HISTORICAL SKETCH OF VICTORIA
Atlas Page 28
By James Smith
PASSING over Captain Sturts exploration of the Murray, which belongs to the history of geographical discovery in Australia generally, we come to the first permanent settlement in Victoria by a little colony of Englishmen, who had previously tested and been disappointed with the capabilities of Western Australia and Van Diemens Land. These were the brothers Henty Edward, Stephen, Frank and John two of whom, Edward and Stephen, landed in Portland Bay with farm servants, live stock, agricultural implements and stores, on the 19th of November, 1834, and became, by means of a flock of merino sheep they had brought with them from England, the pioneers of the great pastoral industry of the colony, just as, at a later period, they, were foremost in commercial enterprise.
The head of the family, Mr. Thomas
Henty, who had been a banker and landed proprietor in Sussex, came out to join his sons at
Launceston, in Van Diemens Land, after they had relinquished their project of
settling in Western Australia, and he memorialised the Secretary of State for the Colonies
for permission to purchase two thousand five hundred acres of land, at five shillings an
acre, between the parallels of 135° and 145° of east longitude, on the south coast of
Victoria; offering at the same time to relinquish his title to eighty thousand acres of
land on the Swan River. But the application was refused; and we learn from a subsequent
memorial to the Governor of New South Wales, in 1840, that the Hentys had erected two
considerable houses at Portland Bay, one of them containing twelve rooms, and two other
substantial habitations at Merino Downs; and had expended altogether between eight and ten
thousand pounds in the construction of barns, stores, stabling, workshops, a dairy, and
other permanent improvements.
By a remarkable coincidence the scene of this settlement was the precise
point of the coast struck by Major Mitchell, afterwards Sir Thomas, on his memorable
journey overland from the Murray to the sea. That intrepid explorer, after having spent
three months in examining the river systems of what are now known as the Riverina and the
Darling, districts, turned southward on the 20th of June, 1835, at the junction of the
Loddon with the Murray. Ascending the banks of the former for three days, he then lost it,
and, bending his course to the westward, he crossed the Avoca and the Wimmera, sighted the
Grampians, and climbed to the summit of Mount William, overlooking thence a lovely
panorama, combining such elements of grandeur, beauty, and extent, such an interchange of
solemn forests and far-stretching pastures, of undulating downs and green valleys, of
gleaming lakes and refreshing watercourses, as more than confirmed all the favourable
impressions he had previously received from the country he had passed through, and
justified him, as he conceived, in denominating this part of the continent Australia
Felix. Looking southward, he saw few obstructions to the prosecution of his journey,
and so he set his face in the direction of the sea. Passing Mount Arapiles, Mitchell
reached a river bearing the native name of Nargula, on the 31st Of July, and called it
Glenelg, after the Secretary of State for the Colonies. He subsequently discovered the beautiful valley of the Wannon,
lying to the eastward of the Glenelg and on the 20th of August Mitchell and his party came
in sight of the sea, and found to their immense astonishment a "considerable farming
establishment belonging to the Messrs. Henty," from whom the travellers met with a
hospitable reception. We need not follow the energetic explorer on his homeward way.
Enough to say that he varied his route, crossing a gap in the Australian Pyrenees, and,
skirting the Great Dividing Range, he ascended Mount Macedon, in order that he might
obtain a view of Port Phillip, passed over the site of the present town of Castlemaine,
and reached the River Murray on the 17th of October.
Speaking of the view from the summit of the mountain upon which he bestowed the name it bears, Major Mitchell says, "I could trace no signs of life about this harbour (i.e., Port Phillip). No stockyards, cattle, nor even smoke, although at the highest northern point of the bay I saw a mass of white objects, which might have been either tents or vessels." Yet, fifteen months before, a settlement had been already effected near the shores of the bay, and the foundations had been laid of the future city of Melbourne.
THE ARRIVAL OF BATMAN.
As early as the month of January, 1827, Messrs. J. T. Gellibrand and
John Batman, of Launceston, Van Diemens Land, solicited a grant of land at Western
Port, with a view to establishing a pastoral settlement there but the application was
curtly refused by Governor Darling, to whom it had been addressed. The project was allowed
to slumber until the year 1835, when a vessel was chartered at Launceston, and this same
John Batman, accompanied by seven aborigines from Sydney, proceeded to Port Phillip, and
landed there on the 26th of May. Falling in with some natives, Batman succeeded in
disarming their fears and conciliating their confidence by numerous presents and
reiterated assurances of his pacific intentions; the blacks he had brought with him acting
as interpreters. He then asked to be conveyed to the chiefs of the tribe, with whom he
spent four-and-twenty hours negotiating for the purchase of a tract of their country in
order to stock it with sheep and cattle.
