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After experiencing much frustration with repairs to my front brake calipers, I decided to give the Volvo brake caliper conversion a try. Much to my surprise, it went like dream! The conversion delivers improved braking action at a fraction of the cost of new OEM brakes.

I read several conversion stories at XKE-Lovers forum, each of which used a different approach to a couple of required modifications. Due to the Volvo's caliper having two separate circuits (for enhanced safety/reliability?), it's necessary to either use two brake lines, or join the circuits internal to the caliper. Since I hate making brake lines, AND prefer a neater appearance, I chose to drill between the two cylinders.

Disassemble the calipers (I recommend you work on one at a time) and remove all rubber items. Anyone attempting this should know enough to use a wooden or plastic impliment to avoid damaging the rubbers. If not, then you probably shouldn't be attempting this modification.

I found that there was already a hole in one side of the caliper (it led to the fluid bleed port) so it was only necessary to drill one side. Start the hole on the side of the wall vice the bottom. It is possible to drill through the caliper if one is not careful. I made a small cutout with a small carbide bit in a die grinder to start the hole.

It is now necessary to grind away some material to allow it to fit over the rotor. The picture indicates how much I removed. I went almost to the large bolt hole (three to four mm). I used a grinding disk in my die grinder.

This image indicates the clearance obtained. It's about 2mm. I did not want to cut down the brake rotors ( as other persons have when implementing this mod) as I felt that I would need every bit of metal for heat dissipation. I also didn't want to remove the hubs and disassemble the rotor.

Plug the upper hole with an appropriate plug (or bolt) and make a line for the lower hole. The Volvo's caliper is METRIC. You'll have to make a line with the proper fittings at each end. Measure carefully! The gentle 'S' curve can be bent over a wooden stick. Use steel lines for better safety (I don't believe you can buy copper lines anymore anyway). The two bleed screws on the rear of each side can be tightened up as you'll use only the upper screw to bleed.

I used rebuilt calipers form my local UAP/NAPA dealer. They are located all across Canada and are known in the USA under the NAPA banner. Part numbers are for the parts I obtained in Canada. THEY MAY BE DIFFERENT IN THE USA. In any case, ask for the following:

1) Left and right brake calipers for any S200 series car from 1975 to 1987 (non-vented): 242-6423 and 242-6422.

2) Brake pads: AE-784

3) Caliper pins: 82452

The brake shield was bent out at each upper and lower corner to clear the larger Volvo caliper. I did not modify the mounting tabs that are normally held by the caliper mounting bolts. Being in something of a hurry to get the car on the road (summer was quickly waning) I simply left the shield unsecured at the rear. It is stiff enough that it doesn't move much. I intend to make a new set of shields this winter.

The brake pad retention pins WILL contact the rotor. I cut them down on a lathe to obtain 1mm of clearance. It takes a gentle 'persuasion' with a small ball-peen to get them into their holes. Once in place they have sufficient clearance.

Properly installed, each caliper will have a bleed screw near the TOP of the caliper. I received two right hand calipers (one box was miss-labeled) and didn't catch on untill I went to install them. This installation cost me $260 Canadian (summer 2004) and is about 1/5th the price of new E-Type calipers.