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Andong Traditionally a center for the yangban (aristocrat) class, this town and surrounding area have retained much of the old culture. When the Andong Dam was built in 1976, the resulting lake would have destroyed many cultural relics. Luckily, most were relocated to the Andong Folk Village and Folk Museum, both located near the foot of the dam. Some of the houses have been converted to restaurants serving traditional food - definitely worth a stop. Dosan Seowon was one of the country's most famous Confucian institutes and is located north of Andong. West of the town you will find Hahoe Maeul Folk Village, a living folk village with over 100 traditional buildings. It also forms the heart of Hahoe Pyeolsingut Talnori, a combination of dance, masks, drama, satire and shaman rituals. The area holds a very popular Mask Dance Festival each autumn, which is not to be missed if you're in the area at the time. 111 mi/180 km southeast of Seoul. Buddhist Temples South Korea has literally thousands of picturesque and historic temples. It would be impossible for a casual visitor to see them all, but try to visit as many as possible. The vast majority of these temples were built in remote mountain areas, after the Joseon Dynasty proclaimed Confucianism the state religion and banished Buddhism from the cities in the 14th century. National parks have been established around many of the temples, offering hiking, Korean-style inns and mountain cuisine, which includes lots of wild vegetables. The wooden buildings of the temples themselves are usually painted with traditional, kaleidoscope-like designs called dancheong. One of the most interesting temples is Hyeonchungsa, about an hour south of Seoul, dedicated to Admiral Yi Sun-Shin, inventor of the first ironclad warships (called turtle boats). The Onyang Hot Springs resort is not far from the temple. Another easily accessible temple complex is Beopjusa, a two-hour drive south of Seoul in Songnisan National Park. This temple houses an 80-ft/25-m standing Buddha. Other interesting temple complexes are Haeinsa, Bulguksa, Jikjisa, Tongdosa (near Busan), Hwaomsa (near Namwon) and Songgwangsa (near Gwangju). Busan An industrial port of 3,663,000, Busan is South Korea's largest port and second-largest metropolis. It is not in itself worth a visit, in our opinion, but if you do happen to find yourself there, take in the view from Busan Tower, in Yongdusan Park, and visit the Yi Sun-shin statue, the Jagalchi fish market (best seen 6-7 am), the U.N. Cemetery (where fallen U.N. soldiers from the Korean War are buried) and the Municipal Museum. Additional sights include the old harbor, the botanical gardens and Taejongdae Park. Nearby are hot springs, beach resorts: Our favorite is in the town of Haeundae, 11 mi/18 km northeast, which has casinos and a spa. Also in the area are Geumgang Park (beautiful cherry blossoms in the spring) and Beomeosa, a 7th-century temple area. Busan is also a departure point for Jeju Island. 210 mi/340 km southeast of Seoul. Buyeo On the Baengma River in the Honam region, Buyeo is home to the impressive Buyeo National Museum. The town's main claim to fame is that it was the last capital of the Baekje kingdom. Area sights include the Unjin Miruk Buddha (75 ft/23 m high) at Gwanchoksa, King Muryeong's Tomb (glazed tiles) and Baekhwajeong Pavilion on the Nakhwaam cliff of Pusosan. The pavilion commemorates the suicide in AD 660 of 3,000 court ladies of the Baekje kingdom - they jumped into the river rather than be captured. Buyeo is 95 mi/150 km south of Seoul. Daegu Daegu, the nation's third-largest city (pop. 2,517,000) is a very polluted industrial center. It doesn't really merit a visit, but if you find yourself there, allow half a day to shop and to visit Dalseong Park and Suseong Lake. About 14 mi/22 km north is the 5th-century Donghwasa Temple, which has an impressive gate. Many local residents climb Gatbawi Peak in Palgongsan Provincial Park to pray to the famous stone Buddha. 150 mi/240 km southeast of Seoul. Daejeon Daejeon (pop. 1,345,000) hosted the 1993 World Expo and still maintains an interesting science park. West of town is Gyeryongsan Mountain, which has hiking trails, beautiful fall foliage and the Gapsa and Donghaksa Temples nestled in the hills. Southeast of town is Jikjisa Temple and its 1,000 statues of Buddha as a baby (the entire temple complex, in a gorgeous setting in the mountains, is wondrous). The Yuseong Hot Springs are also worth a visit. About 50 mi/80 km northeast of Daejeon is Songnisan National Park, containing Beobjusa Temple, home to Korea's tallest Buddha statue (109 ft/33 m high). Also not far from Daejeon is the Twin Lions Stone Lantern, the Stone Lotus water container and other national treasures, all set in a beautiful, wooded mountain setting. The prettiest times to visit the park are spring and fall. Allow two days for Daejeon. 