The proposition is alleged to have been agreeably received and cheerfully acquiesced in;
the boundaries of the laid to be purchased were defined; and, on the day following, Batman
and the chiefs proceeded to mark the trees at each angle of the estate of half a million
acres which was to be conveyed to the purchaser in consideration of twenty pairs of
blankets, thirty tomahawks, one hundred knives, fifty pairs of scissors, thirty
looking-glasses, two hundred handkerchiefs, one hundred pounds of flour, and six shirts,
to be paid down at once; and an annual tribute of one hundred pairs of blankets, one
hundred knives, one hundred tomahawks, fifty suits of clothing, fifty looking-glasses,
fifty pairs of scissors, and five tons of flour. A contract of sale was drawn up in due
form on the 6th of June, 1835 the original document is in the Melbourne Public
Library and possession was given of this magnificent principality by the chiefs
delivering to Batman a sod of earth, after which he returned to Launceston, leaving three
white men and five of the Sydney natives to lay out a garden and commence the erection of
a house "near the harbour." A second conveyance had been executed, covering one
hundred thousand acres of land belonging to a tribe named Iramoo and Geelong, professing
the lords of an extensive domain encircling Corio Bay. Had these ambitious and
overreaching transactions been carried through, they would have conferred upon Batman and
his fourteen associates all of them, with one exception, residents in Launceston
boundless affluence; for the value of the territory thus acquired can only be
estimated at the present time by scores of millions sterling. This vast estate was to be
divided into seventeen equal parts two of which were to be awarded to Batman; and the
government of the new settlement was to be entrusted to Messrs. Charles Swanston, James
Simpson, and Joseph Tice Gellibrand, three of the partners in the enterprise, subject to
code of rules prepared for that purpose. Batman forwarded a detailed statement of his
proceedings to Lieutenant-Governor Arthur, in Van Diemens Land, who transmitted a
copy of it, together with a draft of the conveyance, to the Secretary of State for the
Colonies. That gentleman, however, declined to confirm the grant, but promised that the
serious consideration of the Home Government should be given to the subject of forming a
settlement in the vicinity of Port Phillip. Meanwhile, Mr. J. H. Wedge, one of
Batmans partners in the undertaking, and formerly an officer in the Survey
Department, had made an examination of the country surrounding Port Phillip, and had
extended his investigations to a distance of from twenty-five to forty miles inland,
laying down the various eminences, as well as the rivers and creeks, upon a chart.
THE STORY OF BUCKLEY.
IN spite of the friendly relations which Batman believed he had
established with the natives, some of them had concerted an attack upon the little party
he had left behind him, and it was only frustrated by the interposition of a white man who
had lived among them for a period of thirty-two years. This was William Buckley, the
narrative of whose career constitutes one of the most romantic episodes in the early
history of Victoria. He was one of the convicts who had been landed from the
"Calcutta" at Sorrento in 1801, and made his escape into the bush with two other
men under sentence, both of whom are believed to have perished. He was a man of commanding
stature six feet five inches in height without his shoes and to this
circumstance probably, coupled with the belief that he was muurnong guurk that is to
say, a chieftain who had been killed in battle and had been resuscitated a white man
he owed his escape from death. He had been wandering about for a whole year,
however, before he fell in with the natives; and the lonely cavern in which he is reported
to have taken refuge at night is still pointed out as Buckleys Cave. One of the
blacks detected some immense foot-prints in a sand hummock near the outfall of the River
Barwon, and following them up, found the white stranger sunning himself upon the beach
after a bath in the sea. An alarm was given, and Buckley presently found himself
surrounded by the whole of the tribe. "Yon kondak Baarwon?" asked one of
the party. It was the name of a departed chief. The white man nodded and
grunted assent. Other questions were put to him on the subject of his reincarnation, all
of which he fortunately replied to in the affirmative, and he was forthwith admitted a
member of the tribe, gradually learning their language and forgetting his own. They gave
him a wife, but she preferred a lover of her own complexion, and she and her paramour were
put to death in consequence. A second consort was bestowed upon him, bearing the name of
Purraninurnin Tallarwurnin, but he had no offspring by either wife. It was she, in her
widowhood, who furnished the foregoing particulars of his discovery and adoption. She
added that the children of the tribe always regarded him with awe as a mooroop, or spirit
of the departed; and that when vessels touched at the coast for wood and water Buckley
avoided making himself known to them. When a wreck occurred, the white stranger and the
other members of the tribe would acquire what salvage they could in the shape of blankets,
axes, and useful implements, in the employment of which, Buckley taught them to become
almost as expert as himself. So, without seeing the face or hearing the voice of a
civilised being for upwards of thirty years, the bearded giant gradually lapsed into
barbarism, conforming in all things to the habits of his associates; sharing in their
pastimes; partaking of their food, and refraining only from the practice of cannibalism.
