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Livingstone, Victoria Falls and Chobe

22-29 May 1999

Saturday 22 May - Kitwe to Livingstone

After getting home at 2.30am, rather the worse for wear following an evening celebrating the arrival of half term, it was a bit of a shock to be up at 5.15 to get the bus to Lusaka. I was travelling with Ruth (German teacher) and Lisa (Art teacher) and we planned to go to Livingstone, where we had booked accommodation, and then to visit Botswana. We needed to get a bus as early as possible to get another one on to Livingstone. As is usual in Zambia, the bus did not leave on time, but waited until it was full before starting the journey around 6.30.

Having covered the 350km to the capital in around three and three-quarter hours, we set about finding a bus to take us the rest of the way. Unfortunately, two luxury buses had already gone and there were no more scheduled, so we had to walk to the main bus station to find an alternative. On arrival there, we were quickly hustled onto a rather dilapidated-looking bus, and our bags were hoisted onto the roof. The conductor assured us that there were only four places to fill, and as there were three of us it would not be long until the bus left. However, when we boarded the bus it soon became that there were in fact at least six more places to fill even after we had got on.

As we waited, all manner of people passed trying to sell us their wares through the window. Everything from drinks to cuckoo clocks was on offer, and it provided some entertainment as we waited. We managed to persuade one man (who was convinced I was from Israel!) that Ruth and Lisa were my two wives and we told another man, who was trying to sell us a photo album with a picture of Tower Bridge on its front, that we weren’t interested unless he told us what was on the front. He replied incredulously, "It’s a picture!"

After waiting for about an hour, we were eventually on our way, bumping our way along the Zambian roads. The Lusaka to Livingstone road is one of the country’s major routes, but is badly potholed in places, and in this bus we felt every one of them. We passed through the towns of Mazabuka, Monze and Choma without incident, but soon after Choma we shuddered to a halt. We had to wait at the roadside while the driver and conductor replaced a flat tyre.

After eight hours of juddering along, we eventually pulled into Livingstone around 8pm. We had pre-booked a chalet at Nyala Lodge, where I had stayed in October and December, and we had told Moyra (who runs the lodge with her husband Mat) that we expected to arrive around 6pm. However, they were able to provide us with a meal and we retired to our beds exhausted.

Sunday 23 May – Jumping into the gorge

Nyala Lodge had changed radically since December as they had built a massive thatched bar and restaurant area. Work was still taking place and Moyra took us around to show us what they were doing. They had decided to concentrate on the tents like the one we stayed in over New Year. They were adding en suite facilities to the tents, and it all looked very impressive.

After breakfast Moyra took us to see Paul, whom I had met on both my previous visits, who had put into action his idea of abseiling. He had set up a platform and was offering people a whole day’s activity with lunch included. In addition, he had set up a "high-wire". This was a wire across the gorge with a pulley on top. The idea was that you put on a harness and were attached to the pulley. You then ran out and launched yourself into the gorge. After watching a few abseils and a bit of high wire activity, I decided to give the wire a go. I was harnessed up and attached to the wire, and was soon shooting out over the gorge. After a few seconds dangling, I felt myself being pulled back to the cliff top, and got ready for another go. The wire was about 200 metres long, and I went about two-thirds of the way across. It was quite an experience!

After lunch and watching a few more abseils, we were returned to Nyala Lodge in time to be picked up for a sunset cruise on the Zambezi – known by everyone as a "booze cruise". Soon into the cruise we were watching a white rhino wandering along the side of the river and enjoying a stunning sunset, wineglass in hand. As the boat approached its mooring at the end of the trip, the waiters on board started singing and dancing around the boat, with a number of slightly inebriated tourists in tow. We returned to Nyala to plot our next move.