95 mi/150 km south of Seoul. Eastern Coast A 30-minute flight east of Seoul takes visitors to the cities of Gangneung, Samcheok and Sokcho. Any one of the three cities could be used as a base to visit the excellent beaches in the area or to go mountain climbing or skiing, depending on the season. Spectacular Seoraksan and Odaesan National Parks easily warrant several days for exploring their many hiking trails. All along the coast are ancient pavilions that were once used for wine sipping and moon viewing by ancient scholars. We suggest at least a three-night stay on the eastern coast. Gyeongju If your schedule permits stopping at only one city other than Seoul, that city should be Gyeongju (pop. 292,000). It was the capital for the Silla Kingdom (57 BC-AD 935) and later for the Goryeo Dynasty. It has a high concentration of temples, statuary and burial mounds, as well as an excellent historical museum. One of the highlights of your visit to Gyeongju will be a walk through Tombs Park, where you'll stroll among 20 burial mounds, some several stories high. (Oddly enough, the park was only dedicated in the 1970s: Before that, the area was residential, with people living among these royal tombs.) Just a few have been excavated, and the interior of only one is open to the public. Inside, an exhibit re-creates what it looked like when the mound was first explored, and some of the original contents are on display. Most of the finds, however, are exhibited in the Gyeongju National Museum (not to be confused with Seoul's National Museum), along with other artifacts from Gyeongju's golden age. Bulguksa Temple, which is outside of town, is one of the most beautiful in the country: It's spread out in a large park and has wonderful architecture, pagodas and statuary. There are other temples and mounds near Gyeongju (some have larger-than-life stone soldiers and bureaucrats to guard and guide the departed kings in the afterlife) as well as the Seogbinggo Icehouse (where ice was kept long before refrigeration), a very early astronomical observatory and other relics. Also within easy driving distance are the Seokguram Grotto (exquisite stone statues and friezes - best seen at sunrise), the Poseokjeong Pavilion and beautiful Bomun Lake. In the mountains surrounding the city are thousands of Buddhist shrines, temples, inscriptions and pagodas (the roads to some are impassable without a four-wheel-drive vehicle). Weeks could be spent driving around, but two or three days will give most travelers a taste of the area. One other nearby attraction merits mention, though it is difficult to get to: the underwater tomb of King Munmu (AD 661-681). The tomb is submerged in shallow water in the middle of a little island about 300 ft/90 m offshore. Legends say that King Munmu wanted to return as a dragon to protect his people from invasion. Visitors must bargain with a boat owner to get to the tomb. If time permits, visit the village of Yangdong, just south of Pohang. Ignored by most tourists, the village seems to have been bypassed by the 20th century altogether. Gyeongju is 165 mi/265 km southeast of Seoul. Haeinsa In the midst of the eerie Gayasan National Park is Korea's best-known temple, Haeinsa. A 9th-century Buddhist temple, it covers 4 sq mi/10 sq km and has more than 81,000 wooden printing blocks (Tripitaka Koreana) used to print Buddhist scriptures. Unfortunately, these buildings are normally locked, so it's usually only possible to see the blocks through slatted windows. Nearby are a dozen hermitages and excellent hiking trails. Haeinsa is usually seen as a half-day visit from Daegu. 175 mi/280 km southeast of Seoul. Hallyeo Waterway National Park Set along the shores of the southeastern coast, Hallyeo Waterway National Park is made up of picturesque coastlines, 368 islands, hundreds of temples and assorted historical relics. This beautiful national sea park has caves, rock formations and impressive mountain scenery. The seaport village of Chungmu, the main resort town, is 90 minutes by hydrofoil from Busan, but if time permits, take a slower, more leisurely boat ride. From Chungmu, transportation is available to several islands. Opportunities for deep-sea fishing, temple viewing and relaxation abound along the entire southern coast of Korea. This region is geared for tourists and offers excellent facilities. We suggest driving south along the coast for a few days after visiting the park to see the many fishing villages and oyster farms. Hallyeo Waterway National Park stretches 95 mi/150 km from Geoje Island to Yeosu. Namwon Besides being a popular base for hikers heading to nearby Jiri-san National Park, Namwon's is the setting for the story of Chunhyang Jeon, one of Korea's most famous love stories. The park containing Gwanghallu Pavilion also contains a museum dedicated to the couple, the house where Chunhyang lived and several other places paramount to the story. Visitors can get photographed in period costumes. The city holds an annual Chunhyang Festival each spring. 