rellena, estofado de carne, ollucos con charqui, chicharrón and anticuchos; to mention some of them.

Some respectable and unavoidable desserts and confections are picarones, mazamorra morada, arroz con leche, alfajores with manjar blanco, turrón de doña pepa, sanguito de pasas, suspiro limeño, humitas dulces, revolución caliente, tejas and panetón de Navidad.

Drinks The pisco sour will be surely the drink that you will miss everytime. It is made with pisco (the white grape brandy national drink), lemon juice, egg white, sugar, cinnamon powder and syrup or Angostura bitter. Algarrobina, chilcano and sol y sombra are also good cocktails. Guinda (cherry brandy), aguardiente (sugar cane alcohol), anisado (from anise) and rum are quite good spirits. The best wine options are Tacama and Ocucaje from Ica. Beers are available in lager and dark (known as malta or cerveza negra) types, which the best are Cusqueña and Arequipeña, in both types. Other known ones are Cristal, Pilsen Callao, Bremen and Malta Trujillo. A traditional alcoholic drink is the chicha de jora (made of andean corn), home-made available in the coast and highlands. In the rainforest, some native tribes prepare the strong masato made of fermented yuca (yam).

Chicha morada is a refreshing drink made of purple corn, common at lunchtime. Herb teas are varied and the most popular are mate de coca (good for altitude sickness), manzanilla, anís, hierba luisa, boldo, mint and eucalyptus. The best known of soft drinks (gaseosas) is Inca Kola. Fruits are of good quality and you can drink juices of naranja (orange), piña (pineapple), papaya, fresa (strawberry), maracuyá (passion fruit), sandía (watermelon), toronja (grapefruit), chirimoya (custard apple), guanábana (soursop), lúcuma (eggfruit), mango, mora (blackberry), and uva (grape). Coffee is widely available in restaurants, pubs and cafés; con leche (with milk), espresso, capuccino, decaf, moka, amaretto and others of your choice. The local tea (from jungle farms) is tasty and good; also available as té canela y clavo de olor (flavored with cinnamon and clove), té naranja (flavored with orange), té frutal (flavored with fruits essence) and black té. Hot chocolate is very popular in Christmas dinner.

HOLIDAYS & FESTIVITIES

All the main activities are closed in the following holidays: January 1st (New Year´s Day), *March/ *April (Holy Week), May 1st (Labour Day), June 29th (St. Peter and St. Paul Day), July 28th and 29th (Independence Day), August 30th (Santa Rosa de Lima), October 8th (Battle of Angamos), November 1st (All Saints´ Day), December 8th (Inmaculate Conception) and December 25th (Christmas).

DOCUMENTS & VISA

Travellers who arrive to Peru require only a valid passport and a return ticket (anywhere outside Peru). Visa is only necessary for travellers from New Zealand. If you wish to stay more than 90 days, you have to renew your Tourist Card (given free at your entrance) in the Dirección General de Migraciones in Lima (Av. España block 7, Breña, Lima; ph. 330-4111) or the main cities. One thing you have to take in account is to ask for at the moment your tourist card is given to put it for 60 or 90 days, because it is usually given for 30 days. Always carry your passport and tourist card (or a photocopy) when walking by the street or using a public transport in a city.

It is advisable to bring a student card (i.e. ISIC) to save money in places and services like museums, archaeological sites, buses, hotels and hostels. There is no need to have an international vaccination certificate, but if you travel to some areas where a disease is present (i.e. malaria, yellow fever), would be better if you are vaccinated before or in the peruvian major cities. All the foreign embassies and consulates are located in Lima and some of them are available in the main cities. Peruvian embassies and consulates are found in all the neighbouring countries and other countries in the world.

TRANSPORT

By Air The main international airport in Peru is the Jorge Chávez in Lima (Callao). Iquitos, Cusco, Puerto Maldonado and Chiclayo airports are also international but have less flights or restrictions. Lima´s airport is the central connection with the other surrounding countries. There is a tax for international departures (US$25) and domestic flights (S/.10) payable only by non-transit travellers. IGV tax is added to domestic flights. From Lima there are daily flights (with some exceptions) to the other south american countries. Direct and stop flights are available from USA, Canada, Europe and Asia. The domestic carriers are Tans, AeroContinente, AeroPerú

(now suspended), AeroCóndor, TdobleA, Lan Perú and the military airline Grupo Ocho (Faucett and Americana no longer operate).

