Hints, tips on collecting

Hints, Tips on Collecting
Here's where I share my tips on how I go about collecting coins. First, let's start with the coin you will elongate.

Tip #1 - Select the coins you will elongate

PENNIES
I personally prefer to use pre-1982 pennies. That's because before 1982, the U.S. minted coins that were about 97% copper and 3% zinc. Beginning in 1982, the proportion of each metal was reversed because the value of the copper in a penny was becoming more valuable than a penny. Roughly half of all 1982 pennies have predominantly copper and the other half have predominantly more zinc.

By appearances it is hard to tell which is which (if you are really observant you will note that the lettering size varies too. And if you are observant you might like to use a magnifying glass to see the names of thirteen original states above the columns on the back of a U.S. five dollar bill) but you can supposedly hear a different ring to the different coins when dropped.

MINERALS

Copper and zinc are two of 24 essential minerals your body needs. Copper helps boost your immune system. Too little of it can lead to elevated cholesterol levels. Zinc helps your taste. Taste buds, that is.

Don't go eating pennies for minerals though!

Why should you care? Well, what usually happens when you elongate a copper-clad predominantly zinc penny is that the elongation process will reveal the zinc below the copper (sometimes it is not that noticeable). In my opinion, the appearance of zinc in the design detracts from the appearance of the coin and the zinc doesn't polish very well (zinc tarnishes to a very dark grey appearance).

Also discard deeply damaged coins as the elongation process may not smooth out deep gouges.

Other notes. Pre-1960 pennies have the wheat field on the other side of Abraham Lincoln whereas those after that year have the Lincoln Memorial. And during World War II, the U.S. minted steel pennies due to the copper shortage.

NICKELS
I have no preference but if you find a buffalo on the other side of Thomas Jefferson on the coin, you might not want to elongate it as the value of a buffalo nickel is probably worth more than a current nickel.

QUARTERS
Beginning in 1965, the U.S. minted silver-clad copper quarters. You can see the copper ridge if you look at the edge of a 1965 or later quarter. It is very rare indeed to find a 1964 or older coin which are silver without copper and definitely worth more than a quarter. The elongation process doesn't smear within the design (just the edge). I have heard that pre-1982 quarters press better (softer?).

Tip #2 - Polish ONE side of your coin BEFORE elongating it

I recommend you polish your pennies before elongating them. The surface area is smaller and the design after elongation can be detailed so that it is hard to polish in the minute areas. You might want to leave Abraham Lincoln (the more recognizable side of a penny) tarnished and polish the other side. The reason for this is to show your friends that the elongated coin was once a penny as there will be an easily recognizable stretched out image of Mr. Lincoln.

Note that on occasion the Lincoln Memorial design may not get flattened out in the elongation process depending on the depth of the impressing design. In general, if you insert the penny so that the "face" side is to your right, that is the side that will be pressed with the design on multi-design machines. It is generally the opposite for machines that will only press one design.

I've tried several polishes and have made comments below. All of them direct you to apply the polish, let dry, rub to remove tarnish and then polish with a clean cloth to a high luster.

David Tomita's Method to Remove Tarnish

WHAT YOU WILL NEED

Tarnish remover
Old cotton towels and/or athletic socks for removing tarnish

Whichever polish you select (a home experiment described later), I recommend laying an old towel down. Fold it if necessary to give you some thickness. Apply the polish to both sides of the coin. Lay the coin down on the towel and then use an old cotton sock (like an athletic sock) to rub the coin and remove the tarnish. I put my hand inside and old sock and rotate the sock to clean section whenever my tarnish blackens the area of cloth under my finger. Keep rubbing until there is not tarnish being removed. When done, the copper will shine and almost look white.

TARNISH REMOVERS

All the ones I've tried (elbow grease required) do a decent job of removing the tarnish. The more expensive ones seem to have some wax in them to inhibit the tarnish from returning (basically a coating of wax to prevent air from reacting (oxidizing) with the copper). Most have petroleum distillates and smell. I prefer the thicker ones so I can glop some on the towel.

I simply went to a store and bought a bunch of tarnish removers and report my findings below. I didn't try all the ones listed but I noted their costs. Some are multipurpose polishes but since we are only concerned with copper, nickel and silver that is what I indicate under usage. You should follow the manufacturer's directions. One bottle of anyone of these should last you for thousands of coins.

Manufacturer Usage Viscosity Anti-tarnish Prices I saw (7/14/97) Comments

Lido Lustre copper, silver thick yes ? Yellowish color. Easy to work with because of thickness.

Brasso copper, thin no $2.17

Silvo silver, nickel thin no $2.17

Goddard's Brass and Copper Polish copper liquidy yes $2.67

Goddard's Silver Polish silver liquidy yes $2.67

Tarni Shield by 3M copper thick yes $6.47

Tarn-X copper, silver watery no $4.24 Smelly. This is a dip tarnish remover. Great for shining up pennies with not that much tarnish.

Goddard's Long Shine cloth copper, silver cloth wipe no $3.27 Didn't try it.

Hagerty Silversmith silver liquid ? $5.99 Didn't try it.

Hagerty silver foam silver foam ? $6.27 Didn't try it.

Hagerty 100 copper, silver ? yes (R/22) $5.67 Didn't try it.