Monday 24 May – Thundering Smoke

Our next step was to get across the border into Zimbabwe before deciding how we would get to Botswana. Moyra had given us the name of a friend of hers who organises trips to Chobe National Park, Botswana from Victoria Falls town in Zimbabwe. Before going anywhere, we decided to go and see the Victoria Falls (Mosi-Oa-Tunya, Smoke that Thunders). Moyra took us to the entrance of Mosi-Oa-Tunya Park, which has pathways enabling people to view the falls. As Zambian residents, we got in for the local rate and we were soon gasping at the volume of water cascading into the gorge.

Where we had walked across the cliff top in October was completely covered and the spray being thrown up made it almost impossible to see the Falls themselves in places. As we crossed the "Knife-Edge Bridge", we were drenched by the spray. The noise of the water was quite overwhelming, and the rainbows created by the sun shining through the spray were amazing. We wandered back to the road and went to the Zambezi Bridge where people were queuing to attach themselves to a bungee rope and dive into the gorge.

We returned to Nyala Lodge to collect our bags and then crossed the bridge into Zimbabwe. We checked into the Spray View Hotel and decided what we would do next. There were several ways of getting to Botswana. The border is only 70km from Victoria Falls and so it would be quite feasible to hire a car and drive there. Alternatively, we could find out about bus services or look at the various options of organised safaris to Chobe National Park. In the end, we decided to follow Moyra’s advice and called Russell, the friend about whom she had told us.

He was running his safari operation from a large house in the residential part of the town where he had also recently built rooms for bed and breakfast. We were surprised to find that Russell was in a wheelchair. This was the result of a tragic car accident, which left him paralysed from the waist down – he had been a very keen runner, close to international standard. He first demanded to know why we weren’t staying at his lodge, and then told us what he was offering. Basically, it was a three-day safari, including a boat trip, game drives, camping in good tents and all food and drinks. We decided to go for it!

Having made the arrangements, we went back into town to take high tea at the Victoria Falls Hotel, complete with smoked salmon sandwiches, scones and stunning view. We then wandered around "The Kingdom" and brand new hotel complex next to the Vic Falls Hotel. It had a big casino as well as shops and eating areas. We sat in a bar and had a pre-dinner drink before going to the Explorers’ Bar in another part of town for dinner.  

Tuesday 25 May – A new country

We were met after breakfast and taken in a small minibus to the Botswanan border at Kazangula, on the way looking back across the Zambezi into Zambia. After getting the relevant stamps in our passports we were met by our Botswanan guide Russ and joined by a British couple called Zoë and Raf (short for Rafael) who were coming on a two-day safari. They described themselves as "City head-hunters" and were in the final week of a six-month trip around the world funded on the strength of their bonus! Russ took us on our vehicle to the boat where we met up with about a dozen day-trippers for a three-hour trip on the Chobe River.

The Chobe is a major tributary of the Zambezi and actually flows in opposite directions according to how high the Zambezi is. At this point, the river separates Botswana from the Caprivi Strip of Namibia, which was therefore the fourth country we had seen and it was not yet 10am! The cruise was our first taste of the extraordinarily rich variety of wildlife found in Chobe. We saw hippos, crocodiles, monkeys and elephants as well and brightly coloured birds and we watched on as a flock of small birds dive-bombed a monitor lizard on the shore as it tried to dig for eggs. We passed the "disputed island" to which Namibia and Botswana both hold claim, but over which the Botswanan flag flies.

After returning to the mooring point, we were taken in our vehicle to the Chobe Safari Lodge for lunch. There was a lavish spread laid on, which we enjoyed with a feeling of slight superiority, as we had been put on a table separate from the day-trippers.

After lunch, Russ told us that he was going to get some diesel and that he would be right back. We went to the car park at the front of the lodge to wait for him and chatted with Zoë and Raf. Half an hour went by with no sign of Russ. After three-quarters of an hour of sitting in the car park, we decided to investigate and Lisa phoned the company in Vic Falls. Typically, just as she went to phone, Russ turned up, apologising and saying that there had been a power cut at the petrol station and that he had to find one with a generator backup.