For international flights you have to be at the airport 2 hours before the departure and 1 hour in domestic flights (although they put more time in the air ticket!). Some flights usually have a delay, especially in the afternoon. If you are going to travel inside Peru in high season, buy your tickets in advance and make your reservations as well. For all flights confirm your reservation twice if possible. You should buy your tickets outside Peru, it will be cheaper. Aeroperú offer an airpass ticket that used with an international flight will not be charged the IGV tax (avoid entering by land). Look the airlines, times, cities and flights here.

Buses Bus is the most common mean of transport in Peru. Roads and services in the coast are good. In mountain areas the government is making an effort to repair dirt roads and re-asphalt the main ones. Panamerican Highway (Tumbes-Lima-Tacna), Central Highway (Lima-La Oroya-Huancayo-Huancavelica or La Oroya-Pasco-Huánuco-Tingo María), Lima-Huaraz-Caraz and Vía Los Libertadores (Lima-Pisco-Ayacucho) are the best roads.

On raining seasons avoid taking the highlands roads. Because of landslides, the journey could last more than expected. If you are going to make a long travel by bus do not forget to have food and water (inc. blankets on highlands), unless you go in Royal or Imperial Class. Avoid eating in road restaurants; with some exceptions, they do not offer good food and they are expensive. When going to high altitudes is preferable to eat no more than a bit.

The most recommendable bus companies are Ormeño, Cruz del Sur, Oltursa and Civa. They have different kind of services and prices. Royal Class or Imperial service generally offer food, coffee, comfortable seats, air conditioned, toilet, hostess and TV-VHS. Regionally, there are other good companies, but cover short distances. As an average, buses price range is US$5 per 250km.

Taxi The safest mean of transport in each city. You must fix the taxi fare before the journey (no meters). Bargaining is possible with taxi drivers. If you are new in a city, is better if you ask for advice to locals about average charges to avoid more price because of being a "foreigner". Radio-taxis and hotel´s taxis are more expensive than the standard one (twice or three times). Always, taxi cabs "wear" a TAXI sticker in the windshield and others have the light on the roof. In Lima, for example, the local government is ordering this service and now you can see the "yellow taxis" which are better to take because they have insurance, mechanical services and touristic information, they also are allowed to enter to the Historic Center. In other cities, taxis have a standard rate for average distances.

Local bus The cheapest and common transport in a city. Local buses are called micros (big ones), combis or colectivos (minibuses or vans). They are usually crowded of people, so take care of your belongings. Price is very cheap and you can make a city round trip with them. Combis are the most awesome buses and they seem to be in a car race, a real experience!! To get off a bus just say baja ! (go down) or esquina ! (corner). Always request your bus ticket saying boleto.

Trains Travelling by train is an amazing and nice adventure. All trains go by spectacular landscapes and sceneries, climbing and passing the Andes. By far they are the higher ones in the world. There are two main railroads that offer the following routes: Lima-Huancayo, Huancayo-Huancavelica, Arequipa- Juliaca- Puno, Puno-Juliaca-Cusco and Cusco-Machu Picchu. They offer two classes, the second one is cheaper but less comfortable. Other connections (like M. Picchu train) offer pullman, buffet and tourist cars, which of course, are more expensive than the two first ones.

Good meals are served in trains and the staff is very helpful. In some railways they let you to take photographs from outside, even near the locomotive!! One thing you should take care when going in a "class" train is theft. Reports have been given about the Arequipa-Puno night train. The train company, ENAFER, is nearly to be privatised and they will make new projects on it.

Truck In remote mountain and jungle areas, trucks are sometimes the only alternative for transport. The fare is determined by the driver, although sometimes they do not charge you. With cargo or not, you have to climb in the back, unless the driver cab is unoccupied or he invites you to seat there. Going in the back at a clear day offers you the chance to take good pictures of the landscape.

Boat In the amazonic area, boat and canoes are the most common mean of transport between cities and villages. They act as taxis or buses where these ones are not available. A trip to Iquitos from Pucallpa may last four days, and from here to the border with Brazil and Colombia, two days more. When travelling, always have your hammock, repellent and water. Just wonder around the docks to know which boat departs, destination and time. Fix the price with the boat owner or captain. For little trips, a canoe can be hired for some hours.