Goddard's Silver Dip silver liquid ? $2.87 Didn't try it.

Silver Lightning Tray silver, copper tray $11.87 Didn't try it.

Vinegar copper liquid n

Bill Nye , the Science Guy, has chemical reaction experiment (episode 24) at his website just for removing tarnish from pennies. Check it out!

I use empty Kodak 35mm film containers to hold a stack of quarters and another one to hold the coins I press.

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Hints, Tips on Collecting Here's where I share my tips on how I go about collecting coins. First, let's start with the coin you will elongate.
	Tip #1 - Select the coins you will elongate PENNIES I personally prefer to use pre-1982 pennies. That's because before 1982, the U.S. minted coins that were about 97% copper and 3% zinc. Beginning in 1982, the proportion of each metal was reversed because the value of the copper in a penny was becoming more valuable than a penny. Roughly half of all 1982 pennies have predominantly copper and the other half have predominantly more zinc. By appearances it is hard to tell which is which (if you are really observant you will note that the lettering size varies too. And if you are observant you might like to use a magnifying glass to see the names of thirteen original states above the columns on the back of a U.S. five dollar bill) but you can supposedly hear a different ring to the different coins when dropped.	MINERALS Copper and zinc are two of 24 essential minerals your body needs. Copper helps boost your immune system. Too little of it can lead to elevated cholesterol levels. Zinc helps your taste. Taste buds, that is. Don't go eating pennies for minerals though!
	Why should you care? Well, what usually happens when you elongate a copper-clad predominantly zinc penny is that the elongation process will reveal the zinc below the copper (sometimes it is not that noticeable). In my opinion, the appearance of zinc in the design detracts from the appearance of the coin and the zinc doesn't polish very well (zinc tarnishes to a very dark grey appearance). Also discard deeply damaged coins as the elongation process may not smooth out deep gouges. Other notes. Pre-1960 pennies have the wheat field on the other side of Abraham Lincoln whereas those after that year have the Lincoln Memorial. And during World War II, the U.S. minted steel pennies due to the copper shortage.
	NICKELS I have no preference but if you find a buffalo on the other side of Thomas Jefferson on the coin, you might not want to elongate it as the value of a buffalo nickel is probably worth more than a current nickel.
	QUARTERS Beginning in 1965, the U.S. minted silver-clad copper quarters. You can see the copper ridge if you look at the edge of a 1965 or later quarter. It is very rare indeed to find a 1964 or older coin which are silver without copper and definitely worth more than a quarter. The elongation process doesn't smear within the design (just the edge). I have heard that pre-1982 quarters press better (softer?).
	Tip #2 - Polish ONE side of your coin BEFORE elongating it I recommend you polish your pennies before elongating them. The surface area is smaller and the design after elongation can be detailed so that it is hard to polish in the minute areas. You might want to leave Abraham Lincoln (the more recognizable side of a penny) tarnished and polish the other side. The reason for this is to show your friends that the elongated coin was once a penny as there will be an easily recognizable stretched out image of Mr. Lincoln. Note that on occasion the Lincoln Memorial design may not get flattened out in the elongation process depending on the depth of the impressing design. In general, if you insert the penny so that the "face" side is to your right, that is the side that will be pressed with the design on multi-design machines. It is generally the opposite for machines that will only press one design. I've tried several polishes and have made comments below. All of them direct you to apply the polish, let dry, rub to remove tarnish and then polish with a clean cloth to a high luster.
	David Tomita's Method to Remove Tarnish WHAT YOU WILL NEED Tarnish remover Old cotton towels and/or athletic socks for removing tarnish Whichever polish you select (a home experiment described later), I recommend laying an old towel down. Fold it if necessary to give you some thickness. Apply the polish to both sides of the coin. Lay the coin down on the towel and then use an old cotton sock (like an athletic sock) to rub the coin and remove the tarnish. I put my hand inside and old sock and rotate the sock to clean section whenever my tarnish blackens the area of cloth under my finger. Keep rubbing until there is not tarnish being removed. When done, the copper will shine and almost look white.

Manufacturer	Usage	Viscosity	Anti-tarnish	Prices I saw (7/14/97)	Comments
Lido Lustre	copper, silver	thick	yes	?	Yellowish color. Easy to work with because of thickness.
Brasso	copper,	thin	no	$2.17
Silvo	silver, nickel	thin	no	$2.17
Goddard's Brass and Copper Polish	copper	liquidy	yes	$2.67
Goddard's Silver Polish	silver	liquidy	yes	$2.67
Tarni Shield by 3M	copper	thick	yes	$6.47
Tarn-X	copper, silver	watery	no	$4.24	Smelly. This is a dip tarnish remover. Great for shining up pennies with not that much tarnish.
Goddard's Long Shine cloth	copper, silver	cloth wipe	no	$3.27	Didn't try it.
Hagerty Silversmith	silver	liquid	?	$5.99	Didn't try it.
Hagerty silver foam	silver	foam	?	$6.27	Didn't try it.
Hagerty 100	copper, silver	?	yes (R/22)	$5.67	Didn't try it.
Goddard's Silver Dip	silver	liquid	?	$2.87	Didn't try it.
Silver Lightning Tray	silver, copper	tray		$11.87	Didn't try it.
Vinegar	copper	liquid	n