When he learned that white men had landed in Port Phillip he also discovered that some of
the natives, who had been threatened with punishment for stealing an axe, had resolved on
spearing the Europeans. Blood is thicker than water, and Buckley determined to prevent the
attack and to obtain an interview with the strangers. He intimidated the blacks by
representing to them the overpowering numbers of the whites, and he made a two days
journey for the purpose of discovering who the newcomers were. His majestic figure,
bronzed by exposure to the weather, was rendered more imposing by his flowing hair, the
great sweep of his beard, the growth of three-and-thirty years; by the kangaroo-skin which
enveloped his sinewy limbs, and by the native weapons which he carried. He sat himself
down in grim silence, and affected to take no notice of the white men, who were puzzled
alike by his features and his demeanour. But a closer scrutiny of the former left no doubt
upon their minds that he was a European. To the questions which were addressed to him he
could make no answer. All recollection of his mother tongue seemed to have faded out of
his mind; nor was it until ten days afterwards that the secret cells of his memory began
to be gradually unlocked, and the language of his childhood and of his early life slowly
came back to him. He had escaped from the short-lived settlement at Sorrento on the 27th
of December, 1803, and on the 28th of August, 1835, he experienced the gratification of
receiving from Governor Arthur a free pardon, which occasioned so much delight and
excitement to the recipient as to deprive him of the power of utterance for some time
afterwards. It only remains to piece out the story of his life. Buckley was a native of
Macclesfield, where he was born in 1780. He enlisted in the Cheshire Militia, and thence
was drafted into the 4th Regiment of Infantry, known as the Kings Own. He appears to
have taken part in the inglorious Walcheren expedition, and was tried, convicted, and
sentenced to transportation for having been concerned, it is said, in a mutiny at
Gibraltar. After receiving his pardon, Buckley rendered important assistance to
Batmans party as an interpreter, and when Captain William Lonsdale was sent round
from Sydney to the infant settlement with a small detachment of the very regiment to which
"the wild white man" had formerly belonged, Buckley entered that officers
service. But, dissatisfied with the treatment he received, he quitted Port Phillip in 1837
and settled down in Van Diemens Land, where Sir John Franklin, who was then
Governor, provided him with suitable employment. There he married a widow with one
daughter, but had no children of his own. In 1852 the Government of that island bestowed a
pension of twelve pounds per annum on Buckley, to which the Victorian Government added ten
pounds, and he lived to be seventy-six years of age, his death having resulted from an
accident on the 2nd of February, 1856.
During his solitary wanderings, Buckley had discovered a cavern on the
sea shore, in which the lonely fugitive took up his abode, subsisting upon shellfish, and
gradually acquiring those habits of taciturnity and reserve which clung to him for the
rest of his life. Separated for something like a twelve month from all human intercourse,
his intellect became permanently enfeebled, and his organs of speech seemed to be
partially atrophied by disuse. When discovered by the natives, in the manner described, he
acquiesced with a dull resignation, if not a placid stupidity, in every thing they assumed
or proposed concerning him, whether by word or sign. Yet this very obtuseness of mind and
stolidity of manner wrought with them in his favour, for they accepted both as the direct
consequence and clear evidence of the transmigration of Kondak Baarwons soul
into the body of a white man, a process which, in their opinion, implied mental and
physical degeneration. The first thing which roused him from his intellectual torpor was a
feast, at which certain black men, killed in battle, were served up as the principal
dishes. Against this his emotions and his appetite alike revolted, and he severed himself
for a time from the tribe, taking with him two children a blind boy and his sister
whom he had adopted. The latter married, and the former is said to have been
murdered and eaten. Some time afterwards for Buckley had lost all memory of dates,
and the narrative of his life among the aborigines is a confused and a confusing one
occurred his first marriage, and he appears to have derived a grim satisfaction from
the fact that the wife who deserted him was speared by a lover who had been violently
incensed by the coquetry of the sable flirt. Twice only, during the lengthened period of
his association with the blacks, did some faint prospect of escape present itself. On the
first occasion an unknown vessel entered the heads and, anchored in Port Phillip. Most of
the crew landed to obtain supplies of wood and water, and in their absence a number of
natives swam to the ship and helped themselves to whatever portable articles they could
lay their hands on. When the Europeans returned and discovered their loss, they tripped
their anchor and hastily departed. Buckley endeavoured to attract their attention from the
shore, but was probably mistaken for one of the marauders and his signals were
disregarded. On another occasion, a boat was stranded in the harbour, and the two sailors
who were in it were kindly treated by the natives of his own tribe, but were afterwards
speared by those of the Yarra tribe. He had been also told by his black companions, of a
third vessel having entered Port Phillip, of a boat-load of seamen having landed, and of
two men having been tied to a tree and shot. But statements like these must be received
with a certain amount of suspicion, owing to the clouded condition of Buckleys
faculties; the man who had lost the memory of his native tongue, had naturally little
recollection of past facts. Governor Bourke, who saw him in 1837, could extract nothing
from him but a few monosyllables; Captain Lonsdale was equally unsuccessful; Mr. J. P.
Fawkner called him "a mindless lump of matter," and Mr. George Arden, who wrote
the earliest pamphlet published in the colony (1840), tells us that Buckleys extreme
reserve rendered it almost impossible to learn anything from him of his past life, or of
his acquaintance with the aborigines The last glimpse we obtain of him is in Hobart Town,
where his gigantic figure was to be seen almost daily "pacing along the middle of the
road with his eyes vacantly fixed upon some object before him, never turning his head to
either side or saluting a passer by; and seeming as one not belonging to the world."
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