In the Lake Titicaca area there are several islands which can be visited daily by boat or ship. The smaller ones are cheap and depart from Puno port. Price can be arranged there and if you are in a group bargaining can be made for a good discount. An expensive service by ship makes the trip to the bolivian side of the lake with bus connection to La Paz.

Llamas and donkeys In the Andes, you can hire these animals to load your packs when going on long trekking trails, expeditions and round trips to the mountains. In the villages, you can talk with the peasants to arrange a llama or donkey and fix the price in advance. Sometimes, you have to give food to the animal carrier or they can cook for you. Try to be as just as possible, because often it is the only work they have.

MONEY

Currency The new currency since 1991 is the NUEVO SOL, that replaced the devaluated and former "Inti". The sign used for Soles is S/. and the least unit is a 5 cents (cinco céntimos) coin, although a Sol is composed of a hundred cents. Also there are coins of 10, 20 and 50 cents and 1, 2 and 5 Soles. Notes are of 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 Soles.

Costs Costs in Peru are far less than any other non-south american country, a bit higher than Ecuador and Bolivia, but less than Brazil and Argentina. The cost for a budget traveller is around US$20-25 per day in a basic basis. Prices are cheaper in provinces and small towns, being Lima and Cusco the most expensive cities. The daily cost vary because of trips that cover great distances between each destination in Peru.

Exchanging money US dollar is the most popular currency after the Soles. Exchange can be made at banks, casas de cambio (exchange offices) or with street-changers. All have similar rates, but commonly you will find the best rates in the street, near the banks or in commercial areas. When dealing with street-changers, be aware of changer´s identification, calculator and the quality of notes. Other currencies could be exchanged but only in major cities banks. Try to have notes in good conditions; torn, patched or old ones can be rejected by people, shops or banks.
* Exchange rate: US$1 = S/.3.33 Nuevos Soles (September ´99) - Currency Converter

Plastic money and Traveller cheques Credit cards are widely accepted in the majority of cities, especially Visa. Others are Diners Club, American Express and Access/Master Card. They are commonly charged an 8% commission. Cash can be withdrawn only with local currency and without commission.
Traveller´s cheques are changed by banks and casas de cambio and a small rate is added (depending which bank). Outside the main cities it could take a long time. There is an office of American Express in Lima.
* There is a wide availability of ATM´s machines in Peru.

Taxes A tax, IGV (General Tax to Sales), is added automatically to the bills (18%). In some up-market hotels or restaurants, other "known" taxes could be added. There are some geographical areas that have other taxes but less than IGV. At the airport, the traveller must pay a departure tax; international flight US$25, domestic flight S/.10. On-transit travellers must not pay it.

ACCOMMODATION

There is a wide offer of places for sleeping, since a family or youth hostel for US$5 to an up-market five stars luxury hotel. In high touristic season is highly advisable to book a room before arriving Peru or to have some options to choose after. Also be aware about the festivities dates and weekends because in these days accomodation could be tight. Out of the high season bargaining is possible in some hostels. In some remote areas where an hotel is not available, you could request for a bed or some floor space (if you have a sleeping bag) in a family house, farm or store.

Hotels These places are usually located around the squares, main avenues and commercial areas. The cheapest one have a price since US$40. They have all kind of services like hot water, carpet floor, TV & cable, phone, bar, etc. They usually charge additional taxes (20-25%), out of the IGV (18%).

Hostals They are commonly cheaper than a hotel and price ranges are from US$15 to US$50. Hostals consist basically in a room with or without bathroom and hot water is available in the main places. They usually have double, triple and quad rooms, which can be a good cheap option when travelling in groups.

Youth Hostels In Peru there are nearly forty youth hostels spreaded in the main cities and destinations. In the majority of them, a student card is required and others have a non-student rate. Prices go from US$5 the bed or room. In these places you usually share the room with other partners, because sometimes is difficult to find a single room.

Family Family hotels or pensiones are maybe the cheapest way to get a bed. These are houses with a local permission to give the service. A good part of this hotels are B&B, where the breakfast is included in the bed price. Depending on the location, the price can be between US$3 and US$7. In remote areas, you can kindly ask for a space in a house.

Camping Camping offer no difficulties in Peru, especially in the coast and national parks. In the coast, camping can be made near beaches and in the desert, but far away from the cities. In the Andes, look for a secure place. Sometimes you can camp near or inside a farm, ask before to the owner. People in this area is generally hospitable. In the rainforest, is better to have a guide and a basic medicine kit.