So we boarded the vehicle, a large open four-wheel drive with room for about ten people, so plenty of space for the five of us. We entered Chobe National Park and before we had even passed the park offices (which are about a kilometre past the entrance) we were looking at a small herd of elephants by the river as well as impala and a few monkeys. As we drove further into the park, it soon became apparent just how rich in wildlife this place was. Giraffes looked nonchalantly on as we passed by and elephants chomped at trees while vultures peered down from the tops of trees.

After driving for a couple of hours, we reached our camp where our tents had been put up and the covered eating area prepared. We stopped briefly to make use of the campsite’s facilities and continued. Our major objective was to see lions – we had told Russell in Vic Falls that we wouldn’t speak to him again unless we had seen some. As the sun headed towards the horizon, we were told by a group in a vehicle coming in the opposite direction that there was a lioness just around the corner. As we rounded the bend with the river to our right, there under a bush was the fabulous sight of the lioness serenely perusing the area to see whether there was anything for dinner – impala, buffalo or giraffe would do. Russ told us that there were likely to be others around as lions hunted in prides, stalking their prey and preparing for ambush. She was not bothered in the slightest by us as we snapped away with our cameras. After watching for ten or fifteen minutes, we turned back and headed back to the camp, watching the glorious sunset over the Chobe River.

Before reaching the camp we stopped behind another vehicle whose passengers had obviously spotted something. We pulled up alongside and watched as two more lionesses walked on ahead with four cubs in tow. We followed them for a while until we spotted something in the distance coming towards us. It was a male lion on the lookout for a suitable mate. He was a truly awesome sight, with his full golden mane and sleek body, slowly walking towards the group of females. Eventually, the pride disappeared into the bushes and by this time the light was fading fast.

We returned to the camp, thrilled with what we had seen, to be treated to a wonderful three-course meal prepared by Mercedes, our cook – quite unlike any camp food I’d ever had before! We spent an hour or so after dinner sitting around the campfire before retiring to our tents. These were dome tents, tall enough to stand up in, and inside there were camp beds with duvets and blankets prepared for us. So, with hippos grunting away in the river (the campsite was at the top of a steep riverbank) and cicadas chirping, we drifted off to sleep.

Wednesday 26 May – Cats, seen and unseen.

Russ woke us at about 6am and after a cup of coffee we were back in the vehicle and heading off into the bush. It was quickly getting light, and soon we were watching the sunrise over the river. After a few minutes, we were again watching a lioness basking in the golden morning light. We noticed another lioness asleep under a nearby bush, and the same cubs we had seen the previous night were wide awake and playing. After a while, the group got up and started to move off in the direction from which we had come. We were not the only group who had spotted the cats and soon a whole fleet of four-wheel drives was following the pride as it moved to find a suitable place to stalk its prey. Not surprisingly, there were no other animals near them.

After watching for some time, we drove on past impala and more elephants. Zoë had decided that we should sing a song for each animal we saw, mostly songs from The Lion King. Having not seen the film, I was at a distinct disadvantage!

By 10.30 we were back at the camp where Mercedes had prepared a fantastic brunch. After we had finished, Mercedes was clearing up, and a huge pack of mongooses arrived to see if there was any chance of getting some food.

We had decided that we wanted to get some postcards and get a chance to spend some Botswanan Pula, which had taken some effort to obtain in Kitwe. We all clambered back into the vehicle and headed off again. It took well over an hour to reach the park entrance and the small town of Kasane just outside, and once again we were treated to some great game – elephants, impala, sable and buffalo.

The small shop where we bought our various bits and pieces was very well stocked – quite a contrast to Zambia. Botswana has one of the strongest economies in Africa and the currency has remained stable for some years. The currency would be even stronger but for the significance of the country’s trade with neighbouring South Africa. Botswana is a little larger than France in area although its population is only around two million. That makes for one of the lowest population densities in the world. The government maintains a neutral stance in the region and follows mostly pro-Western policies. It has a strict policy on tourism, only allowing a certain number of tourists into the National Parks annually and ensuring that they are charged enough to maintain and protect the environment.

