I've always wanted those nifty glass covers over the headlamps like the series 1 folks. Being a cheap bastard who didn't want to buy a new series 1 bonnet, I made my own covers from Lexan. The following details their construction. I started the molds many years ago (before the net became popular) and didn't take pictures of their construction.

While restoring my E, I drilled out the rivets holding in the headlamp socket then re-installed the socket INSIDE of the bonnet. This worked just fine on my
series 1 1/2 and required no cutting of metal.

The molds where constructed by removing all headlight hardware from the socket
and stuffing in something to hold the basic shape. One was done with styrofoam blocks,
the other with layers of cardboard. I'd recommend cardboard since it accepts glue much
better.
Leave a good inch or so for 'filling'. I used plaster of paris and fiberglass tape
to build up the mold. The tape is the type used in gyproc (wallboard) work. It has an open
mesh and adhesive on one side. Build up layers of plaster and fiberglass working to smooth it into shape following the contours of the surrounding bodywork. I used medium grit sandpaper to smooth it when it was almost even with the bodywork. At this point I took it to an automotive bodyshop who applied several thick layers of a high build epoxy primer. I let this cure for several days then sanded it progressivly smoother until I hit 600 grit paper. A few heavy coats of non-abrasive wax finished the job.

To build the female half I re-installed the male half in the socket then smoothed two
layers of plastic foodwrap over the mold and surrounding bodywork. I taped a cardboard 'dam' an inch outside the socket. As with the male mold, the female half was built in the same manner until it was an inch and a half in thickness. Once removed, sand it smooth and apply the same epoxy treatment.
Other points: Use a few l-o-n-g woodscrews through the holes in the rear of the socket to
secure the male mold while under construction. Leave each layer to dry completely. While plaster of paris shrinks very little, it's best to wait a couple of days between layers (depending on the temperature).

With both molds ready, you can do some thermo-forming. If you're a plastic modeler and have done any vacu-forming, you're ahead of the game. I used 3/16 plexiglass for my covers. Pre-heat your oven to 275 degrees farenheit. Place something non-combustable on the middle rack to hold the plastic around the edges. I used a square pan about 2 inches deep. Place the plastic in the oven and watch it closely. When it sags in the middle (7 minutes?), turn it over. You did wear oven mitts right?! When it sags again, remove it and place it on the female mold. Place the male mold over it and press down...hard. Hold for ten minutes (no kidding). The plastic will hold the heat a long time and the mold acts as an insulator. I placed my female mold on a pillow on a chair then simply sat on it.

Once your cover has cooled, it must be cut from the surrounding plastic. This entails cutting away everything that doesn't fit in the socket. Cutting by hand with any type of saw is hopelessly slow since the blade heats up and melts the plastic which then welds itself to the blade. I used my table saw with a combination blade. It worked perfectly with only a bit of chipping. I removed the guard to allow better access to the uneven cover. Naturally I was VERY carefull around the blade.

I've formed both Lexan and generic plexiglass with good results. You'll have to make tests with your own oven to find the right temperature. I find that putting large pans on the top and bottom to shield the heat coils will help a great deal. Those who cook with gas probably have a more even heat.

For final trimming I used a large sanding disc with adhesive paper mounted in the table saw. Use the roughest grit you can find and go easy so as not to overheat the plastic and melt it. I hand file also works but is slow.

Jaguar home