Engine
Removal Page 2
#12
Once you've disconnected everything, raise the engine untill you see that you've
got the weight off it. At the rear stabilizer it'll move off of the rubber stop.
Note the small gap between the nut and the large washer. The washer may stay
with the nut so check carefully. The front mounts WON'T do this so be carefull
you dont put too much strain on
them.
#13
remove the large bolt first. The bracket rests on the rubber mount and keeps
the engine from falling through. Once you've removed the bolts,
remove the three smaller bolts that secure the bracket to the engine. DANGER!
The engine is now held only by whatever support you've rigged
up underneath it. Use caution and common sense.
#14
This is my set-up at the rear of the engine. It rests on the flat part of the
bellhousing. The bricks on either side are there in case the jack collapses.
I remove bricks as it gets lower. I lower one end at a time by an inch. When
one end is going down, the other is resting on the bricks.
#15
Front set-up. I forgot to drain the block so as the engine tipped forward, coolant
ran out. (I'll pull a few more stupid moves as this thing progresses).
#16
The jack will run out of travel so I rested the pully on a set of bricks and
a 4X4 while I repositioned the jack and extended it. See the before and after
pic.
#17
Stupid trick #53. I forgot to disconnect reverse light wires and almost ripped
them out.
#18
Clearances are tight between the rear of the engine and the torsion bar brackets.
On the right hand side it goes between the starter housing and rear part of
the engine
block...it's almost like they designed it that way.
#19
Distributor to engine mount is also les
#21
It's finally too low for the scissors jack so I've switched to the hoist.
s than half an inch.
#20
Finally stuck that wood in there. It got hung up a few times.
#22
Engine is now on a piece of hard shelving on wooden rollers (two old handles
cut into lengths). The hydraulic jack is being used to raise each side a little
to allow me to put some more bricks under the tires since I needed a little
more room.
#23
TA-DAA!!! All done. Engine will get cleaned, a new clutch, transmission input
shaft oil seal, crankshaft oil seal, and have the flywheel resurfaced.
Other points: Go slow and check often.
Watch for the engine to descend smoothly. Having a few people help by watching,
will make things go MUCH faster. It took me around eight hours to do the disconnections
and maybe five to six hours to lower it to the ground. I had to roll the car
forward and back less than an inch a couple of times to allow clearance around
the torsion bar flanges.