In protected areas like national parks and reserves, first check with the guardaparques about routes and conditions of the place.

MEDIA & COMMUNICATIONS

Telephone The phone service is carried by the Telefónica del Perú and BellSouth/Tele2000 (only mobile). In the street there are plenty of public phones for coins and phone cards. The basic service (3min) costs S/.0.50. Long distance calls cost at least S/. 1.00 (1min) and the international calls S/.3.50 (1min) to more. Phone calls to mobile phones cost S/.1.00 a minute.

BellSouth/Tele2000 celullar phone booths are a little higher than Telefónica for the basic service. The reduced cost (50%) time is between 10:59-06:59. In phone offices all kinds of calls can also be made at the same or less price (directly). To dial direct from Peru to other country, first dial 00 + country code + city code + number. If it is a long distance call inside Peru, dial 0 + city code + number. All the public phones and offices are provided with printed sheets of Peruvian cities, countries and areas codes.

Fax Sending fax is possible using the public booths of Telefónica along all the cities of Peru. Shops, hotels and private companies do the service for a slightly more price. The cost is charged per page/min/destination and is a bit more than a minute phone call. These places can also receive incoming faxes to you, a little charge is added.

Post Office The postal services in Peru have been improved since them are managed by a private company (Serpost S.A.). A letter from Peru to USA or Europe can take from 5 to 15 days. Now, the basic service is reliable, but if you prefer, send it safely by certificado (registered mail). The main post office is located half block near the Government Palace in Lima. There are other offices in Miraflores, San Isidro, Jesus María, etc. Is also possible to use the same postal service in the supermarkets like E.Wong, Metro and Santa Isabel. Parcels has to be made at the Correo office in Av. Tomás Valle, 6th block, near the airport. You have to check with customs in case of large parcels. Incoming mail is possible to receive at every main post office and in the South American Explorers Club (if member).

Internet: public booths and cybercafés Internet is dramatically increasing in Peru. It has greatly developed in less than 5 years. Now there are a lot of Internet Service Providers (ISP) and a wide availability of internet public booths in the main cities. They also offer services like PC-to-phone international calls, video-conferences, e-mail accounts, info searchs, etc. and the average cost per hour is S/.4 (US$1.3). The cibercafés are also on vogue and you can find them in Lima, Cusco and Arequipa. Go clicking while you enjoy a special coffee, pie or drink. Check this long list of Internet booths in all the country.

Radio, TV & Cable There are plenty of radio stations in both AM and FM frequencies. It is possible to tune in foreign short wave stations with a proper radio. The TV open signal is composed by 9 channel networks (in spanish). The main and former ones are América Televisión and Panamericana Televisión. The cable system (Cable Mágico and TeleCable) is also popular and offers near a hundred channels in different languages, and almost 10 of then are from Peru. Cable is available in nearly all the hotels of main areas.

Newspapers and magazines The main newspaper in Peru is El Comercio (since 1839). Others are Expreso, La República, El Sol, El Peruano (official), Gestión and Síntesis. All these are published in Lima and some of them have regional issues. Each main city has at least one regional paper. The best magazine is Caretas. In Lima is possible to buy foreign newspapers (english, german, french, chinese and japanese), especially in downtown and Miraflores. There is a monthly magazine in english called The Lima Times. Another good choice is Rumbos, an interesting bilingual travel magazine.

WHAT TO DO?

Cultural One thing Peru offers in abundance is its rich cultural heritage, not only material but human. Peru is virtually spreaded of ethnical expressions such as typical dances, colourful costumes, ancient custom and rituals, superb food and laborious and detailed handicrafts. This people also left a great quantity of archaeological, historic and religious buildings which now stand as mute witnesses of the peruvian historic path. So, for those who are fascinated in cultural travel, Peru is one of their main destinations.

Adventure The hardness of Peru´s surface has created different conditions for enjoying an adventure travel. From walking between sea and desert, hike the rough and snowy Andes mountains with multicolour lakes to exploring the virgin and lively rainforest. Is possible, at the same time, to do activities like: kayaking, scuba diving, parasailing, hang gliding, bungee jumping, canoeing, mountaing biking, trekking, exploring, windsurfing, climbing, horse riding, fishing, hiking, canyoning, skiing, sand & snowboarding, surfing, rock climbing...nearly an adventurer´s paradise!