After making our purchases, we bought stamps from the Post Office and returned to the camp to write our cards. Zoë and Raf were leaving that evening, although they seriously discussed staying another night. They wanted to visit Bulawayo before returning to Harare for their flight back to Britain at the weekend. So they got their belongings together and loaded them onto the vehicle before we set out on another game drive. Johan, the owner of the safari company, was at the camp and told them that they would be met by another vehicle to take them back to Zimbabwe. Russ suggested that this time we took some wine with us and so he loaded two bottles into the cool box.

After an hour or so, we suggested that it was time we opened the wine. Just at that point, we met the other vehicle, which was to take Zoë and Raf back. They were, to say the least, disappointed at missing out on the wine, and we said our goodbyes as they swapped vehicles. We had really hit it off with them and they had been excellent company.

Soon we were back at the riverside watching a lioness again, with elephants cooling themselves in the river a little further along. As if this were not idyllic enough, the afternoon sun was warming us as we sipped the wine.

We drove on further, and Russ said he would take us to leopard country. It is the tourist’s ambition in Africa to see the "Big Five" (lion, elephant, buffalo, rhino and leopard) and so far this week we had seen four of them. We drove into an area of thicker bush, apparently the leopard’s preferred habitat. We passed the odd elephant and giraffe, but leopards were not to be seen. Eventually, as the sun started to sink, we headed back to the camp. Just before reaching the site, a group in a vehicle coming the other way said they had just seen a leopard kill an impala. We headed to the spot and saw the poor creature lying there. We stayed to see whether the leopard would return to start its meal, but there was no sign of it. Eventually, as it became too dark to see, we returned to the camp, which was only a couple of minutes away.

As we sat down to another great meal, we were joined close-by by elephants eating their dinner of leaves and branches. One elephant was very close to the ablution block and Russ had to drive us the thirty metres or so to avoid any elephantine confrontations. A little later, we heard a rustling as a honey badger arrived to scavenge for food. Russ told us that these creatures can be very aggressive, so we kept well out of its way. As we ate, we heard elephants trumpeting to each other from either side of the camp. Russ calmly informed us that this was probably because there were lions in the area. Having heard that, once I was safely zipped inside my tent, there was no way I was getting out! I have to admit I was a little worried when at around 4am I was woken by a scratching sound outside the tent…

Thursday 27 May – Warthogs

It was just as well that I hadn’t got out of my tent to investigate the noise as Russ said that it was the honey badger from last night. Russ had asked if we wanted to get up early to investigate the dead impala and see whether the leopard had come back. He woke us at 5.30am and we had a coffee before setting off at 6am, the earliest driving is allowed in the park. Leopards were again elusive but we did manage to catch a rare glimpse of two jackals, who had obviously reaped the benefits of the previous evening’s kill.

We drove on further away from the camp than we had been before, hoping to catch a glimpse of the spotted cat, but again with no luck. We did see another lioness who was evidently from a different pride from the one we had seen before. Lions, like all cats, are extremely territorial and Russ informed us that we had gone beyond the territory of the previous pride.

We stopped by a Baobab tree, with its massive trunk and dome-shaped branches. Russ managed to get one of its fruits down by throwing a stone, and we sampled it. When opened, the fruit looked as though it was full of bits of chalk. Russ offered us one to try – it had a bittersweet taste and inside was a stone, which is apparently used as a substitute for coffee. Apparently elephants love them!

We returned to the camp for brunch, this time accompanied by warthogs wandering around the camp. We then relaxed in the warm sunshine for an hour or so. Johan was there again – he had the thickest Afrikaans accent I’ve ever heard – and we chatted for a while as Russ took a siesta.