180 mi/290 km south of Seoul. Onyang This hot-spring resort area merits at least a one-day visit to see the Hyeonchungsa Shrine, the 600-year-old Onyang Hot Springs, the Sudeoksa Temple (stone Buddha figure) and the Onyang Folk Museum. A 47-ft-/14-m-high sitting Buddha is found near Cheonan, east of Onyang. 45 mi/70 km south of Seoul. Seoraksan National Park This beautiful park has deep mountain gorges, sparkling streams, granite pinnacles, remote temples and lots of hiking trails. It's a great place to enjoy mountain scenery and relax, especially in the autumn. At least two days could be spent there, visiting the Sinheung Temple, Ulsanbawi and Heundeulbawi Rocks, Yukdam and Biryong Waterfalls, Gwongeumseong Fortress (take the Gwongeumseong cable car), Geumganggul Cave and the Biseondae Plateau (from which, it's claimed, an angel ascended to heaven). While the scenery is splendid throughout the park, the 3,610-ft-/1,100-m-high Seoraksan is surely the country's most beautiful summit, especially if you are fortunate enough to experience the "sea of clouds" phenomenon. 75 mi/120 km northeast of Seoul. Seoul Much of Seoul bears the distinct stamp of the 21st century - 12-lane freeways carry a constant stream of traffic between steel-and-glass skyscrapers. But if you look more closely, you'll find ancient temples miraculously spared destruction in the Korean War, as well as painstakingly restored historic palaces whose designs date back centuries. Great effort has gone into preserving Korean history and culture despite what seems like a headlong rush into the future. Mere steps away from the bustle of commerce, you can find yourself in the serenity of a traditional garden or a market overflowing with ginseng, jade and dried squid. Although it's located in the northwest corner of the country, Seoul is the center of South Korea, the hub of the nation's government, economy, education and culture. Thus it's where everyone wants to be, and the city's population has grown from less than 1 million shortly before World War II to nearly 10 million today. That growth has helped propel Seoul into a major player in the world economy, but such rapid expansion hasn't come without a price. Transportation, housing, utility and recreation resources have been severely strained. Nevertheless, Seoul offers plenty for the traveler, including luxurious modern accommodations, excellent public transportation and an array of colorful cultural experiences. Skiing Skiing has become extremely popular in Korea, and the country now boasts 12 major ski-resort areas, many within a three-hour radius of Seoul. The ski season lasts December-March, and most resorts offer a variety of runs and facilities. The largest are Alps Resort, near Seoraksan National Park; Cheonmasan Family Ski Resort, northeast of Seoul; Yongpyeong Resort (Dragon Valley), near the eastern coast; Yangji Resort, near Suwon's Korean Folk Village; and Bears Town Resort, northeast of Seoul. Ski-equipment rental and lodging are available at all resorts. Suwon Recently spiffed up for the 2002 World Cup soccer games, Suwon has always been a good side trip from Seoul. Its restored 18th-century fortress is impressive: Allow several hours to look at its gates, walls, pavilions and small lakes. It's possible to walk around almost all of the wall, but the best place to enter is at South Gate. The Korean Folk Village, one of the country's top tourist attractions, has 250 reconstructed buildings, each representing a different Korean lifestyle from rural peasant to aristocratic. Be sure to taste the city's famous (and delicious) galbi pork ribs. 20 mi/32 km south of Seoul. Western Coast The western and southwestern coast, along the Yellow Sea, is characterized by mountains, pristine forests, temples and the spectacular narrow valleys of Naejangsan National Park. The park, about a four-hour drive south of Seoul, offers magnificent scenery, hiking trails and an opportunity to relax and view great fall colors. A little farther north is the town of Buyeo. For those interested in bamboo baskets, plan a few hours in Damyang, 20 mi/32 km northeast of Gongju. Other sights in the area include Daecheon Beach, Sudeoksa Temple, Seosan Marine National Park and Hongdo Island. |