Nature But if you want just more than that, you will know the reasons why Peru is one of the most important spots for naturalists, scientists and nature lovers from all over the world. The great Amazon Basin is the starting point to admire the huge biodiversity this country has. But incredibly, you will also admire when finding new species in the coastal belt and the high andean mountains. Great national parks and reserves are found throughout all Peru.

Mystical Unless you do not wish the emotion and action involved in the other activities, your visit to Peru can be filled by the mistery and mysticism of some quiet, isolated or magnificent places available there. From some years ago, travellers are choosing Peru because of its proved magnet vortex and special mystic spots which are found in the Andes, the jungle and the coast.

YOUR STUFF

Film & Photography Although you will not find them in every shop you go, good films are available in some main cities, specially Lima. Fuji, Kodak, Agfa, Konica, Polaroid and Forte can be bought in different speeds and types. From 50 ASA to 400 commonly and 1600 scarcely in few shops. Colour negative film, black and white film and slide (transparency film) could be your choices. The most common formats are 35mm, 120mm and Advantix (from Kodak). 6x6 and other

professional formats can be hardly bought at photography schools or specialized shops. These shops also sell accesories such as batteries, cleaning kits, lenses, bags, tripods, flashes, cable releases, filters and do technical services. For detailed contact have a look to the Photography item in section about Lima. Print and slide processing is better than average in some shops.

Video Video cassettes are popular in the formats of VHS and Hi8 or V-8. S-VHS is also available but in special stores. Sony, TDK, Panasonic, Maxell, and Philips cassettes come in durations up to 6 hours.

Camping Gear Lima, Cusco, Huaraz and Arequipa are the cities in which you will find the more quantity of camping gear, for buying or renting. From tents, sleeping bags, matress, rucksacks, kitchens, gas canisters, lanterns to Swiss knives. Prices are higher than origin country, so check before if possible. When you want to use equipment only for trekking or medium expeditions you can hire them in Cusco or Huaraz for example.

SuperMarkets The biggest supermarkets are located in Lima, these are E.Wong, Santa Isabel, Metro (hyper one!) and Top Market. You can find almost everything there at average prices, from a tampom to a ramen soup. Look for in newspapers the days in which they make special offers. In other cities there are less and smaller supermarkets.

What to bring A backpack is the most comfortable bag for travelling. Always have a smaller one for walking in cities. Use boots or trekking shoes, have a multipurpose Swiss-kind knife and do not forget your camera! About cloth bring a sweater (or buy there an alpaca one), a polar coat, trousers, cotton t-shirts, wool socks; or if you come in summer have your t-shirts, BVDs, shorts, sandals sunscreen and cap ready to use! If you are planning to adventure have your sleeping bag, repellent and optionally tent and kitchen (they can be hired). Do not forget a notebook for your notes, contacts and commentaries.

Travel Guides & Books Indispensable to have your printed pages of the PERU Traveller Guide website when going to Peru. Along with this, some recommended travel guides are the Peru Handbook, South American Handbook (Footprint Handbooks), Lonely Planet Peru: a travel survival kit, South America Guide (Lonely Planet), Peru: The Rough Guide, Exploring Cusco (by Peter Frost) and Backpacking and Trekking in Peru and Bolivia (by Hilary Bradt). Visit our recommended Travel Guides and Books page.

Peruvian literature is famous and you should read or have books from Mario Vargas LLosa, Alfredo Bryce Echenique, Julio Ramón Ribeyro, José María Arguedas, Ciro Alegría and César Vallejo. Ranging from fiction to indigenist literature these writers have been translated to several languages: indian tales, contemporary novels, ironic writings and human poems.

Maps The best choice for accurate topographical maps is the Instituto Geográfico Nacional (IGN), that located in Av. Aramburú 1190, San Isidro (Lima) ph. 475-9960, has a hall where you can check areas, choose and buy maps of different scales. If you want hiking maps visit the South American Explorers Club, where you will find a good selection of them along with some IGN maps.

SAFETY & DANGERS

Health Risks are few out of these tropical infectious diseases like malaria, yellow fever and hepatitis which are present in the Amazon Basin and Tumbes (malaria). If you are planning to visit the lowlands of the Amazon Basin is preferable to be vaccinated against yellow fever and malaria. Altitude mountain sickness, called soroche, happens at the higher andean areas. If you plan to bike for long distances, would be a good idea to have a rabies vaccination, because of the great number of dogs in each town and village. Travellers who follow the proper precautions will not have problems with food and drink.

