Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Evolution of a classic design

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Epitome of the Luxury Sports Watch
Variations on a classic theme

ver. 1a
by ThomasM
© 7-31-2001

Sign Guestbook

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was introduced at the Basel Fair in 1972. Its tremendous success would create an entirely new luxury sports watch category, one of the most popular watch categories 25 years later.

The original design, by Gerald Genta, is approaching its 30th anniversary as an Audemars Piguet model line, and AP has very exciting new design updates in store to celebrate this landmark event. In the meantime, here is a retrospective of the basic evolutions of a classic design icon.

original RO
watch and photo - P Cracknell

Original early 70's Royal Oak - the one that started it all

Movement: cal 2121 - based on cal 2120 - "thinnest automatic movement in the world"
Features: Notice the AP logo below the center of the dial; the long thin solid (no luminous) baton hour markers, and clous de paris hobnail dial pattern. I have seen versions with both solid and luminous filled markers.

1992 Jubilee RO
AP stock photo

ref. 14 802ST
1992 Royal Oak 20th Anniversary Jubilee Limited Edition of 1000 pieces
Movement: cal 2121
Features: Long thin hour markers, clous de paris hobnail dial pattern; notice the wider Audemars Piguet logo that extends beyond the 11:00 and 1:00 baton markers.

RO Foundation
AP stock photo

ref. 15 100 ST

1998/1999 Time for the Trees Foundation Commemorative Limited Edition of 450 pieces in ss
Movement: cal 2225
Features: Short broad hour markers, "Grande tapisserie" waffle iron dial pattern, arabics at 5 minute intervals

14790
AP stock photo

ref. 14 790

Movement: cal. 2225
Features: Short broad hour markers, "Grande tapisserie" waffle iron dial pattern, arabics at 5 minute intervals

15 000
AP stock photo

ref. 15 000

Movement: cal. 2140
Features: Short broad hour markers, "Grande tapisserie" waffle iron dial pattern, arabics at 5 minute intervals

15 202
AP stock photo

ref. 15 202 - "Jumbo" re-edition

Movement: cal 2121
Features: Short broad hour markers, "Grande tapisserie" waffle iron dial pattern, arabics at 5 minute intervals, no second hand

14790TR
Yvan Duton

ref. 14 790TR

Movement: cal. 2125
Features: Special version of the ref. 14-790, circa 1990, the case is tantalum and rose gold. The dial is a slate grey, and is the only version with minute tracks rather than discrete stick markers. Also, this variant has the larger full company name logo that extends beyond the 11:00 and 1:00 markers. Note the presence of the center sweep second hand.

15 000
AP stock photo

ref.

Movement: cal 2140 (?)
Features: This is a rare variant released in 1978, with full bar markers all around, double bars at 12:00 and 6:00, without the AP logo anywhere on the dial. I believe this is an early version of the ref. 15 000, with center sweep seconds and using the cal. 2140.

15 002
AP stock photo

ref. 15 002

Movement: cal 2121
Features: intermediate re-release of the Royal Oak with the original cal 2121 movement, in a 39mm case. The dial is a throwback to the original dial designs, with clous de paris hobnail finish, longer baton markers and wider Audemars Piguet logo that extends beyond the 11:00 and 1:00 markers.

Tantalum rose gold c. 1985
AP stock photo

ref.

Movement: cal. 2121
Features: Early tantalum and rose gold cased Royal Oak, circa 1985. Notice the lack of a center sweep second hand. The dial is a slate grey, and is the only version with minute tracks rather than discrete stick markers. Also, this variant has the larger full company name logo that extends beyond the 11:00 and 1:00 markers.

ThomasM


Photo credits:

AP stock photos
P Cracknell
Misc sources - private owners and sellers
The Purist personal collection of watches and original product literature


We welcome comments, suggestions, and corrections.

Email us | Sign Guestbook | Audemars Piguet discussion board | ThePuristS.com Home Page


Copyright July 2001 - ThePurist178.com - all rights reserved

This photo-essay and retrospective was prepared from publicly available sources. It is written for non-commercial reference and entertainment purposes only, and no claims are made for historical accuracy, although considerable efforts have been made to ensure factual correctness. All trademarks, trade names, service marks, logos, and copyrights remain the possession of their respective registered owners.