Black Spot, Mildew, Rust
These three seem to be the most troubleseome.
I use Triforine and Rubigan mixed together. Triforine is found in Ortho
Funginex or Ortnenex. If you have a lot of rose bushes, it is best
to obtain these at farm stores or co-ops. Occasionally, I will use
baking soda at a rate of not more than one teaspoon per gallon of water.
Some varieties do not react very well to baking soda (lose their leaves,
but will come back). FungiGard" with Chlorothalonil may help also.
Pest Problems
I use Orthene. It mixes well
with Funginex or Rubigan. Orthene and Triforine are the ingredients
of Orthenex. I haven't had much success with the soaps. Once
again, if you have a lot of bushes, buy from farm or co-op stores.
The prices are about half in bulk. I have about 400 bushes so I mix
15 gallons of spray at a time. One gallon of Funginex will cost about
$80 and about the same for one quart of Rubigan. Orthene is about
$10 for one quart. That's a lot of moola but it lasts several years.
The most important thing you can do to prevent either rose disease or pest
infestation is to use dormant spray in the winter. You will be money ahead.
Spring thru fall, spray weekly or at least every two weeks if you use Rubigan.
Alternate what you spray. The plant will build a resistance to any
one fungicide.
Soil Problems
A good rule of thumb - if soil is sandy,
add mulch (barkdust, sawdust, peat moss). Remember to add nitrogen
with bark or saw dust. If soil is clay type, add a lot of sand and
peatmoss or wood products. Clay soil usually retains a lot of nutrients,
drainage is the problem. A raised bed is usually a good idea with
clay soil.
Pruning
One thing to remember about pruning
- the more you prune the more roses you wwill get. I know a lot of
folks who just break off the spent rose below the bloom. This will
not promote strong repeat blooms. You need to go down to the first
or second, outward facing 5th leaf. On wide stock in the heat of
the summer, a little Elmers Glue on the cut will help the plant retain
moisture.
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