Violence & Theft Although physical violence in Peru is not as extreme in cities such as Rio de Janeiro, Bogotá or New Orleans, we cannot deny that it has problems with security. Thieves are "available" as pickpockets, muggers, bag and watch snatchers, razor-blade pack slashers and confidence tricky. Lima and big cities like Arequipa, Trujillo, Huaraz and Cusco are safe in average but offer their risks when care is not taken in account, especially in crowded, dark and lonely areas. For a best knowledge of the peruvian situation, we are preparing a guide to avoid being robbed in Peru, including the newest scams; soonly will be linked here.

There have been a border dispute with Ecuador since 1942 which have resulted in multiple military conflicts. The area in dispute was the Cordillera del Cóndor. The last conflict was held in the area of the Cenepa river in the border region. Lastly, Ecuador respected history and recognised the original borderline. On October 1998, Ecuador and Peru signed a peace treaty to end with the long dispute and complete the settlement of landmarks along the border.

Terrorism Almost dissapeared, terrorism is no longer a threat for citizens. The last isolated action was the "Hostage Crisis" which was completely controlled by the peruvian government. A strong fight has been held by the government since 1990 to reduce terrorism. The two groups Sendero Luminoso (Shining Path) and Movimiento Túpac Amaru are entirely dismounted and have all their leaders in jail. Despite this, there are some members that claim they have survived and are allied with drug traders operating in the lonely areas of the Amazon jungle.

Women solo There are a lot of women requiring information about travelling alone in Peru. In fact, there are no great risks besides the ones mentioned in the topic of Violence & Theft. But, to add to this, there have been some reports (some, we said) about rapes to women, which mainly happened in dark and isolated areas. The general rule is to avoid these areas and to have a minimum common sense to by pass these situations. Some travellers have commented that it is really a matter of bad luck than a risk.

There is the strong belief that blonde hair attracts the attention of the southamerican men. This is partly true as they are not accostumed to see a blonde woman in their culture (only by TV). As long as visitors are increasing in number these fact would change in some years. But, this does not hide the matter that southamerican men are machist in great percentage (specially in lower classes). So, if you hear somebody throwing you a nice bouquet do not feel ashamed or get annoyed unless it is a bothersome one (also for men!). Anyway, it is a fact of their own culture that you should learn to accept. Check here soonly for the experienced comments and tips of women that visited Peru.

Drugs If you travel to Peru and think to recover your money by taking some "white stuff" to your country, please forget this, because these customs officers are the best hounds in the world!! The punishment for carrying, purchasing or using drugs (specially cocaine) is up to 15 years in a peruvian cold jail. Also, reject any intention of someone sending packs with you (to/from Peru), unless you know very well this person or what is inside the pack.

IF I NEED HELP THERE?

Promperú - SPT The Tourist Protection Bureau (Servicio de Protección al Turista) has been created to receive claims from travellers about any service they have used or are using and is different from what was offered at first. They have a 24-hour hotline, by phone call or fax to 224-7888, outside Lima dial first 01 or call toll free to 0-800-4-2579 (not available from pay phones). Or you can send a message to: tour@indecopi.gob.pe.

SAEC The Lima Clubhouse of the South American Explorers Club can help you in "emergencies or when problems arise" (sic). They also store equipment, have good travel info and give contact addresses to members. If you want to contact them, just mail to: montague@amauta.rcp.net.pe, visit their website or go to the clubhouse in Avenida Portugal 146, Breña, Lima. Tel/fax: (51-1) 425-0142.

Tourist Police Tourist police officers are distinguished from others by its white shirt. They are available in the main areas of Peru. They help you giving useful information about spots to visit in each city and they also receive claims about services, robberies or dangers. Always ask them for advice about dangerous areas. English-speaking available.

In case your belongings have been stolen and want to make a denunciation, go to the Tourist Police in the city where you are or call/visit their office in Lima, phone: (01) 476-7708, Av. Javier Prado Este block 24 (left side of Museo de la Nación). If you go to their offices, make an accurate declaration of all what has been stolen and pay for your stamped paper. The denuncia paper can be useful to you for showing to authorities when you do not have documents anymore.

Embassies If you want to contact your embassy or consulate in search of help, just look for it in the main cities or give a view to this list of consulates in Lima and other cities.