We spent the afternoon slowly making our way back to the park entrance and civilisation. We returned to see if we could have a last look at the lions, but they were nowhere to be seen. Across the river there was a herd of around seventy elephants and behind them were giraffes and antelope – red lechwe and impala. Suddenly, the animals started to move, with the accompaniment of various elephants’ trumpets. There was evidently a predator of some kind out of our sight in the undergrowth. Within a few minutes, an area that had been filled with wildlife was completely empty and the elephants rapidly made their way across the river – a stunning sight.

Just before reaching the park entrance, we passed a large herd of elephants as well as two female members of yet another pride of lions. Being close to the entrance, the area was swarming with vehicles so we didn’t stay long. Soon we were on the metalled road and heading back to the Kazangula border crossing. On the drive back to Victoria Falls, we saw more elephants, including one walking nonchalantly along the middle of the road.

We decided to stay the night in Russell’s newly built lodge. He was very keen to know how we had got on and was very pleased that we had seen lions. He suggested that we eat at a restaurant called the "Boma" and he arranged a taxi to take us there and bring us back.

The Boma was a huge thatched place offering traditional African fare – food, drink and entertainment – to tourists. There was a "one price, eat as much as you like" menu and it consisted of rather unusual ingredients, to say the least. My starter consisted of thin slices of buffalo with a salad accompanied by a small tot of the local brew, which was like "shake-shake" we get in Zambia, a rather sickly, opaque liquid made of fermented grain. We were then instructed to go and ask for anything we wanted from the grill. I had warthog and eland steaks together with ostrich kebabs and mopane worms (yes, worms!) All was delicious and was accompanied by a performance of traditional singing and dancing. It was a bit kitsch, but enjoyable nonetheless. As we ate, a woman came round and issued us with certificates for eating mopane worms and a man wearing the most peculiar garments made of various animal skins told us that after our meal we should visit Bingi-Bingi, the witch-doctor, to have our fortunes told.

Ruth and I entered Bingi-Bingi’s little hut and were confronted with the witch-doctor, clad as strangely as his assistant had been. After a most bizarre series of grunt and clicks, Bingi-Bingi threw his collection of bones and stones in front of us and began with Ruth who was told she was going to have a long life and have "one boy, one girl, natural birth – no operation". I was told that I would have a similarly long life and travel safely. It was very difficult to keep a straight face and we both burst out laughing when we came out. The taxi soon came to take us back to our accommodation and it did not take us long to fall asleep after the day’s activities.

Friday 28 May – Back to Zambia

Lisa and I decided to take a trip into town – I had to buy a T-shirt with a picture lion on it since we had seen lions. We wandered around, with the constant sound of the Falls accompanying us despite being around 2km away. On our return, we spent a lazy hour or so by the pool while Russell phoned Moyra at Nyala Lodge to arrange for her to pick us up at the border. We were taken in one of his pick-ups to the border, where Moyra was indeed waiting with her Range Rover.

Before getting to the lodge, we stopped off so that Lisa could barter some old clothes she had brought at the curio market just by the Falls on the Zambian side. Ruth and I took the opportunity to have one last look at the stunning spectacle of the Mosi-Oa-Tunya before returning to Nyala.

That evening, we investigated Mat and Moyra’s satellite TV and found the BBC Prime channel with such fine examples of British culture as "Style Challenge", "Ready, Steady, Cook" and "EastEnders". We retired early, having booked earlier onto the 7am bus to Kitwe.

Saturday 29 May – Homeward Bound

This time, we were fortunate that there was a luxury bus that went all the way to Kitwe from Livingstone. We arrived and took our places to the accompaniment of Congolese Rumba on the coach’s stereo. As we set off, the radio news was turned on and we heard about the scandal of a man who had had an adulterous relationship with a 14 year old married woman. This was followed by adverts with stunningly original catch phrases such as "Toyota Zambia, Toyota Zambia, we are Toyota in Zambia". We must have heard the same Rumba tape a dozen times on the journey. It was interrupted by a selection of country songs, all with a religious flavour, and the video was put on for about 15 minutes to show part of a kick-boxing film. It was with more than a little relief that we pulled into the bus station at Kitwe at 7pm.