The Jakarta Post, February 13, 2005
Have a 'patita' eat, drink, be merry!
Suryatini N. Ganie, Contributor, Jakarta
The Moluccas, or Maluku, a group of islands scattered in the glittering waters of
eastern Indonesia and one of the most desired destinations for those looking for fame
and riches back in the 15th century, is home to centuries-old customs that are still
practiced to this day.
One of those customs is makan patita from central Maluku. Not only in small villages
but also in larger towns, this joyful event is still very popular and brings together
families and friends.
The makan patita, or patita, is held for special events. For example, when an old
family house needs a cleansing then a cuci baleo has to be organized. Following the
cleansing, makan patita will be served to those who were so kind to assist the hosts.
Another custom, found mostly in villages, is the sasi, which is when villagers give
foodstuffs to the head of the village to donate to the church or needy people in the
village. Foods like coconuts, sago and other staples like cassava, sweet potatoes and
taro are collected and donated.
To properly serve a makan patita after a cuci baleo, numerous coconut leaves are
neatly arranged on an open space, which could be in the garden of a house or the
plaza in front of a church. Banana leaves are used to form a second layer. This will be
done after a special ceremony is conducted by the village elder or the reigning raja,
because according to the people there old houses are the dwelling places of the souls
of ancestors who still guide the village.
Placed on the mats are boiled sweet potatoes, cassava, bananas and other foods and
dishes brought by those participating. Special dishes are sagu presko (grilled sago);
papeda, a sago porridge; ketupat santan, which is cooked in coconut milk; ikan asar
(grilled fish); colo-colo, a spicy condiment; koh-kohu (see recipe); and acar kuning,
sweet and sour turmeric flavored with raw or boiled cucumber and cabbage.
Hunters from the village will also bring foods like wild pig and deer. To lessen the thirst
traditional drinks will be offered. Sageru manis, for instance, a fermented sago drink.
The village elder will sit among the villagers watching the young men and women,
juraro and mungare, dancing the lenso and singing traditional songs accompanied by
traditional musical instruments like the tifa. A makan patita could last until the wee
hours of the morning.
So, eat, drink and be merry when attending makan patita.
Speaking about the food of Maluku, it has migrated around the archipelago over the
years and so many dishes or snacks are renowned fare here. Take for instance nasi
kuning Ternate, which is today a popular dish at many events. The story goes that a
king of Ternate visited Surakarta and brought his own cook to prepare specific foods
for the royal hosts. They liked the food so much that until today the dishes are still on
the menus of many Surakarta households.
The guests from Maluku also brought with them their sweet delicacies. Bika Ambon,
a luscious honeycomb cake, is one of the best examples, but uniquely do not go to
Ambon when looking for a super bika Ambon, but go to Medan where in the
preparation process a specific raising agent is used!
Last but not least: are you on a banana diet? If so eat pisang Ambon! The bananas
from Ambon are the first fruits given to babies at the very tender age of three months.
By the way, many cookies and snacks use cassava meal. Though cassava meal is
sold at markets or supermarkets, many farmers make the cassava meal themselves.
Here is how to make cassava meal at home: Grate or thinly slice one kilogram of
fresh and clean peeled cassava roots. Dry under the sun for 48 hours, and it is better
to begin the drying process in the morning to obtain the best results. Then grind
manually or with an electric grinder. Sift and grind the coarse parts once again or until
completely ground. One kilogram of freshly grated cassava yields approximately 400
grams of cassava meal. Store in open plastic bags.
Back to makan patita. Wishing you a good time with Maluku food, drinks and
melodious songs!
RECIPES
Koh-kohu
A traditional dish from Ambon made from raw vegetables and tuna.
Ingredients: 400 g fresh tuna, cleaned 1 tsp salt or to taste 1 Tbs lime juice Charcoal,
for grilling 4 strings long beans 100 g mung bean sprouts 100 g small, round
eggplants 3 shallots 10 chili paddy, stems discarded A handful of picked kemangi
leaves 100 g grated fairly young coconut, steamed 2 Tbs lime juice 1 tsp salt or to
taste
Preparation:
1. Make 4 slices on the dorsal side of the tuna, coat with salt and lime juice. 2. Grill
over charcoal until done. 3. Remove bones and shred the fish meat. 4. Wash long
beans and cut very thinly. Remove blackish part of the sprouts and wash in hot water,
drain. Wash eggplants using same procedure and slice thinly. 5. Wash shallots and
chili paddy and slice thinly. Also wash kemangi leaves, drain. 6. Mix the shredded
tuna meat with the raw vegetables and add the steamed shredded coconut, lime juice
and salt. Let stand for 10 minutes in a cool place or in the refrigerator before serving.
(Makes 6-7 servings. Mostly served with boiled cassava or sago)
Pindang Rempah Cumi
Squid spiced with a special spice combination.
Ingredients: 500 g fresh squid 2 Tbs lime juice 4 shallots 3 cloves garlic 3 red chilies 1
tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground cumin, 1 tsp ground pepper 1 tsp fried trassi 1 slice
turmeric 2 Tbs cooking oil, for stir frying 1 slice ginger, bruised 1 slice of galangal,
bruised 3 purut lime leaves 1 screwpine leaf 100 ml water 1 tsp salt, or to taste 2 Tbs
tamarind liquid 50 g kenari nuts, peeled
Preparation: 1. Pull off tentacles and any foreign matter from the squid. Discard all the
entrails of the body and peel off the membrane from the hood. Clean and coat with
lime juice. Let stand for 15 minutes to marinate. 2. Make shallots, garlic, red chilies,
ground coriander, ground cumin, ground pepper, trassi and turmeric into a paste. Stir
fry until aromatic. Add ginger, galangal, purut lime leaves, screwpine leaf and squid.
Continue frying until squid changes color. 3. Pour in water and let come to a boil.
Season with salt, tamarind liquid and kenari nuts. Continue cooking until done.
(Makes 4 servings)
Ubi Kayu Halmahera
A sweet snack from the islands of Maluku.
Ingredients: 250 g ground sugar 40 g margarine or butter 3 hen eggs 500 g grated
cassava, liquid squeezed out 125 g grated fairly young coconut 1 tsp baking powder
200 ml milk A pinch of salt 100 g raisins 100 g peeled kenari nut, chopped 1 Tbs
margarine or butter, for greasing 1 Tbs wheat flour, for dusting
Preparation: 1. Beat sugar and margarine or butter until whitish. Add hen eggs one by
one while beating. 2. Add grated cassava, grated coconut, mix. Add baking powder,
milk, salt and raisins and 50 g chopped kenari nuts. Mix well. 3. Take a suitable pan,
grease with margarine or butter and dust with flour. Pour in the grated cassava
mixture and bake until done and rather brownish.
(Makes 6-7 servings)
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