Perak
Location and Population
Perak covers an area of 21,000 square kilometers, making it
the second largest state in Peninsular Malaysia (Pahang is
larger). The state is situated along Malaysia's western coast at
the northern approach to the Strait of Malacca. It extends deep
into the peninsula, with its eastern border marked by mountains
of the Main Range. Like Kelantan and Pahang, Perak is a state
that is defined by the course of its namesake river. Perak's
population is about two million. Until the nineteenth century,
Perak's people were concentrated along the Perak River, and the
chief city was riverside Kuala Kangsar. However, the discovery of
wondrously rich tin deposits in surrounding valleys lead to the
establishment of and transfer of the capital to Taiping and,
later, Ipoh. The tin mines around Ipoh are reputedly the richest
in the world, and it is no surprise that the city has expanded
steadily from the time the mines were discovered in the
nineteenth century. Today, Ipoh is one of Malaysia's larger
cities, with a population of about half a million people.
History
Perak is heir to the Malaysian history that came to
a close in 1511 with the capture of Malacca
by the Portuguese. The leaders of the Malaccan empire retreated
south to Johor, where they
re-established their power. The eldest son of the Sultan,
however, soon headed to the north, where he accepted an offer to
become the first sultan of Perak. Today, only Perak among the
Malaysian states possesses a royal house descended directly from
the rulers of legendary Malacca.
Despite the continuity of its royal house, Perak has one of
the most troubled histories of any Malaysian state. The discovery
of tin deposits of unprecedented richness in Perak at the middle
of the nineteenth century brought rapid prosperity as well as
considerable political turmoil. By the end of the nineteenth
century, however, Perak's situation had stabilized and its
enormous natural resources began to pay off.
Exploring Perak
Kuala Kangsar
Kuala Kangsar, located 48km north of Ipoh on the Perak River, is
the royal town of Perak. It is dominated by three beautiful
buildings: Istana Iskandariah, Istana Kenangan and the Ubudiah
mosque. The Istana Iskandariah, situated on a hill overlooking
the river, is the palace of the Sultan of Perak. Although an
imposing structure, it is of less interest architecturally than
the smaller and more beautiful Istana Kenangan, which was built
as a temporary residence during the Iskandariah's construction.
The Ubudiah mosque, begun in the late nineteenth century though
not completed until after the First World War, is a magnificently
picturesque structure topped with a constellation of bright
golden domes.
Kuala Kangsar is also the home of the Malaysian rubber
industry. It was here, in 1877, that nine rubber trees were
planted by the British resident Hugh Low, marking the arrival of
an industry would within decades vie with tin as the country's
most important export.
Taiping
Taiping succeeded Kuala Kangsar as the capital of Perak in the
late nineteenth century. Taiping was during that time the
thriving center of the tin industry in the surrounding valley. In
the 1890s, disused mining pools at the edge of town were cleverly
landscaped to form the beautiful Lake Gardens. The Gardens are
still tranquil and restorative, though this once bustling town
has become equally quiet. The country's oldest State Museum is
within the vicinity, containing artifacts such as ancient
weapons, handicrafts and aboriginal implements.
Bukit Larut (formerly Maxwell Hill)
Bukit Larut, located just 10 km from Taiping, is Malaysia's
oldest hill station. Bukit Larut is not nearly as developed as
the more celebrated Cameron and Genting
Highlands. However, it preserves much more of the atmosphere
of a colonial hill station, with modest, welcoming bungalows,
carefully cultivated gardens, and a pervasive atmosphere of cool
quietude. The hill is accessible by four-wheel drive only.
Ipoh Cave Temples
The countryside around Ipoh is studded with dramatic limestone
outcroppings, many of which are dotted with cave temples. While
many of the temples are of recent origin, cave paintings dating
back two millenia have been located at one site. The most famous
of the temples are Perak Tong and Sam Poh Tong, both built by
Chinese monks who arrived in Perak with the wave of Chinese
immigrants around the turn of the century. Perak Tong is
clustered with over forty Buddha statues, the most impressive of
which is almost 13 meters high. Sam Poh Tong, which continues to
be inhabited by a community of Buddhist monks and nuns, houses
various statues of Buddha among the cavern's natural stalactites
and stalagmites. Perak Tong lies 6 km north of Ipoh, and Sam Poh
Tong is 5 km to the south. Both shrines make pleasant stopover
visits, and at Sam Poh Tong one can enjoy lunch afterward at the
tasty vegetarian restaurant on the temple grounds.
Lumut
85 km southwest of Ipoh is the naval base town of Lumut. Of
interest here is the Naval Museum which houses a collection of
ancient weapons and historical artifacts. Lumut is also the
departure point for Perak's internationally-known
islands, Pulau Pangkor and Pulau Pangkor
Laut.
Kuala Gula Bird Sanctuary
This coastal bird sanctuary attracts a wide variety of exotic
birds, particularly during the migratory season between August
and December. Hundreds of species of birds have been sighted
here, as well as a number of fascinating mammals, the dusky leaf
monkey, smooth otter, and ridge-back dolphin among them. For
information, contact the Department of Wildlife and National
Parks, Ipoh.
River Terrapin Breeding Project
Located at Bota Kanan, 40km from Ipoh, the project breeds
hatchling river terrapins, or Bataqur baska, which are then
released into the Perak River. Between November and March,
visitors can watch river terrapins lay their eggs along the
river's shore. Chalets are available.
Banding Resort
Midway along the East-West Highway is Temenggur Lake, formed by
the the construction of the magnificent Temenggur dam. Set atop
an island in the lake is the Banding Resort, a small facility
offering basic accomodations and outstanding fishing. The Bandung
area is slated for tourist development in the near future, but at
the moment the Bandung Resort continues to be a lovely retreat.
Kellie's Castle
The rubber industry grew with extreme rapidity in Malaysia at the
beginning of the century, and as one would expect it attracted
all sorts of fortune-seekers. One of the most successful of these
was William Kellie Smith, a Scot who decided modestly to mark his
success by constructing a magnificent castle. As is so often and
so romantically the case with such grand gestures, Kellie died
before the castle was completed. Equally to be expected is the
fact that this mysterious ruin of a half-built castle is even
more lovely for being unfinished. The castle stands enigmatically
among Kellie's old lands and is visible across the river a few
miles along the road from Ipoh to Batu Gajah. Visitors wishing to
stroll around this gothic scene can take a sampan across the
river or arrange for a tour from Ipoh.